Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Ash. Try having a look at the 'IAT Fuel Correction', as this was a feature that is new and could be adding fuel to the map thinking the intake air is colder than it actually is. It's found under Fuel/IAT Fuel Correction... Turn the state of this to OFF to prove it, as this would not have been operating on the G3 base. Jurgen.

Hi Brett. I have attached a photo that should explain it (as a picture is worth 1000 words) You will note the drop down selection allowing for soft, hard, AND soft & hard cut. The hard limit addition is there only when 'soft and hard' is selected. In this example photo the engine will hard cut 200RPM after it does a soft cut. The table shows temperature and you fill out what you would like your limit to be at these specific engine temps. A soft cut feels like an engine cut, and will most likely be enough unless you really need it. As the hard cut feels like you hit a brick wall. Your call on that one. In effect it only needs turning on or adjusting, and this should give you enough ammo to do it yourself. All you need is a USB printer cable to connect to that ECU, and to download and install this software that this link takes you to (free). http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLinkV3_40 If you are at all not sure about doing this - Please see your tuner! http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac236/linkelectro/G3_limits.jpg

Hi James. As you are most probably aware the G3 can only do boost solenoid DC by Gear, TPS or Boost Adjust (0-5v) vs. RPM. Unfortunately, this is the full extent of your problem really. The only solution currently is not to boost by gear. Closed loop boost will rectify this situation, but this is still a little way off. If you are really needing to boost by gear, upgrading to G4 firmware is potentially the best solution for you. The reason being is you can span almost anything against anything on the G4 platform if it makes sense to. By having your boost control table as gear vs. MAP, things start to look a little more achievable with what your trying to do. The only thing is you cannot give it a DC against the RPM if it's done this way. Jurgen

Hi Daniel. Short answer is , yes, it could be used (providing it is distributed and not multi-coil). Longer answer is really speaking you would benifit greatly from using a full ECU. The TurboLink only intercepts the ignition wire going to the ignitor, and makes ignition timing changes from there (obviously with the signal already outputted from the factory ECU it can only retard timing). It also is a bit hit and miss whether even that can be done as a lot of manufactures have feedback from the igniter. Hondas were OK, but I don't know about the Toyota. If this is the case though, you might end up with something worse off than where you are. It takes in ignition, MAP and RPM, and zones can be programmed to allow for you to add extra fuel with "additional injectors" only, it will not use your existing injectors (unless you have a 5th). Then the next problem is you may need an FCD or worse still your may have a MAP activated cut in your factory ECU. Personally I wouldn't go there, but if it's cheap and you have the time to spend on something that may not potentially work for you then I suppose you could try it. My advice would be to make sure all of the above mentioned checks out before you buy it. Jurgen

Hi Daniel. For some reason it sounds as though a lot of fuel is being dumped in when your lifting off. I would imagine it just needs a good tune, but if it has been running fine, it's a bit odd it does it now. Most likely your over run fuel cut is not turned on... It would make sense, as this cuts the injectoin when the engine is under a certain vacuum value. On the G4. Personally I would re-wire the whole thing as Link uses new lightweight AVSS wire (a lot thinner and nicer to work with). If you didn't want to go that route, you don't have to, but it would look less hacked up if you re-wired it with the new loom (included in the G4 kit when bought). You will still have to wire a few things up, as the G1's didn't have any AN VOLT channels, and there will be other features you will want to use and wire, so at the end of the day, I'm going to not recommend anything other than a re-wire. For the purposes of answering the question though, you will have to add on a few wires minimum, chop of the old plug, mate a short loom (G4 optional) to the old and off to the tuner. Just a bit messy this way and hard to fault find with different colour wires. Jurgen

Hi Tim. We don't specifically have a fully tuned map for the 1UZ, however I know the reload numbers on the G1 will give you a reasonable start up map for the standard 1UZ. Please be warned, it is NOT fully tuned. Jurgen

Hi Phil. Yes this is a dedicated G1 plug in ECU for EVO 4-6. As far as connecting to it goes, these were never able to be PC tuned, nor is there an upgrade available for it to do so. The only way to connect to this particular device is by using the hand controller, of which Link do not make/have any more. You have to have luck on your side these days to get a hold of one, so if you do... Never let it out of your sight or sell it. Jurgen

