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tiago

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About tiago

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  • Birthday 01/15/1985

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  1. Hi Adamw, I noted that the ISC was set to be opened 100% at all time. After adjusting it the idle is way better but now it's reading very lean when the rpm goes up. Tried to increase the master fuel but did not help. Log https://www.dropbox.com/s/80jup0dlbn83dai/Log 2020-02-23 6%3B28%3B20 pm.llg?dl=0 Subaru 99 Type RA - New Intake.pclr
  2. I did the tests and found that 2 cylinders was wrong. Changed the wires and now it's way better. The idle is pretty high tho. Probably because of the new bigger injectors. I played a little with the main fuel value but was not able to get a significant result. Next goal is to make the car driveable to be able to drive to the dyno. Last Log: (too big to attach it here) https://www.dropbox.com/s/yqacslelb48zcno/Log 2020-02-20 7%3B10%3B32 pm.llg?dl=0
  3. Thank you Simon, it worked!!! The engine started but looks like some cylinder is not working properly. If I give some gas the rpm is not going up easily. Since the coils wiring is new, what would be the best way to test if everything is working properly? Can I check the ignition status from the logs? Or best way to confirm it is to removing the coils and checking for the spark.
  4. Hi all, just finish an intake swap on my 1999 Sti and I'm trying the first start. I'm using the 2005 intake and the major differences are the ISC Solenoid, fuel injectors (sti top feed pink) and the individual coils. Did a try today but no success. I'm seeing a log or Trigger Errors, not sure if it could be my problem or would be something else. What I did was merge my current configuration with the Subaru V7 Base map. I thought that changing the fuel injector and coil configuration would be enough to start the engine with the new mods. Any clue? Log 2020-02-17 2;09;37 pm - 5.llg Subaru 99 Type RA - New Intake.pclr
  5. Based on the base map for the Subaru V7 it's using only one Aux for the ISC. Did some research and looks like the 3 wires Subaru ISC work like a 2 wire valve. Take a look: Correct, I'm using the newest model that has the throttle body combined with ISC and MAP.
  6. At the time that I did the video the all the intake wires was disconnected (the 2 big connectors near the battery) it could explain the ground problem. I was more interested to test if the Link was ok and wanted to check all the wires with a multimeter before connect it again just to be safe. I'm not using the original wiring. I am using the new wiring that comes with the new intake. I opened the new wiring and removed all unnecessary connectors/wires and matched (on the 2 big connectors) all the wires with my old one. The new intake has a wiring for the map that my old one didn't that I will use. Also the TPS and idle control valve is different. The new ICV has 3 wires and the old one 6. So I will free up aux (5, 6, 7 and 8) by using the new ICV. Aux 5 - will be used on the new MAP Aux 6 - For the ICV Aux 7 and 8 for the Fan Relay 1 and 2 And the Aux - Ign 3 and Ign 4 (that was used by the Fan Relay 1 and 2) will be used for the coils to be able to use Direct Spark. As you said the pinouts is very different and that was my error (shame on me). I did a try using the new intake wires before check everything and on that moment that the fuse blown and the link stopped to work.
  7. I'm doing an intake swap (intake, throttle body, fuel injection and coils) from a newest model and wired something wrong. I wired a negative from the ecu to a positive. After that the fuse blown and everything stops to work. I double checked all the new wires and now it's ok. The car will not run with the oem ecu anymore unless I swap the intake back.
  8. Did the test powering the big diode as on the picture but there's no led on. I think its dead Thanks guys, I think now the last think to do is send it back to be repaired.
  9. Hey guys, There's some way to check if the ecu is burned? Like a check with the multimeter? After a bad wiring (Subaru Sti 1999 V6) I burned a fuse (SBF n5 30A) and after that I am not able to connect to the link anymore. With all wires connected to the ECU, if I turn the key to on the rpm (on the dash) is not moving like before. After turn the key on and move back to off the dash lights start to blink like some energy was being sending (check the video link please). How can I confirm that it's burned (or something) before I send it back to for repair? Last, check the picture, is this little "dot" on the transistors some bad indicator? Is it normal? https://youtu.be/K59v3R8092w
  10. Do I need to wire ign 1-4 to the respective cylinders? Like: ign 1 to cylinder #1 Ign 2 to cylinder #2 Ign 2 to cylinder #3 Ign 2 to cylinder #4
  11. Hey guys, I decided to swap my intake manifold from a sti V6 to a V7 to get ride of the ISC stepper and also I removed the coil pack to use Direct Spark. What would be the best approach to wire the coils? Use the loom Ignition Drive 7 and 8 + the current Ignition Drive 1 and 2. Or Could I use Aux 7 and 8 for the coil since I'm not going to use it anymore? Or better rewire the Engine Fan to use Ignition Drive 1, 2, 3 and 4 on the coils and move Aux 7 and 8 for the fans? Any other tip or advice on that?
  12. Thanks @Adamw for the clarification. The option 1 worked, but it was not bright as I was expecting. So, I guess the option 2 will be more suitable since I don't wanna re-wire anything else. Could you please guide me about the pull up resistor? I just need to add a resistor on the ECU side to transform the 6 to 12v right? What would be the best value for the resistor? (tried to find it here but no success) Thanks!
  13. I added a Led warning light for water temp and oil pressure but looks like the ground is “leaking”. Even when the aux is off the led stay on (but not at full power/light). To wire the Led, the positive is wired on a random 12v and the negative to the link, loom Ign7 and Ign8. I tested the led before using the 12v wire and grounding it at the chassi and worked fine. Am I doing something wrong? Subaru 99 Type RA.pclr
  14. In my case (WRX 5-6) my factory knock has only one wire and the new bosh knock sensor has 2. Should I rewire the bosh knock sensor to the extension loom to have the signal + ground or can I just use the factory connector plugging it to any pin or the new knock sensor?
  15. Also, what would be the correct model for the Bosch sensor? Will this one be the correct for a Subaru (EJ20)? Bosch 65018
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