Wiring in my fury on my 93 MR2 2GRFE TURBO

[airjer]

I have a built 4 liter stroker 2GR engine I've spent the last 7 years building, I have finished my headers, and fabricated a custom intake manifold.  I am using the Toyota DBW pedal and a GM DBW throttle body.     I have made a chart and started labeling all my wires, and grouping them together for particular sensors, etc...   But I've noticed a issue.    

 

I want to have the following features

• VVT Control
• Launch Control
• Anti-lag
• Boost Control
• Cruise Control
• Traction Control and Boost control by slip %
• Intercooler pump control
• chiller control based on temp input of intercooler water
• ac compressor kill
• Flex Fuel with fuel pressure input
• and maybe more

but i've noticed I quickly run out of inputs and outputs.....

 

I also have a Link/AIM street dash.

 

So I need driven wheel and non driven wheel inputs and everything I've read shows needing all 4 wheel speed inputs and it just doesn't look like I've got enough digital inputs.   

Any chance I can use the AEM 22 Channel CAN sensor module  PN 30-2212 to add the 4 wheel speed sensors?

Also I am compound turbocharging this engine to acheive a smoother power band, reducing lag, and keeping the turbos in their efficiency island.  which complicates the boost control...

fury 2gr wiring.xlsx

[Adamw]

There are 8 analog inputs and one speed sensor input on the dash you can use and they can be broadcast back to the ecu over CAN for some functions.  For instance you could possibly use the dash analog inputs for many of the switch type functions such as cruise control/launch/antilag switch etc.  You could use the dash speed input as the non driven wheel speed, and you could use a single VSS gearbox sensor connected directly to the ecu for driven wheel speed.  You also need a brake input and preferably clutch for cruise control - they could probably be done through the dash.  Also there are cruise control "stalks" that give you all 4 cruise switches through a single analog input, so that might save some inputs. 

The AEM device could be used but mostly only for the same limited functions as the dash inputs.  It only has 2 VR speed sensor inputs.

[Richard Hill]

This box should do what you need :-

https://shopbhp.com/products/ecumaster-wheel-speed-to-can-module?_pos=3&_sid=c6e837dd2&_ss=r

CAN output, and quite flexible, interfaces directly to 4 ABS sensors.

 

HTH,

  Richard.

 

[airjer]

Thanks for the replies guys.    Looks like I'' be using the dash to bring in one of the front wheel speed sensors and using the vehicle speed sensor off the trans to feed the ecu with driven wheel speed. 

So with that sorted,  I'm looking at my chassis side wiring as some mainly power circuits need to be integrated into my engine harness.   

1. So I've found how to wire the starter relay circuit,  is it wise to give the ECU an Starter input, or is that even necessary, since it will have input from the crank and cam sensors to know when it's being cranked.
2. My chassis uses a Circuit opening relay to power the fuel pump relay.   The fuel pump relay is triggered by ground signal from terminal FPR from the original ECU, and has a Fuel Cut function on the circuit opening relay which is fed from terminal FC on the original ECU.       What is a sound way of controlling this using the Fury?   It seems that I could take both functions that the toyota ECU performed and use one AUX output to ground both relays at the same time.  But I'm not sure what control logic could be used in the fuel pump control built into the Link fury.     Help?
3. I'm assuming all 4 cam sensors, and all 4 VVT solenoids need to be wired into the fury for VVT to work correctly?
4. I also don't know how I'm going to approach keeping the air conditioning working.   I have a brand new 1GR compressor which is a simple compressor 2 wires to a ac clutch....    But my chassis uses a ac amplifier, and it has a input from the original ignitor for some purpose.  maybe to verify the engine is still running the terminal is called IGN  Not sure if it's necessary to have or if I just have to shut the ac off before trying to start the engine so that I don't have the increased drag of the compressor....  I'm not sure that it would even be worth having the ecu control this and lose a input and output.   