Hi Daniel. It is usually the prefered method to tune across MAP, however TPS can be used if you have very unstable idle due to individual throttle bodies and turbulent air flow. If you have just a single intake then I would be using MAP, as it represents the LOAD more accurately than a TPS position allowing for the correct AFR to be more easily met under any LOAD conditions. If you were to tune 40% TPS @ 4000RPM to give you 14.5AFR cool. But what happens when you are in a different gear with 40% TPS @ 4000RPM. The MAP LOAD is much different. The new G4 systems allow you have your whole ECU map tuned against MAP, and then to switch over to TPS at lower RPM for those tricky individual throttle bodies. Quite a nice feature. I hope this explains the reasons well enough. Good luck with the tune. Jurgen

Hi Sanford. If nothing has been changed on the vehicle or ECU recently, then you can bet your bottom dollar something mechanical is going on. Maybe the throttle plate has closed a little over time. This can happen when the spring looses tension and/or there is no lock nut on it. I'm guessing myself here really as it coul;d be a number of things that affect it. You'd probably be better off seeing your tuner about it. If the IAT is faulty (if you run one), it could be sending a voltage to the ECU suggesting it is has really hot intake temps and this will pull fuel out of the equation. It could be a large number of things, and the best thing would be to pop down to your tuner and have a good old chat with him to see what they think. Jurgen

Hi Karl. This is a dedicated V3-4 WRX plug in, and the R is one of the ones that can natively be PC tuned by a laptop. Features and further info can be read in the manual available here... http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g1-engine-management-documentation/MY96Manual Jurgen.

Hi Nick. This is a G1 style LEM with dedicated Subaru EJ25 firmware (will also suit an EJ20). Unfortunately this cannot be PC tuned (connect to a laptop). It can be upgraded to a V5 which would be PC tuneable, please contact [email protected] for a price. If you upgraded it, you would need to buy the SerialLink to connect to it. Only other option to tune it as it is, would be to use a hand controller. Only Link no longer make/have these. They are quite hard to come by these days, you have to have luck on your side. Jurgen

Hi Meirion. These were a dedicated MX5 type plug in and should suit the other car if the plugs are the same (main header on the loom). As this is a 4 plug, and lets say your new car has a 2 plug, there is no way this is going to work for you. In short, if the plug fits you will just need to test all of the functions to see if the ISC pin goes to the ISC, the fuel pump does go to the fuel pump and so on. I hope this helps. Jurgen

Hi Kyle. If you take the lid off the unit you will see a small circuit board on top of the main one (called a sub-board). This needs to be set up correctly. It sounds as though the ECU is missing it's sync pulse (hence those errors). When cranking the engine, you want to look at the LED next to one of the rotary dials on the sub-board (set that dial to zero to begin). As you crank the engine (with injectors disconnected so it wont fire), the LED will flash. Turn this dial up the scale and watch the LED get dimmer and dimmer. Wait for it to stop flashing completely (shade it as it can look like it's not flashing, but is, just really dimmly). Then click it back one click... For that engine it will probably land around 'B' somewhere. You have now set up your widest slot correctly, which is directly responsible for the sync pulse to be seen at the right time by the ECU. See how you go with that and let me know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Stephen. This is one of those times that more info would be good. I am assuming at this stage you have a GEN 1 SW20 Turbo. There are a few paths we could go down, but are there anymore clues? Knowing if you are rich/lean at this point would help a lot... Do you have an AFR reading hooked up at all? Are there miss fires, is it BANG ON 4100RPM every time. Does the power fall away in a snap, or over a few seconds? Anything you think may help... Jurgen Previously stephen miles wrote: I have an MR2 running G1 when it reachs 4100 rpm the power just dramatically falls away.The boost presure and fuel and ignition timing are all correct, Any body got any idears

Hi Bob. The easy answer to Mass Air tuning is it cannot be done on any of our older type ECU's. What would be helpful is any sort of identification that you can give us. Is it a plug in or an LEM, V3, 4, 5, Link Plus or otherwise? You will be looking for stickers on chips and possibly on the outside of the enclosure if it a wire in model. We just need a little more to go on to suggest anything useful for you. Jurgen

Hi Brad. Assuming your tacho on the dash only needs a 'low level' input meaning it uses a very small voltage, it will be no problem at all. Low level is most likely the case for you and most common by the standards in a Japanese car. By trying it you cannot harm your tacho or ECU so don't be too concerned there. Seeing as you are only using 1 of the 3 ignition channels available with the distributed set up, a feature in the firmware will allow you to set ignition channel '3' as a tacho or a shift light. The ECU IG3 wire is Blue/White and is the 4th pin along to the left of the tag on the BIG plug. This will be wired to your tacho input wire (will only be one to this in the dash), and using a hand controller go to 'Configuration' and set IG3=Tacho. Alternatively if you have the SerialLink to connect to the ECU with your PC, this setting is found on the main config screen labeled 'IGN3 Mode'. See here for the manuals available - http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g1-engine-management-documentation And this will download the correct PCLink software to program the ECU - http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLinkV25 Jurgen

Forgive me if you have mentioned it in this post before James, but what version of firmware are you using? Jurgen

Hmmm. I haven't forgotten about this. Let me dig a little deeper for you and see what I can come up with. Jurgen.

