Jump to content

SteveX

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SteveX

  1. Hi guys, currently running a RV8, fitted with a h404 cam. I can’t find the specs on the cam but understand it has a large overlap. Car has been mapped and is making great power and running well, but it stinks on tickover (no cats). It’s running as lean as poss on tickover, so I can only assume fuel is coming out of the exhaust ports. It’s currently been upped to 340 from 330, but my question is, how much further is OK? I moved to 350 and no issues at idle it would seem, how far can I go? Just trying to minimise the rich fuel smell on tickover, but not sure of the negative effects of having the
  2. Thanks Adam, no worries, I haven't had chance to load in and test yet as I've been busy, will do when I can and let you know, many thanks!
  3. Thanks for the reply, if I go ahead with it i’ll combine the two switch grounds to one 2a fused wire going into the aux output just to make it safe in case of any surge. Cheers.
  4. Hi Gents, I've got a spare fan that was fitted on my old charge cooler rad (that appears to have not even really been wired in right) so I figured I may as well fit it to my new rad seeing as it's going spare and wire it in properly. I wasn't going to bother originally as I didn't want to block flow (it was fitted as a push style fan) but the part number shows it's a davies craig fan that's fairly decent and can be reversed, so I spun the blades around and will reverse the polarity that way it shouldn't block flow but make a nice pull fan. The previous person who fitted it just piggy
  5. SteveX

    IAT sensor

    Spot on, well the air tests seemed fairly good, so I'll try liquid and that should verify it then, thumbs up.
  6. SteveX

    IAT sensor

    Thanks Adam, it’s an open type element not a coolant style sensor. Would the water damage it?
  7. SteveX