 

[Adamw]

1 hour ago, airjer said:

So I've found how to wire the starter relay circuit,  is it wise to give the ECU an Starter input, or is that even necessary, since it will have input from the crank and cam sensors to know when it's being cranked.

No not really necessary, it is only used for "pre crank prime", you can set it to "ignition on" instead of start position.  Doesnt work quite as well since fuel pump isnt primed yet but usually is fine.

 

1 hour ago, airjer said:

My chassis uses a Circuit opening relay to power the fuel pump relay.   The fuel pump relay is triggered by ground signal from terminal FPR from the original ECU, and has a Fuel Cut function on the circuit opening relay which is fed from terminal FC on the original ECU.       What is a sound way of controlling this using the Fury?   It seems that I could take both functions that the toyota ECU performed and use one AUX output to ground both relays at the same time.  But I'm not sure what control logic could be used in the fuel pump control built into the Link fury.     Help?

So it has a COR and a seperate FP relay?  Normally the COR is the fuel pump relay.  FC just goes to the ECU aux set as fuel pump

 

1 hour ago, airjer said:

I'm assuming all 4 cam sensors, and all 4 VVT solenoids need to be wired into the fury for VVT to work correctly?

If you want all 4 cams to work, yes.  Make sure you read this page in the help file, the 2GR cam sensors need special wiring:  Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Trigger Inputs > Specific Trigger Applications > Toyota 2GR-FE Cam

 

1 hour ago, airjer said:

I also don't know how I'm going to approach keeping the air conditioning working.   I have a brand new 1GR compressor which is a simple compressor 2 wires to a ac clutch....    But my chassis uses a ac amplifier, and it has a input from the original ignitor for some purpose.  maybe to verify the engine is still running the terminal is called IGN  Not sure if it's necessary to have or if I just have to shut the ac off before trying to start the engine so that I don't have the increased drag of the compressor....  I'm not sure that it would even be worth having the ecu control this and lose a input and output.   

I remember someone posting on here a while ago that had a better idea than me about how the Toyota AC amp works, I think it might have been @cj ?  If If it where me I would probably just connect the AC switch and AC clutch direct to the ecu and forget about the complexity of the AC amp.  It is best to have the ECU know when AC is working so it can do idle up etc.

[airjer]

Adam,

The SW20 has  a COR and a fuel pump relay that is a 2 speed relay essentially.  When on it will default to sending power thru a fuel pump resistor for low speed fuel pump operation (NC set of contacts) and then switch to High speed operation when needed.   I would like to utilize the factory fuel system wiring as it is apart of my body harness.  The problem I am having here is that the factory ecu would cut the fuel if the engine dies.  This is a important safety feature if you were to get in an accident.    I would like to retain that type of functionality, is it possible with the fury ?   Correct me if I'm wrong but loss of ground to the COR should open the fuel pump relay and kill the pump.   I have attached the snippet of the diagram that shows it.   Looks like I'm going to abandon  the blue/red FPR wire, and bypass the Pump resistor.    I have my own relay under the center console that is triggered by the factory fuel system wiring and just connects power from the battery directly to the pump as the small gauge and long length of the factory wiring has quite a voltage drop by the time it reaches the pump.    So then I could just use FC wire and wire it into the Fury on a AUX output for fuel pump control.  Also Toyota has a built in circuit for priming the pump, or at least running it while your cranking...   The Start wire from the ignition switch energizes a secondary coil in the COR to run the cor while cranking.

I will take the existing AC input to the original ECU and wire it up as a input on the fury.  that way the ecu knows whats going on, and can perform idle up.   Going thru all the wiring diagrams the only pin that goes to the ac amplifier thats at all related to the engine is the IGN ignition input on the A/C Amplifier.  So I hope that input is not critical to have for the ac to work.   

 

 

I also started putting together a basic configuration on a sample base map just to familiarize myself with how it sets up.  I've been logging alot of what I'm doing in a excel sheet for reference.

