Stevieturbo

datalog injector pulse widths and MAP/RPM etc, then build a table from there.

But really, there is no real good reason to want to use a MAF. Even more so with individual throttles.

What is the question ? A front entry TD05 will do 350, maybe a little more at a push, depending on fuel available. Standard yellow injectors will be very near their limit at this level. An uprated intercooler would be beneficial too. You will likely need to port the wastegate on the TD05 to prevent boost creep. But as you say a minimum of 350....really, the parts you have are almost maxed out at 350 unless you can make it all work very well and with decent fuel

For dedicated drag use, then a timed approach will probably be better. There are obviously reasons why most controllers in the drag world use it. With the timer activated once the vehicle is moving. or if there is a way you can use GPS to provide a speed signal that would be reliable

Undriven wheel speed would be safer, so you would never experience an overboost with wheel spin scenario. Assuming the car doesnt pull wheelies of course.

Cossie already uses an external ignition amp to drive the single coil, so you should be ok 4 tooth magnetic crank trigger and 2 tooth magnetic phase pattern

For wideband lambda display or logging etc, you must use an external controller/sensor.

Solenoids are very low current...if you want to pulse both with the same duty, just wire them to the same output

Post a picture. Your description is rather vague.

There used to be a place that sold them for US$20, they dont seem to list them anymore though. Everywhere else charged a huge amount more. http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67 The VEMS option above looks like the next best thing as far as value goes. Unless you need multiple channels and can use a TC-4 or similar product http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67'>

The LS2 coils with the heat sink discharge at about 5.5-6ms But there really is no need or point to run them any higher than 5ms. Even about 90% of cars wont even need that much with the normal older style coils. They are all very powerful units, so keep the dwell well below the automatic discharge time.

And is your car completely standard ? Are you sure your wideband is working and calibrated correctly ? What actual injector pulse widths are you seeing at idle ?

Trigger offset is you telling the ecu when TDC occurs relative to the crank trigger wheels markings. It has nothing to do with the cam position as such.

Explain what you mean. What m/s are you changing ? Every coil will be different. Run too much dwell and you risk damage. So if you do not know how much dwell you should have, it's best to stick with lower numbers. Seems in your case the higher dwell is causing the problem, so if it runs better at 3-3.5, then just leave it there !

You do understand that the ecu needs tuned for each application ? What sort of mixtures are you seeing ? And is it a plug n play application, or is this something you have wired up yourself ?

Depending on the size of the turbo etc, Then making no boost or little power until 3800rpm may be perfectly normal for your setup. And also dependng on turbo and power, your standard injectors may well be near their limit if you do make decent mnumbers at 15psi. Trying other peoples maps under these circumstances is not a good idea, You really need someone competent and experienced to look at it.

I did a B16A a year or two ago and it came out around 175deg. I fitted a coilpack to mine afdter frying the amp inside the Honda dizzy, although still used the dizzy for the trigger.

The sensors are the same, and you can easily fit the later model crankwheel to yuou older engine.

What age is the engine ? the trigger wheels changed in 2001 when the new model car came out. You need to select based on that, not what cams are fitted. How many teeth are on your crank trigger wheel ? Old cars had 6 unevenly spaced. New model cars have 36 in theory, although almost half of them are missing that's an easy way to identify age.

Just reduce engine coolant temp related fuel compensations as required. there is no right or wrong. If you reduce them too far, it wont start or run properly when cold. So just increase again slightly. There is no correct AFR etc, every engine will be different

Dont forget, the coils also need good power to provide spark, and the fuel pump needs power to provide fuel All the injector dead time in the world wont cope with a fuel pump with no power, and 2v is a huge difference for a pump. If indeed the engine even had 12v when running and no method of charging.

I dont see why AFR is pointless. The sensor or ecu doesnt know or care what fuel you are using The AFR you see is purely a maths function of Lambda x 14.7. Nothing more, nothing less. So if you want say 0.8 lambda, just tune to 11.76 AFR, They are the same regardless of fuel. Ignore the AFR name if it makes it easier, as it means little. I find it annoying that some ecu's only allow you to display lambda.

Just use an open bulb thermister as used in thousands of cars. They are not expensive by any means. Or contact any decent ecu supplier as they'll have something in stock. No idea where on planet earth you are, but you should easily get one for around UK£20 and are available in a variety of threaded fitments.

If you want to log EGT, here is a cheap Thermocouple amplifier http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=185&zenid=9b8f175f932589642651e0a1ef46f1d8 There is little benefit to a larger throttle body unless you're making huge power. 500bhp is easily achieved on the standard TB. TB. If you wanted to use a 2001+ TB and ISCV it is a simple affair. It is 3 wire, but that's 12v, signal and ground. so only uses a single ecu output. Not 100% sure how easily it will bolt on, doubt it will be that difficult though. Ive used these on engines making 600+ Again, you simply do not need or want oversize throttle openings.

What exactly is the makeup of the triggering system you are using ? Does the dizzy provide all triggers, or is there a separate crank sensor too ? And why on earth are you rotating the dizzy to adjust timing, when you have a fully programmable ecu ?