    IAT sensor

    Hi Gents, I’ve been going round in circles trying to find out why he IAT is slow to respond and always high. I pulled the sensor today and that is when I found it is an FAE one and was reading 28 degrees when ambient was 16-17. To test, I blasted very cold compressed air on the sensor, it took a while to change to around 22, but then started to climb to about 23 again whilst cold compressed air was still blowing on it. When I stopped, it quickly climbed back to about 28/29 which I knew was not ambient. I set to Bosch 017, ambient then showed 17, I went to my other car and checke
  8. Thanks Adam, you are a star, attached is the PCL. mr2.zip
  9. Hi, It's set to open loop, it's a MAC 3 port, activation 1500 rpm, 100kpa MAP, 20hz. I just checked some old logs at wastegate pressure, I guess it is stable, average 60kpa, fluctuates here and there up or down by 1 kpa, so 59 then 60 then 61 then 60, a couple of peaks at 62. With my setting, it will peak at around 76 on boost when it spools up, and will vary with lows of 69 sometimes less, it won't hold a steady 76ish. I'm looking at a target of 11psi, so close as I can get to 76kpa solid. I am working on the charge cooler system, and need to know that I can maintain steady 11
  10. Thanks Adam, sorry have been crazy busy re assembling the charge cooler system and building heat shields. I’m on my mobile right now but will message you the map soon. That’s a good point, i’ll check at wastegate pressure but can only do that when the car is back together. Thanks, Steve
  11. Hi All, I'm trying to find a way to stabalise boost with the G4 Currently using a Mac 3 port, with open loop mode, RPM activation 1500, 100 kpa. Table is set up with RPM and MGP. I know there is a dead zone with the solenoid, so <10% doesn't really do anything. Wastegate pressure is 7psi, target 11psi max. Duty cycle for the solenoid set to 27% from 1500 RPM, the plan was to bleed pressure from the wastegate for slightly better spool, but pressure does spike, it will peak at around 175kpa, or 75kpa positive boost, so a little short of 11, but as RPM climbs boost re
  12. Awesome thanks, tested yesterday evening and I can confirm your solution is perfect, i can just tailor the temp values to what I like. Many thanks for the awesome support / help
  13. Adam, thanks for the quick response, perfect. It makes sense having one set to fan, makes things a little more simple, although I guess both should work, I'll add one of the Vaux's to show engine fan. I set the switch off timer to 5 seconds, as I assumed this would take effect when the other condition is no longer met, IE overrun for 5 seconds, just to be sure it's within the temp I want and doesn't just flick into it for a second and back up. However, I still wonder what the polarity of the fan will be seeing as there is no option unless you chose the engine fan under aux2?
  14. Hi Gents, I would like to set up my engine fans to run with ECT and IAT, due to two radiators being used. I've dug up some useful information from Clint, and the method mostly makes sense. Standard setup: Aux2 set to Engine Fan function, Low Polarity, On 90, Off delta of -2 Modified setup: Aux2 set to GP Output: switch off 5 seconds, Logic Condition 1 and 2, Switch conditions are Vaux1 and Vaux2 ports. Vaux1 set to GP output: Cond 1 ECT > 85c Cond 2 Aux Virtual value = on 0 Cond 3 ECT > 84C Vaux2 set to G
  15. So I just checked the data logging, it's around 12 on acceleration but varies from 11-14 tbh, on deceleration it's high maxes at 20, I assume that's ok as fuel is shut off? I am worried about EGT with the new turbo, but as long as AFR is somewhere in the middle at cruise and acceleration it should be good correct? Thanks guys.
  16. I also have a short log file I can attach if it help, appreciate any help
  17. Hi Guys, Unfortunately my turbo failed, the mapper said the car was very lean on the base map when I got it to them. They did some tuning to make the map 'safe'. I have a wideband fitted, and the new turbo has now been fitted, but I want to plug in a laptop and understand what isn't safe. IE is the car safe as long as AFR reads central during acceleration and the car is not leaning out? They made the car run a little richer than it should to lower EGT and IAT they said. On deceleration the wideband goes into the red in terms of being rich. I assume that's understandable on a turbo ca
  18. Thanks Clint for your help and advice and taking the time to respond, I decided to ship the part to them to swap out, so fingers crossed that sorts it and then they can map with VVTI. Just have to keep everything crossed and wait patiently now.
  19. Hi, Here's the info from the tuner, I guess the best thing for now is to disable VVTI on the ECU, and tune as best without VVTI, then I can get the motor back and do some parts swapping from my old motor, if I can get the VVTI working then they said I can take it back and they can make so adjustments to take into account the VVTI (as the majority of the base setup will be done). They also said likely with the turbo and once tuned properly, I probably won't notice the difference between using or not using VVTI. The engine builder is adamant V
  20. Spot on thanks for that! I just simulated it on a 1zz motor I have here on my stand and by feeding 12v to the solonoid there is a definite audiable clack. I’ll ask cheers!
  21. Thanks clint i’ll pass this info on and see what they say I’ve passed on the info. I don’t suppose anyone knows what the vvti system needa in order to function? I get that it needs good oil pressure and the cam position sensor (and a working vvt solonoid / ocv). Is there anything else the link vvti function would need in order for it to opperate? **edit** They said they couldn’t hear a click from the solonoid. It was registered on the ecu and they could see the sensor but it wouldn’t do anything.
  22. Hi All, I've got my car in for mapping, the mapper says that the VVTI system is unresponsive, yet the engine builder says that the VVTI was operating before the new engine was fitted in my car. The mapper can see the solonoid and the cam position sensor but the VVTI is unresponsive? They aren't sure what to try, as the chap that built the engine said both the solonoid and oil channel is fine in the engine, and it was functioning prior to the link being used. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.
  23. SteveX

    Slow cranking

    Thanks for that. This kit has no o2 sensor, do you recommend getting one? Will it make any difference once the car is set up and mapped properly with one on the RR? I can't put one near the manifold as it is cast and it has a 200 cell sports cat fitted, if I should fit one where would be best? Thanks! Oh and would a £70 Bosch one be ok?
  24. SteveX

    Slow cranking

    Thanks guys, yep best to leave those in the know to do what they do best, I was just keen to try and get it starting better myself. JMP your fuel and ignition table makes it turn over faster and arguably idle smoother (much less lumpy). I think the car you tuned is different loom wise and sensor wise though. For example my setup has no narrowband o2 sensors at all and the idle control is different for sure. It also had some changes made to the MAF. I am not sure regarding injector size etc, so I can only assume that the map need to be set up properly and then hopefully as you guys sa
  25. SteveX

    Slow cranking

    Righto, loaded in some of the idle and ignition settings from your map, it started from cold in about three turns and fast. But it wouldn't idle, just died. I loaded back the crappy map I have, and reduced the upper left corner of the ignition table lower, cranking seems nice and quick now normal speed. Took it round the block and started and stopped it about 5 times, seemed a lot better, not perfect but cut the cranking time by at least half. Pulled over one last time at full temp, I left it ticking over while I was looking at some settings, but it started hunting at idle, bouncing
×
×
  • Create New...