 

 

G4+ Fury 2GR.pclr fury 2gr wiring.xlsx

[cj]

The COR is best thought of as a traditional fuel pump relay - ECU grounds pin 4 and the pump turns on. No ground here, no fuel pump.

The dual position relay marked FPR is a high/low switch for the fuel pump [if its enabled at all by the COR]. on 1x path it runs via a big resistor so the pump sees less voltage. Given you have probably completely rebuilt the fuel lines anyway to run the bigger engine, i'd ditch the FPR relay & wiring and run the COR as simple on/off fuel pump control. Exactly how you do this is up to you but on factory wiring i'd just join the 2x wires going into the big resistor together so that it doesnt matter which position the FPR relay is in.

Ac...the biggest problem with AC in these is that most of them were built for R12a refrigerant which you cant buy any more. Assuming you re-do all the seals for something R134a compatible then you can get started. If you dont sort the seals on the whole system, it wont last very long before it starts leaking gas and you have no cooling.

Lets say you got around that though.... the igniter input to the ac amp is just to switch off the compressor at high RPM. The link ecu can do this for you anyway so just leave it disconnected. You wont have a high output ignition coil feed to run to it anyway on a modern engine.  The factory wiring is set up so that when the AC amp triggers the clutch to engage you'll see +12v on the black/white wire at the ecu as well, so this can be your idle up signal to the ECU. There is also an ACA/AC1 pin from the ac amp to the ECU which is grounded by the AC amp when it requests ac compressor operation. You probably only need 1x of either this or the actual compressor engagement signal. The pin labelled ACT is the signal from the ECU to the ac amp to cut ac operation. The ECU grounds this pin to request AC cut.

As @Adamwsays, you have an option to drive the AC compressor relay directly from the ECU - and the pressure switches are in line with the relay feed so you dont worry about those. You would also need to run the pink wire from the controls to the ECU as an ac request. Depending on how much re-wiring you've done i'd say its probably a touch easier to use the amp though - that way you dont need to re-wire the fans to a radiator switch or the ECU (factory fan circuit is separate from the ECU but uses the AC amp to read radiator water temp). You trade 2x inputs (a/c amp version) for 1x input & 1x output if you move to ECU controlled AC wiring, but you more than likely also need to use an additional output for radiator fan control too. That might be good or bad tradeoff depending on what pins you have available.

[airjer]

8 hours ago, cj said:

The COR is best thought of as a traditional fuel pump relay - ECU grounds pin 4 and the pump turns on. No ground here, no fuel pump.

OK,  so fuel pump control via FC wire wired into ECU for fuel pump control.   That's what I thought!   Thanks.

8 hours ago, cj said:

The dual position relay marked FPR is a high/low switch for the fuel pump [if its enabled at all by the COR]. on 1x path it runs via a big resistor so the pump sees less voltage. Given you have probably completely rebuilt the fuel lines anyway to run the bigger engine, i'd ditch the FPR relay & wiring and run the COR as simple on/off fuel pump control. Exactly how you do this is up to you but on factory wiring i'd just join the 2x wires going into the big resistor together so that it doesnt matter which position the FPR relay is in.

I think I had already bypassed the resistor when I had the turbo engine, I suppose the Fuel pump relay is redundant and can be eliminated 

8 hours ago, cj said:

Ac...the biggest problem with AC in these is that most of them were built for R12a refrigerant which you cant buy any more. Assuming you re-do all the seals for something R134a compatible then you can get started. If you dont sort the seals on the whole system, it wont last very long before it starts leaking gas and you have no cooling.

I own a heating and air conditioning company, and I can buy Virgin R12, I can literally go into the supply house and buy it.   They still have tons of it.  I have a 30lb jug of R12 at my shop.   I already bought a new compressor, new drier, condenser, evaporator coil, expansion valve, and flex lines.  everything but the flex lines came from Denso, so they are OEM items. 

