Jurgen Biggelaar

Hi Cameron. 4K7 means 4700 ohms effectively, however you have shown a 1K (1000 ohm) resistor here. In fact you would probably be better off with this one as it will provide a more positive 'pull up'. I say this after discussing with my collegue and he agrees. Yes, get the 1K 1/4W pictured in the link you provided from radio shack... Should do the job nicely. Let us know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Rhys. We have only just recently found this to be a possible issue on the bench, and currently have our firmware with one of our dealers for further testing on an engine. Thanks. Jurgen

Thanks Darryn. One idea could be to use a solenoid or vacuum type actuator controlled by a solenoid attached to either the throttle or throttle cable mechanism, or even the throttle stop screw. Flick a switch, *poink* - Opens up your throttle plate. Good luck! Jurgen

Hi Tane. Please contact me on [email protected] for the pricing and sending instructions. As the forums are kept on line for ever, we tend not to price here as things can change. If people view older information with older pricing it can really throw them off. Cheers. Jurgen

Thanks San, that's quite nice to know. Jurgen

Hi Ryan. Trig1 is your Crank trigger (4 teeth on that engine) and Trig2 is your cam pulse (2 teeth different widths). Select the EVO1-6 trigger pattern in the software and you should be home and hosed. This is all assuming you have done the base timing calibration and confirmed your offset with TDC on #1. If you haven't, you really need to do some reading of the manual and/or PCLink help files. If you have and just can't figure out what is going on, have a look at this... http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/G25%20Mitsubishi%20VR4%204G63%20Triggering%20and%20Ignition.pdf It is the same as your set up assuming it is standard triggering. Jurgen

Hi Darryn. With E-Throttle it's just a setting so that is easy if you have one (and an ECU/Module that will enable this control). Another way is to use a throttle stop screw to hold the throttle plate open, but this is a permanent high idle feature you will have to deal with on your daily drive (not recommended to run AL on your daily though). Or use a solenoid as you suggest. Link sells their 'ISS' (Idle Speed Solenoid), but that won't really cut it on most applications to bleed enough air for AL. I have seen on one car 2 of them which did bleed enough however. That was on an FJ20 with approximately 500RWHP... But this really is a half measure and I don't recommend it. I am sure if you visit some automation/Process industries you may find a 12v solenoid designed for some machine you may be able to hack up and make fit Jurgen

Hi Daniel. It's a bit confusing with so many choices of manual. Here is the link to the manual you need, and I am having the website updated so the link to this manual is a bit clearer to understand. It's actually the Storm/Xtreme manual... It applies to the RX also. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g4-engine-management-documentation/G4Install Jurgen

Cool! Thanks for your feedback Nick. I'll share this with the crew. Jurgen

Hi Matt. Unfortunately not. To calculate gear, it must have the required PWM signal (speed) vs. RPM. Pretty much as simple as that. There really isn't a way to fudge it either. Cheers. Jurgen

Hi David. Are you using the advanced mode? If not, may be turn that on, and manipulate the start and end cut patterns. You can soften your cyclic idle up like this and will find most likely the 'pop' will disappear. It's not a firing event you are hearing, as technically there should be no fuel in there to pop Visit the Anti-Lag Settings portion of the help file for a full explanation on these advcanced settings. Let me know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Allan. Denis is bang on. Don't forget you can only run group fuel/ignition with just this as your triggering (60-2 on the crank). This would go to TRIG1 which you have obviously figured out, but a sync pulse on the cam will be needed if you want to run wasted spark or sequential fuel/ignition. The other option is with 60-2 on the cam, you can run sequential too. Jurgen

Hi Sanford. Apart from the fact you have not yet set DC's on the boost table, it seems as though you have covered it all, so you should be ready for tuning! Obviously I cannot see your car so I cannot say "perfect, it's all good"... I never would unless physically doing it myself. As it is a G1, the firmware you have is the firmware you have... So no changing that just on the fly like these days. Which brings me to the next answer, we all use G4 systems here. The newer technology is far prefered for the ease and increased acuracy. Jurgen

Hi Brian. Is this a plug in or wire in unit, and is it a 1.8L or 1.6L... It makes all the difference Jurgen

Hi Tane. This is definately a plug in for a V1-2 Subaru WRX (also fits the early RS Legacy). It is not laptop tuneable as you know, but can be upgraded to PC Tune. The comment of "has gap for anti lag chip" is complete horse sh**, as the main chip is programed with anti-lag OR PC tune depending on your desire... Which brings me to the next point. You will not find a PC tuneable plug in this G1 range that has anti-lag, or the flip side to that, you will not find one with anti-lag that can be PC tuned. The problem is the memory on these chips are limited, and you have to choose between one, or the other. Jurgen

