Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Louis. There are a couple of Nissan base maps in the 'Base Maps' folder when PCLink is installed. This might be what you are after. These are not tuned maps, but rather start up maps (they are designed for a factory injectors and so on though). Good enough to drive on to a trailor or dyno, but not to thrash around the block with. Once you have tested all the in/outs with the test on function to prove all is wired OK, set your base timing and triggering etc... A quick twiddle on the master fuel number should see you start up alright. Jurgen

Hi Steve. Unfortunately, this is the nature of open loop as you are well aware, but it can be smoothed out some. If you haven't already, you could increase the rows/columbs and decrease the size of the jumps between zones in DC on the BC table. This will help stopping it over shooting too much. My understanding is that closed loop will be released in the next firmware update, so that will be a massive plus! Jurgen

Wish we could help Daniel. Good luck in your event when you have it sorted! Jurgen

Hi Chris. Definately a G1, but I am thinking it might be WRXROADQ? If this is the case, it is PC Tuneable (Q) and Shock Horror... For a WRX I am assuming this is a plug in? 775 is the unlock code and 553 i'm a bit stuck on. In short it's a G1 WRX plug in that is PC tuneable. Tell me how many plugs it has and i'll give you an idea what version it was for too. Jurgen

Hi Gustaf. Create your own custom logging tab as you see fit. I have just tested this on the bench and the following is what you do to achieve your goal. Log what it is that is relevant to you. Whilst connected to the ECU you are tuning, you can push the logging play button and view the play back in your logging tab, and flick to and from the relevant tabs to edit the table/settings (could be on the same tab if desired). But now I write this, I realise this is probably what you were talking about. Unfortunately play back does not happen by taking control of the crosshairs on the table anymore (I think this is what you are looking for?) This will be coming back in a slightly different way, but regardless, will be coming back. No promises as to when it will come back in the future, because it is a relitively low priority at this time vs. important features to work on ahead of this. I hope this answers your question, as it's is the best we can do at this stage. Jurgen

Hi Josh. We aren't aware of any sensors that do do this. I think really by the time your oil is at 130degC you should be pretty much shutting your engine down anyway, so that maybe a good reason as to why these can't be found. Good luck on your search. Jurgen

Hello Gustaf. That's a great idea... I'll put this on to the engineers to discuss! Jurgen

Hi Frank. I must say first of all there is not going to be an immediate answer, and we will have to go through a few logical steps to get this working for you. For the first step, can you pleae lift the lid off the unit and take a photo of the sub-board for us. Please make sure the photo is of reasonable quality, and in focus (eg. Camera photo, not your phone). This way we can determine what you have decoding the triggering and we will be able to feel a little more sure of the advice we give. Jurgen

Hi Scott. What year/version is the Subaru, and most importantly, what is it... There are at least 4 - 5 header plug types that cover Subaru. Is it a dirty old BG5, or is it a WRX, STi, Spec C, etc. I would contact Link on [email protected] for pricing and availability. Jurgen

To clear things up a little for you Matt, the 24-1 + Sync is handled just fine with the G4 trigger pattern choices. Obviously you'll want to double check this is actually the correct pattern. Jurgen

Hi Ryan. This is why there are proffessionals. Every change you make has an effect on something else, and only experience can show you that. It sounds like what you are trying to do, and the way you are going about it seems logical... I am impressed with your efforts thus far. Every engine tuner has been through their phase of trying and failing, but got there in the end... My advice is to give it a go if you are comfortable with the risks, or take it to a proffessional tuner if you are unsure. I must admit, it's the safer end of the RPM range so why not give it a go! The AFR, ECT and IAT's are the thing you should most definately keep an eye on at all times! Let us know how you get on.

Hi Crris. Is the G3 wired in, or is it using a plug in AdapterLink of sorts? Jurgen

Hello Frank. Can you confirm the polarity of the reluctor sensors? Quite often a reversed polarity can cause no end of problems. Also ensure that you have the crank signal going to Trig1 and cam signal going to Trig2. The sync/cyl ratio should be set to 6, as it is a 6 cylinder with the sync off the cam (it would be 3 if your sync was also on the crank). We'll look a bit deeper while you get back to us and confirm that. Jurgen

Hi Alex. 1. Start with trying your filter levels on 'Level 1' unless you have the need later on when you are tuning it. 2. Sync mode should be set to 'CAM PULSE 1x' According to the info I got from one of my Toyota's wiring wise, G- is the negative side of the reluctors, NE is the 24tooth crank trigger, G1 is the 4tooth trigger and G2 is cam pulse. So if you have it set up as 24/1 you will need to use NE (crank or trig1), G2 (cam or trig2) and G- as your signal ground (goes to ground out on the ECU). It looks like (by the info I have) you are running 4/1 meaning you may need to select 1 tooth/TDC trigger mode. Just check inside your CAS to see that you actually are running 24 tooth by counting them up on the chopper wheel inside, as 4 tooth was an option on these with the earlier engines (GZE always ran 24 tooth). Let me know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Steve. You are correct, the E85 sensor has now been included. When you connect the 'Raw' signal to a digital input. The following information can now be used as an axis in a Fuel Adjustment table. · E85 % Ethanol - this is a measure of the percentage of ethanol within the measured fuel. · E85 Temperature - this is a measure of the fuel temperature.