8 hours ago, cj said:

Lets say you got around that though.... the igniter input to the ac amp is just to switch off the compressor at high RPM. The link ecu can do this for you anyway so just leave it disconnected. You wont have a high output ignition coil feed to run to it anyway on a modern engine.  The factory wiring is set up so that when the AC amp triggers the clutch to engage you'll see +12v on the black/white wire at the ecu as well, so this can be your idle up signal to the ECU. There is also an ACA/AC1 pin from the ac amp to the ECU which is grounded by the AC amp when it requests ac compressor operation. You probably only need 1x of either this or the actual compressor engagement signal. The pin labelled ACT is the signal from the ECU to the ac amp to cut ac operation. The ECU grounds this pin to request AC cut.

So let the AC Amplifier control the ac and just input the solenoid wire black/white to the ECU for idle up. 

8 hours ago, cj said:

As @Adamwsays, you have an option to drive the AC compressor relay directly from the ECU - and the pressure switches are in line with the relay feed so you dont worry about those. You would also need to run the pink wire from the controls to the ECU as an ac request. Depending on how much re-wiring you've done i'd say its probably a touch easier to use the amp though - that way you dont need to re-wire the fans to a radiator switch or the ECU (factory fan circuit is separate from the ECU but uses the AC amp to read radiator water temp). You trade 2x inputs (a/c amp version) for 1x input & 1x output if you move to ECU controlled AC wiring, but you more than likely also need to use an additional output for radiator fan control too. That might be good or bad tradeoff depending on what pins you have available.

Definitely going to rely on the AC amplifier to control the AC.

Thanks for explaining how the ac amplifier works.

 

 

[airjer]

@Adamw

what does polarity high or low mean?  does low mean negative and high mean positive?

what does Driver type high side  or low side mean?   Is this High or low resistance like a injector? 

[Richard Hill]

Polarity refers to the definition of the on state high=on or low =on.  

High side driven auxs switch to supply rail when on, low side driven auxs drive to ground when on (e.g. auxs 1-4).  

HTH, 

Richard. 

[airjer]

No clue what you mean on either account.  

 

@cj

Any chance you could explain this to me?

nevermind, my 3rd time searching the help file I think I've found my answer

 

[Richard Hill]

34 minutes ago, airjer said:

No clue what you mean on either account.  

@cj

 

Oh really?  I'm sorry 

[cj]

Low side drive vs high side drive determines whether the ECU sends ground or 12v when the output is commanded on. When an output is off, think of it like a 6v output - half way between/floating/no specific voltage. Its not technically outputting 6v but it helps to imagine it this way.

Low side driven outputs "send" ground when switched on, and float/send nothing when off.

High side driven outputs send 12v(aka 14v) when switched on, and float/send nothing when off.

The other setting you will see on some functions is Polarity, which is separate but related to high vs low side drive. Best way to think of polarity is whether the output signal defaults to on or off (aka whether "on" means floating or the chosen signal output). The examples in the help file you screenshotted show where you would use this, although to be fair its sometimes easier to just switch the setting until you get the behaviour you want from the device at the other end - espeically if you arent sure whether the device requires 12v or ground to activate.

[airjer]

Nevermind, I figured out a way.

[airjer]

So this car has sat since November 30th, 2019

I just started to try to complete the wiring on the car yesterday.  The long hiatus was due to a fire started by a neighboring suite that burned my business down.  The laptop that had my notes and diagrams and everything was destroyed in the fire.  Finally after 4.5 years I decided I need to finish this car.   Luckily I came here and found my notes, and my spreadsheet.  Otherwise I would have had to start all over.   trying to log what I had planned originally.   

Thank God, I uploaded it here!

I spent all day yesterday wiring what I knew and building a new fuse box that is smaller than the factory Toyota fuse box so it'll fit in the trunk behind the carpet!

Hopefully I can finish the car and have it running before the summer heat hits.