Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Joseph. PCLink 3.4 that you would be using, already has a couple of maps for this engine in the base maps folder. They are not fully tuned, they are designed to run an engine to drive on to a dyno or trailor kind of thing. I would never advise to drive on these really, so it's up to you what you do with this information. There are a few variations with this engine too, so just check all of your I/O's are responding correctly if you do use one of these. Jurgen

Hi Giovanni. What Dtech says is correct, the only real way to do this would be connect to the ECU with PCLink, and then the map you want to compare, open this in another session of PCLink (yes, you can have two open at once). The Hex tool you are using is not a very good way to do what you are trying to achieve. Once you have both maps open in different PCLink's, you just need to ALT+TAB between them quickly for the best comparison. Jurgen

Hi Keith. If your still trying to wrap your head around it, Kristian has pretty much nailed the question well. Below are links to the two manuals available depending on what type of G3 you have. G3 LEM - http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g2-g3-engine-management-documentation/LEMG3 G3 Link Plus - http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g2-g3-engine-management-documentation/LinkPlusG3 Jurgen

Hi Jeremy. Rod is on the money with that one. I have had a look at the datasheet of this chip and it would work very well for your purpose. Super easy to understand the logic, and has 2 in/outs... So you could do another PWM signal too For your info, attached is a small block diagram that I looked at. Jurgen

Hi Joseph. PCLink 3.4 that you would be using, already has a couple of maps for this engine in the base maps folder. They are not fully tuned, they are designed to run an engine to drive on to a dyno or trailor kind of thing. I would never advise to drive on these really, so it's up to you what you do with this information. There are a few variations with this engine too, so just check all of your I/O's are responding correctly if you do use one of these. Jurgen

Hi Brendon. Sorry for the very late reply to this post. You could just send it in to us at the following address. Things tend to get lost in the post, so I will recommend sending it by DHL or similar. Launch is possible, and the cost will not be that dramatic. Email [email protected] for pricing. Link ElectroSystems 1 Bridle Path Road Heathcote Valley Christchurch 8022 New Zealand Jurgen

Hi Daniel. Try downloading the improved PCLink with the new logging built in to 4.6.7.738 (maybe that is what you have i'm not sure), it's excellent! I don't know if it includes what you are after, as I am not quite sure what you are trying to do. Did you want to 'trim' like a video editing program so you can remove irrelivant data (cropping)? Any other examples, or another peice of logging software with this feature as an example would be good, just so we can see exactly what you think we are missing. I think the cropping idea is something already coming in the future, but I can't promise that. Jurgen

Hi Michael. She is an old girl alright... We would all say 'museum piece', however if it is working, and your VW isn't meant to be anything more special than a daily driver it should do the trick. The sub/daughter-board you described inside is to decode the triggering, so clearly on a MK1 VW you're going to need to sort out a trigger system for it. The sub board you have in there currently will do 1 tooth/TDC, which means to you you will at least need a 4 toothed trigger wheel (and sensor to suit) on the cam as Trig1 or 2 teeth on the crank. Trig 2 you will not need to worry about in this case. Assuming that you are sticking with a distributor. And that's about it really. Make sure you have an ECT sensor at minimum and you should be away! You will also need an ignitor to drive the ignition system too... This will perform the job of the contacts in the distributor. Jurgen

Sorry for taking so long Adam, glad you have it sorted. What chip was it?

Hi Ron. No problem there (except for the lappy of course). Once you plug in and connect to the ECU, you will be able to go to File/Save, and save your map that exists in there. V5 will give you the ability to input an air intake temp sender signal, however it will depend on the version of circuit board you have. If you have the 4port AUX plug next to the tuning port you can do it... If not then you cannot. G4 can do it all Jurgen

Hi Brendon. This could be the typical symptoms and lead up symptoms to dry solder joins on either the tuning port header, main header, micro, or all three. Sometimes the ribbon cable can give grief depending on it's historical treatment. In short it could be either device causing this. If you know someone proficient in electronic servicing, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have them re-solder everything on the board that looks slightly un-toward. Or if you like, you can send them both in to us (most recommended), and we can just give it a good old service and test everything at the same time. Jurgen

Hi Andy. Probably the best way to describe this would be as follows: You have 10secs Spray Period & 15% DC. In short this means 15% of the 10secs water will be flowing, and for the remaining 85% of the 10secs, it will rest (no spray). Then it starts the cycle again... 15% of the time on, 85% of the time it will rest and so on. If set to resume it will carry on the cycle from where it left off when the conditions are met again, and in contrast the reset option will start it from the beginning of the cycle when conditions are met again. Why you would want to do this with a PWM table makes no real sense (if you are actually using the function for IC Sprayer that is). The reason being, DC of the IC Spray function will for example turn of for 50% of the time, and then on for 50% of the time if DC is set to 50%. You need this with this function as the idea is to spray it, then stop and allow the evaporation take care of the cooling, then it's hit again and so on. Using the PWM table is probably not ideal, unless I don't completely understand what you are trying to do, as 50% DC in this table means on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off very quickly to achieve an overall 50% (like a boost solenoid). This in effect would drive the water sprayer 100% of the time, but at 1/2 speed. This does not allow time for the Spray to evaporate, in turn giving you an inefficiant method of intercooler 'cooling'. I hope that answers your question. Jurgen