Hi Michael. Yes this unit is PC tuneable, you will just require the 'SerialLink' adapter box to plug in to it. Is has the ribbon cable to plug in between the ECU and the SerialLink adapter, and from the adapter you need to supply just a standard male to female D9 serial extention cable, which then plugs in to your serial port on the laptop. Please be aware the serial cable is NOT a null modem cable... Just straight extension. For pricing on the SerialLink, please contact [email protected]. Jurgen

+1 Test on function and the F12 key is your friend here... Jurgen

Hi Jeremy. You would still have to have something in your master fuel number to start, so I personally would just use that. Every pro using these systems, and us do it this way, along side an AFR gauge so when it fires you will have it pretty much sorted in a couple mins... Not that much work on your starter really, and adjustment of the master number can be done when the cursor is in the box and you press 'Q' and 'A' as 'up' and 'down'. The function you wanted can be implemented, it's just very unorthodox and I have never heard of anyone doing it this way. Never the less if you wish to continue down this path, just turn on an overlay fuel table and span the supplied voltage across the Y axis of the table. To find this, select Fuel Corrections, turn on Dual fuel and select Overlay. Set on the overlay always on, or a DI to switch this table active. This table appends that cell data, it is NOT an absolute number. Let me know how you get on. Jurgen

Hi Ryan. I would start by trying the EVO v1-6 triggger pattern to begin with, but make sure you have the following settings under BOTH Trig 1 and Trig 2 once chosen. Type = Optical/Hall, Pull up = 'ON', Filter level = 1. Make sure the Edge = Rising on Trig1 and Edge = Falling on Trig2. Once this is set, please turn off your fuel pump and ignition system through PCLink, and crank the engine. You will see in your runtime values (F12 Triggers/Limits tab), if the ECU is seeing them correctly. Setting the base timing is easy, after turning your ignition system back on, crank your engine over, you will see the timing mark on the pulley. Be aware that damage can be caused if you are distributed and the timing is already WAY off for some reason. If you are unsure, bring piston #1 to TDC and make sure the rotor is pointing quite close to a distributor tower. Other than that, just follow the instructions on how to 'calibrate' your timing. Cranking over with no fuel means it won't fire up if it wanted to. Make sure you base timing number is what you time your puley too. The adjustment if the mark on the pulley is out is your offset in the calibrate box. Jurgen

Hi Nick. The AUX that is running the ISC Solenoid has to be on AUX1 (if it is solenoid type). To adjust the frequency you must press enter in the box after changing it to 200Hz. It is a common mistake to 'tab' out of the field and the setting not to save in the box... Just press enter. Let me know if this is your issue. Jurgen

Hi Edwin. We don't have a base map for one of these as we haven't had one in our workshop. You will have to see a tuner who has done one of these for that I would imagine. Jurgen

Hi Stephane. This is a good point. As if you have one of the newer red Xtreme's, it will not do the E-Throttle at all without the external module needed. If you have an older silver Xtreme you should be OK. I take it you are installing this as a wire in unit, not with an adapter? Jurgen

Hi Warmup. It can control up to 4 individually and infinately variable cams without issue. The V10 base map you looked at was from our company car which only has inlet, hence it showing only 1per side (from memory). The plug in to suit a V10 WRX and STi's and the like are currently an Xtreme with an adapter, kind of like the G3 with adapter for a lot of the Nissan applications a while ago. WRX V1 through V9 we have native plug in units for. Download the manual here : http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g4-engine-management-documentation/SubaruV10 This way you can check off the pin out of yours to see if either of the adapters will fit. Bear in mind what you call a V10, I think is a little different here. With the 2008, for us it could either be a V10, or V11 which we don't currently have a solution for. If it is a hatch back, then it's most likely a V11 to us, but if it is the sedan shape then you may be in luck with our plug in... That's what NZ calls the V10. Jurgen

Not really with that unit Adam. Jurgen

Hi Matthew. Here is an LEM G3 Rotary Sample File. This file was provided as a demonstration of the LEM G3 as it would be configured in a typical Rotary engine application. Please understand to the best of our knowledge this file is OK, but cannot not be held liable for anything untoward happening. In short, all care no responsibility comes with this file (attached). This will hopefully get you started and idling after a quick twiddle on the master fuel number and an AFR reading. Please check everything BEFORE attempting starting the vehicle. Jurgen