Hi Brian. Thanks for the feedback, we are getting a really good response so far, but I suppose it's quite hard to not like it. I have been playing with it all weekend too and it is soo flexible! You were right about the DI thing. This has been updated in the help file to show DI 1-6 only (what it was meant to be), so cheers for that. PS. Check out the short key list - Very handy! Jurgen

Hi Ryan. Although you could get away without an IAT sensor, it is highly recommended that you use one. Especially if you are tuning things on the edge to get the most out of your engine. The last thing you need is to have your engine tuned to it's limits on a hot day, and then take it out for a hard drive on a cold day where the ECU isn't aware it should be dumping in more fuel to allow for the more dense air. Of course a wideband could assist with this, but for the sake of under $100, I would just do it. In saying this, do not use the one in your air filter box as this is pre-charged air and will give the ECU an inaccurate idea of the actual temperature used by the engine (the net result of this would be too rich again). In the mean time, just check your IAT fuel correction is turned to 'OFF' if you are not inputting an IAT signal. The input for this temp channel may have a fault value it's reading and in turn this will have an effect on the fueling. Do the log while it sits there and idles if your going to do one. Jurgen

Hi Ivan. We sell the LC-1 kit, and you can download software to log with it, but is this going to solve your initial problem? We already know you have unstable AFR. I would like to see you try the last suggestion and see how you go with that first. This way at least you know you are starting from a good base and not an old program. Jurgen

Hello Ivan. You are correct, this is the word you need. Idle is the low RPM resting state with the engine running. Usually waiting in a big line of traffic, and late for a job interview I think really the best thing to do is to perform a reload of the factory default settings. This is going to get you closest to a start up map. This is done by going to 'Link Controls' and pressing 'Reload' (or just press CTRL+R). If you are worried about loosing the current map, just save it first. These settings should be very close to get you started, but being an STi you will have to adjust your master fuel number so at idle you're looking at a reasonable AFR using your wideband. Do not take it for a big hard drive with these settings unless you are confident it is not going to run lean. Let me know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Matt. Unfortunately it's never an easy job to chase these little gremlins as there are so many variables. I take it the car has never run quite right to date, is it something you shuold be taking back to your tuner to resolve? Where I would start is servicing your TPS by attacking it with a can of contact cleaner and test it's output is consistant (really only if your tune is spanned across this). Once done, don't forget to re-span it as per the manual. Then I would look at reviewing all of your vacuum hosing stemming from the manifold to ensure there are no leaks (common problem that catches a lot of people). Ultimately a smoke machine makes a definitively acurate and quick job out of this. See how you go with these things and let us know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Cameron. Yes you are correct, you could go either way and it would work if you are are running wasted spark or distributed ignition. It starts to matter when you include a cam driven sync pulse and sequential ignition. Jurgen

Hi Sam. Yes that is correct. 5 & 6 to one pair, and 7 & 8 to the other, and the 2 centre pins should be provided with +12v. If you find the stepper trying to pull one way, and then the same way again when it souldn't be, just transpose one of the pairs only (5 for 6 or 7 for 8). If you do experience this problem, swapping 5 & 6 for 7 & 8 in this situation will give you the same result (stepper trying to pull one way, and then the same way again). Just swap one of the pairs polarity for want of a better term. Jurgen

Hi Sam. The AUX outputs you will need to wire are 5, 6, 7, 8 for your idle stepper. 5 & 6 to one pair, and 7 & 8 to the other. If you find the stepper trying to pull one way, and then the same way again when it souldn't be, just transpose one of the pairs only. Jurgen

Hello Ivan. My complements on your english, I would not have known after reading this post. More on the subject, there is not a map that we have here that is fully tuned, only start up. If you are not getting anywhere with finding a map for it, the things you will need to be focusing on are inlet air temperatures maybe getting too high, timing too advanced in those zones, or the AFR is far too lean, as all of these things can have a great effect on knock. Jurgen

Hi Joseph. As long as your reference timing and everything is square in accordance with the instructions, even though trig1 and 2 are wired to the right inputs, it sounds as though there might be a high likely hood your reluctor sensor/s polarity is reversed. Possibility? These can be checked either with an oscilliscope or if that is not available a steel ruler test. Quickly bring the ruler toward the sensor with the sensor hooked up to a multimeter, the reading should go positive, quickly away will make it go negative. Let me know if you have any luck with that. Jurgen