BMW M52/M54 triggers

[Ilovehorses]

Hi,

I have a BMW E46 M54B30, running Vipec V88 / Link G4 - setup for full sequential injection

I can get the car started and idling like stock using the M52 trigger pre-set, (setting the offset trigger etc..)

What I am trying to do however is recreate a manual trigger configuration using the M52 settings so I can adapt it for my M54 engine which runs dual vanos.

However when copy the M52 settings exactly into an equivalent manual configuration, the car will not start.

It would be a great help if you could list what settings the M52 preset uses, specifically the cams - as my thoughts are it is a cam sync problem.

Thanks!

[Ilovehorses]

OK, the car now starts, a cam setting was incorrect.

Just attempting to get Dual Vanos up and running - has anyone got it working with the M54 engine?

I am pretty sure the existing VVT presets will not work with the M54 so I am a bit lost as to what to do now.

Thanks

[Scott]

Good morning,

Sorry for the slow reply. In order to work out the correct VVT mode for you to use we need to know what the tooth arrangement is for the exhaust and intake cams. In the VVT setup menu there is a function called 'CAM Angle Test'. If you right click on this and select 'Whats this?' the help section will be displayed on how to use the function.

Using this will help determine what the tooth arrangement is. If you can provide us with this information we can compare it to the different modes we have available and advise which one to use.

When you do this make sure the engine is running nicely.

Let us know how it goes,

Regards,

Scott.

[Fredrik Pettersson]

Can we get some help on this ?

The dual vanos uses the same trigger wheel design for both cams.

Putting the Vvt settings to m52 preset allows me to control the exhaust cam(although at idle the position oscillates)

The intake just keeps logging errors with either too many pulses or too few pulses, can't really remember

So whatever settings the m52 preset has for the exhaust cam works.

heres a pic of the exhaust trigger 

And heres one of the intake(as you can see they are basically thesame)

on a side note; I have my 2nd trigger set up as cam pulse 1x , how do I know the engine runs fully sequential ? Before I had it set to none and I can't figure out if it's running fully or not

[Simon]

The pics are not displaying are you able to email them through to [email protected]

Along with your map.

[zek]

Here are the images:

http://postimg.org/image/58ydoj2ix/

http://postimg.org/image/btruq43gz/

[zek]

Apologies for using that questionable image hosting site!

[Fredrik Pettersson]

Yeah My error was not usling the m52 trigger preset, without it the vvti setting would not work.

i have almost thesame problem as you , at 3000rpm the exhaust cam is dead on its target but at idle it oscillates (I can see the solenoid % keep rising but cam stays same position until a it moves way too much and it goes the opposite direction)

the inlet solenoid I have at 0% but it makes a buzzing noise so I'm currently not using it until I get the exhaust set up

[zek]

I found this comment on another engine management fourm (unrelated to Link)

7-08-2013 -  I just tried camshaft control on M54B30 - double variable VANOS with two solenoid valves...

...and faced with following camshaft control problem: PWMing has wide 'dead zone' where camshaft stays in fixed position. Somewhat like from 35...60%. So current strategy works very robust reqires P=255 and high I value. But once pwm crosses dead-zone margin, camshaft movement is 1)already delayed 2)too sharp.

Here is another log with duty cycle.  I do not have any oscillation issues at idle but I have RPM lockout set at 1800.

http://i.cubeupload.com/ATHSl5.jpg

[Fredrik Pettersson]

Hey zek , could you by any chance share your accel enrichment settings with me ?

I'm having some trouble setting mine up perfectly

[Fredrik Pettersson]

Thanks for sharing have you tried bumping the solenoids ? Stock ecu runs them at 200hz

[emmin]

My opinion: M52 has one problem

During normal engine operation, vibrations from pressure pulses inside the intake manifold cause the bell crank lever and flapper valve to vibrate against each other where the hex shaped portions contact each other. These vibrations start a wear process which will cause the tiny glass fibers in the flapper valve to become exposed. Once the fibers become exposed they start to erode away the male hex portion of the weaker bell crank lever. As soon as the erosion starts it's all down hill from there until the hex is completely worn away. The symptoms of a worn DISA valve include rough idle, lean engine codes and lack of low to mid rpm power.
If you disassemble a worn out DISA valve and look at the bell crank lever it's common to not even recognize that it once had a hex shape on the protrusion. Once the hex is shape is worn off the lever, the flapper valve no longer opens and closes in a controlled manner by the rotation of the bell crank lever. The brittle flapper valve becomes free to slap around uncontrolled within the DISA support framework. This uncontrolled movement can lead to complete destruction of the flapper valve. The broken pieces of valve have no where else to go except through the intake manifold runners and through the motor, sometimes resulting in severe engine damage. Even a small piece of plastic broken off the flapper valve can hold an intake valve open, resulting in bent valves or much worse.
Since the only parts on the DISA valve that typically fail are the flapper valve, bell crank lever and housing seal, why replace the entire unit. Replace the failed internal parts with these http://vanos-bmw.com/disa-bmw-repair-kits upgraded parts and have a much more reliable DISA for 1/3 the cost.