It's just a time thing Matt. After performing the upgrade, a reload of factory settings is imperative as part of the process, and needless to say, so is saving your map BEFORE you start. After the upgrade and reload, the time consuming thing is manually setting it all up again. Not too bad in reality, as long as you follow the process. You CANNOT just load the old map up because there are memory addressing changes in the background you have no control over. However to make it easier you can keep PCLink 3.5 open (with your saved map from G3 vers. open in it), as well as PCLink 4.4.x (connected to the ECU). Yes they can both be open at the same time, but only one connected. Fuel and ignition wise, as long as you set up the axis in all of those tables exactly the same (rows and columns), you will be able to copy and paste the numbers across in one hit pretty much, eliminating the need for a 're-tune'. The super important thing will be to MANUALLY set up all your DI's, AUX's and other functions using the old map as a reference only. Note that what was labeled as AN LOAD 1, 2 and 3, on the G3 is now called AN VOLT 1, 2, and 3 on the G4 firmware. And in turn AN VOLT 1, 2 and 3 on the G3 will now be AN VOLT 4, 5 and 6... 4, 5 and 6 now 7, 8 and 9 and so on. Hence, it is considered time consuming Jurgen

Hi Peter. Did you manage to get David to look at the .PCL file? I would also be keen to take a look if you would like to email it our way. I assume you are using 'Closed Loop' ISC? If so, one thing to consider using Closed Loop is that it uses the open loop values as a reference, then adjusts toward idle speed target RPM's in the table. The G4 can make excessive corrections to meet the target idle and cause hunting if Open Loop isn't tuned first. Although I am sure you have done so, the fuel/ignition tables in these zones must also have been completed in regards to the tune. Let me know if this has been covered or how you get on, and if you still want to send your map through to us, you can send it to [email protected]. As a reference, be sure to add this link in to your email for us (http://www.linkecu.com/forum/forums/G4Forum/617287098). Jurgen

Good call Matt H! All I can say is the last one we sold was approximately a year ago. All the parts for these are now completely exhausted and it is possible there are some suppliers out there with some stock still on the shelf. Thanks for the update. If anyone does know of a supplier that still holds stock, please let us know as it would be good to be able to direct people to them. It is a common question, and would really help some people out. PS. Chris, I take it from your login. My apologies for confusing the newun terminology with your name, I now realise you meant newbie of sorts I hope you manage to get one of the hand controllers. Jurgen

Hi Jim. The Link 2ch ignitor is always what I would recommend, however by the looks of the ignitor wiring attached it will not work with our system anyway. Long story short, this ignitor will want to control the dwell time itself (smart ignitor), and the Link ECU needs to be able to control the dwell. A 3 wire ignitor is all the Link system will need. Jurgen

Hi Chris. Yes definately a G1 V4 LEM, and most definately is that tacho needing a hig level input. I hear you with the difficulty of making this work with the mutli-coils though, and in all honesty the cheapest solution for you to make this work will be to get a low level driven tacho. Really it's your best option. You can get the SerialLink from Link still as they are always stocked, email [email protected] for a price and availability. For documentation on this ECU, this link should just open the manual on line for you... Click "Save a copy" to put it on your hard drive for future reference. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g1-engine-management-documentation/lemv4manual Jurgen

Hi Chris. The folowing info is assuming the unit is a G1 LEM V4. If you have a distributed set up, you use ignition 3 as your tacho output and set up under configuration/Ignition 3 as tacho.If you are running wasted spark, all 3 ignition channels will be used up. In this case the ECU would have to have a small modification to enable the RPM switch as the tacho output (if it's not needed to run anything else)All of these options are only designed to run a low level tacho. You cannot run the tacho if it is a high level FULL STOP.If none of this suits, you will have to either get a different tacho to suit one of the options above or drive it directly from a coil negative on the actual coil. Jurgen

Hi Ash. The G3 cannot do this unfortunately, however you could update the ECU with G4 firmware at a cost. This will enable quite a few good features and flexibility, and give you G4 firmware downloads for free which will have new stuff coming out all the time. Here is an example pic of how you would set up the G4 to do this with one of the new features recently released "additional GP limit tables". These can be spanned over almost anything, and effectively gives you what you need. http://i903.photobucket.com/albums/ac236/linkelectro/dual_map_limit.jpg Jurgen