Hi Michael. Attached is a photo of the CAN05 labled with the appropriate tags. The Rx (recieve) should go to the Tx (transmit) of the Racepack dash, and Tx to the Rx of the dash. Gnd will go to Gnd of course. Dynolink (your nearest distributor) have these available, and could have it before the week is out I would imagine. Let me know if you have no luck, but I think this should get you sorted. Pinouts for the Racepac dash will have to be obtained from it's supplier as I do not have this information. Jurgen

I see what you are asking now. Cyclic idle is not something that is designed to be switched on/off manually. There is no need for this option. Why would you not turn off your anti-lag between stages? I have attached some before and after pictures for you to consider. Let me know if this would resolve your problem. The only thing is anything referenced to Virtual AUX2, will now have to refer to Virtual AUX1 as I have combined the two virtuals you had set up to Cond1 OR Cond2 logic on V AUX1. This example should allow you to drive under 3000RPM without anti-lag turning on, but it will activate immediately after exceeding 3000RPM (and this will be with the AL switch DI3 still turned on). I would be inclined to activate the E-Throttle target table column '0' also off DI3 as you will only need the air bleed when cyclic idling, which in turn will only operate when in AL mode. If this is all in aid of cooling your engine down between stages, there is a new feature soon to be released, dedicated to this need. Please be patient while I try to understand your situation more clearly. Jurgen

Hi Scott. We have always advised running an IAT sensor. Steve in effect is correct though, as air density is measured by the MAF, and in turn temperature is effecting the air density. Where you start to run in to annoying little things is Accel fueling and the likes. Link has always recommended MAP as the best option to tune the load axis off, as currently MAF on the load axis on accel fuel, and a couple of other fine trims are extremely difficult to get right. In short, any of these little trims that ensure a smooth get up and go may suffer if just using the MAF. I hope that makes sense. Jurgen

How did this go guys... Sorted? And just to confirm, you're not just trying to load your G3 map in to the newly upgraded G4 firmware? This can create no end of problems. Jurgen

Cool. Take it you found you can load layout files? Nice thing with this is when you help someone else out, you can load your layout off a USB key or something you carry around with you, and PCLink now looks like it is set up the way YOU like it Jurgen

Ok... I can at least say I tried. The short and simple answer is; this cannot be done. Jurgen

Hi Chris. This sounds so interesting I have to try it on the bench... I am going to bash it out to see if this will work, because honestly, no one has ever asked... And now I want to know On the inverted question, this may be more of an ask, as it will be software related. In saying that, it can't hurt to ask Watch this space... It may take a couple days. Jurgen

Hello Sir. At first glance, it looks as though you you have set things up OK in your map. I did note you have DI3 as your control channel though, not DI6). In any case however, if there is no air being bled in to the engine, the RPM will be relatively stable, so the result is cyclic idle will not feel the need to control the idle speed. There is one very important piece of information I am missing. Can you confirm if this is using an E-Throttle (fly by wire) throttle plate or not? If not, my guess is that you have not put a stop-screw in place to allow air to be bled in to the engine (cable type throttle only). If you are running fly-by-wire, the story is a little different. Confirm your type of throttle control, and we can go things from there. Jurgen

Hi Ron. You will not be able to use the latest PCLink to do this, however we do have available to download, all of the PCLink software programs applicable throughout our range of ECU's. From the description you have given, it is not clear what you have, however from what you have said it will be one of the following. If the colour of the box is silver and black OR has a 9pin serial looking tuning port, download this one... http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLinkV3_40 If the colour of the box is green and white AND has a 14pin recessed tuning port, download this one... http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLinkV25 Jurgen

Excellent... Cheers for the update. Jurgen

^ +1 Sounds logical. Relay switching the start wire (assuming it is carrying the starting current else no relay needed), and then a spare AUX (maybe an unused ignition channel under AUX Outs - Ign), and select it as a GP Output with one or more switching conditions. One of them set as RPM>650, and so on. Jurgen .

Hi Michael. Easy answer really is if it's going to be sequential, it will need a cam driven sensor. Alternatively, you could give it a second crank trigger and just tell the ECU where it's located. This way the ECU will treat it as if it was running at half speed. Fact of the matter, you will still need Trig1 and Trig2 operational. We have our master distributor in the UK, contact them to purchase the upgrade: Thor Racing [email protected] Tel: +44 1676 535 888 It can all be done by yourself, as it comes with instructions. It's not your usual upgrade though, so you will have to follow it to the letter. Not so bad for you as there will not be a map to jam back in to it. You just supply them with your serial number, and they will provide you with the code to upgrade it. Jurgen

Hi. This unit is perfect for a little 4AGE, however it sounds as though the sub-board may need changing. The 20v will have a trigger pattern not suited to them current sub-board installed. Email [email protected] for a price on this. Jurgen