Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Shawn. With a plug and pin kit, or a new loom you'll be away laughing. You will however need a sub-board change, so just email [email protected] for a price. Just be aware the type of sub-board you require are very rare now. Jurgen

Hi Rob. Definately a G1 V5 LEM. SUB24NEW is the best sub-board for this application, and the firmware (D42V5E) is the second to last version of firmware for these. The last version 'F' was only for the V5 with the 4port AUX plug on it, so if you don't have that you prety much have that thing as up to date as you can. Jurgen

That would be about 6Khz on an old KnockBlock. Jurgen

Hi Gustaf. I have had a look at your map and only have a couple of suggestions so far. I note that you have ANVOLT10 & 11 both set to FP main!? This FP (foot position) should not exist as a selection if there is no e-throttle present (which I am assuming is the case given e-throttle is set to off). If you did have e-throttle, there certainly should never be 2 'FP main' selected. Turn these to off, as it may play a part in the overun problem. Also, I would highly recommend (very highly) downloading the latest PCLink (this is now 4.5.1.582). There are a few fixes in there that may be able to assist you with these things. Download it... And the first thing you should do in PCLink is go to 'ECU Controls' and 'Firmware update' (with ECU plugged in of course). Of course it is very easy for overun not to work if your TPS is not spanned correctly. For example your TP/FP threshold is set to 1%. If not spanned accurately, when the TPS is at it's closed position (backing off for overun to kick in), it may only be coming back to 2% for example. Overun will not activate in this situation. Here is a direct link to the download: http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLink%20V4.5.1.582%20Setup.exe Let me know how you go if successfull or not. Jurgen

^^ +1 Jurgen

Hi Jimmy. I would imagine it is one of a couple of things, although there is potentially two things happning. My best guess is that you are using a com port above 10 for the USB connection. This would explain why the ECU would connect OK with PCLink, but not when doing a FW update. Try setting it up using a port number below 10 (port 1-9). If this works, cool, I imagine it would. However there has been the odd person experience issues with the new USB driver (this was the second potential thing). If PCLink is disconneting from the ECU regularly, it may be the new drivers (but could be other stuff - We'll start with this easier less time consuming approach first). I would recommend rolling these back to the older version to knock out any concerns you might have with the disconnections and the new drivers. What is the OS you are using? '98, XP, MS W7 etc? As a general rule, any Link brand communications should be set up to work with a com port below 10. Let me know how you get on. Jurgen

Steve, please tell me what you are trying to do. There may be another way to do this. I have two ideas, but are highly dependant on what you have in place and what you are trying to achieve. I take it this is a G4? Jurgen

Hi Steve. I believe your wish is going to be granted... Not right away, there are other priorities that we must consider. As Rachael Hunter once said "It won't happen over night, but it will hapen". Jurgen

Mounting your second sensor to the cylinder head is not ideal, as the signal tends to be a little quieter. For you to perform a fool proof test, I would mount a known good working sensor with new wiring and confirmed continuity. But mount this in the factory sensor location and only have that one. The possibility of the KnockBlock being faulty is there but rare as you say, it can be considered legitimately if you have tried everything else though. If you would like you could send it in to Link to be tested. There will be a small charge for this, but not horendous. Email [email protected] for a quote. If the unit has been sitting around for a long period of time, It may be a prudent idea to check any plugs and pins in the mix. Looking for corrosion or bad connections (failed crimps or solder joints). The switch that shows the frequencies 6kHz, 7.5kHz, and 9kHz, for the SR I would suggest it to be in it's first position of 6kHz if it is not there already. Let us know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Mitch. Our software is of a proprietary nature, so will only tune Link ECU units. However if you are trying to play with the factory ECU you need to download something like 'Open ECU' (freebie) or another I can't remember the name of (not a freebie - Pay for it). I hope this helps. Jurgen

Hi Eivind. I have the following information. This is correct for the MAP sensor used in the 5bar Link type external MAP module. 5bar MAP Sensor (capable of 7bar) 0.5V = 52kPa 4.5V = 676kPa This is a linear scale, so anything above or below this should be easy to figure out. Jurgen

PS. The address to send the map to is [email protected]. I can retrieve it from there. Jurgen

Hi Jonny. Link only does full replacement ECU's for vehicles. I feel this may not be the thing you are after. Please contact [email protected] for pricing and availability. Jurgen

Hi Pat. Can you confirm (ie. You have checked) if the plugs and leads are a resistive type? Please tell me what the car is, and ECU type you are using. Common causes for this sort of thing are usually to do with excessive electrical noise from the engine bay, caused by resistive plugs and leads not in place, or wiring issues (earthing in general). Another idea is to try another cable, as you seem to have a consistant problem by the sounds of things, and have not mentioned trying another. Is it always the same type of car you are doing (eg. are you an EVO specialist)? Have you tried a serial tuning cable? The one other thing I can think of is the latest G4 USB driver, as there is a known issue with this. If you installed the driver that came with the new PCLink 4.5.x, there is a high potential for it to drop off regularly. My suggestion there would be to roll back the driver to the previous version through your MS Windows device manager. Let us know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Chris. To give you some more definition to this, we consider the following as high and low impedance... More than 6ohms = High Impedance : Less than 6ohms = Low Impedance As Steve suggests, you will only need ballasting on low impedance injectors, as they do not have enough resistance. Some resistance in the circuit is needed, or the injector will draw to much current through the injection drivers, resulting in over working and damaging them. Jurgen

Cool. Glad to hear it has all worked out for you. Jurgen

Fantastic! Thanks for the feedback Nick.

Hi Esa. We don't have the deadtimes unfortunately. If you cannot find them, typically if you are starting out the tune from scratch, it will be OK to use the Link defaults. Anyone else out there have them? Jurgen

Hi Rod. This sort of thing is usually done with the ignition map, so just treat is as though you would be tuning a multicoil type application. With the dizzy however, there will be a mechanical limitation. If you try and advance or retard the timing too much, you could end up with cross fire if the adv/ret is too close to the next dizzy post. It's very dizzy dependant, and you would certainly know when you go too far one way or the other. Do I understand your question correctly? Jurgen

Hi Esa. That is perfectly OK. If the original wiring showed the MAF going to ANVOLT2, and you have removed this so the wiring is now redundant. Just go to the ANVOLT2 channel within PCLink and set that up as 'Knock (0-5V)'. This is the 0-5v signal out of the KnockBlock and in to the ECU to represent the level of knock. Jurgen

Hi Gustaf. Yes the best thing to do would be to send me the map and I will have a quick look at it. Is your ECU storing any fault codes currently? And have the ANVOLT vs. ANLOADS all been considered? Because what was ANVOLT1 will now be ANVOLT4 etc. Jurgen

Hi Julian. Has ANY work been done on the vehicle at all, wether it be the most minor change you can think of. Engine body or otherwise. Jurgen

We have never come across this at any stage Tom, I am quite intetrested in the outcome. Anyone who has bought one of these has not had any immobilisatoin issues that I have heard of. Are you just being super careful before buying the ECU, or are you convinced it is a problem somehow, as you have tried the Link and it immobilises your car? Jurgen

Hi Bart. What you are reading on the ANTEMP2 channel, is 5v because there is a pull up to 5v on that channel (not a fault, it's working correctly). The error on ANTEMP2 is very indicitive of not having a TEMP sender on the end of that line. If you do have one on the end, it is faulty. ANTEMP3 also has a pull up, hence 5v there, however my guess is the fault values are set to ignore the error (0v and 5v as the low and high = Disable error code throwing for that channel). To cover that off, there is a very low potential for there to be a fault/short circuit. When nothing is connected to the TEMP channel in question it should be set to off. With your next issue, ANVOLT4 has either floated to ground as you have no +ve voltage on that line, or something is grounding it. Have you cleared you error codes from the ECU and PCLink, you may be looking at stored errors that do not physically exist anymore? With your MAP sensor Bart, I would guess that you may not have selected the correct calibration to use on that channel. If you are using the factory sensor, I would be selecting the MAP sensor type as 'Subaru (V1-6)' This is a drop down just underneath the selection of MAP sensor on the applicable ANVOLT channel. Let us know how you get on. Jurgen

Hello Gustaf. You are correct, this has been removed temporarily. It will return to the software when it has been developed a bit more. It will come back some time in the future. Jurgen