2.0L_turbo

Would you be able to help me set that up properly? What I am trying to do is at around -6:55 in this log I test to see if my tps is reading WOT which it was but when I do this the car stays pretty lean around 13 afr and I am trying to get that to where it should be somewhere around 11.2-11.5. The page up method works but I do not like how I have now lost the shape of my fuel map and it is now all jagged. The car seems decently happy at cruising speeds but under load its still very sluggish but I believe thats because its running pretty lean on load. here is the map and the log, im not sure whats up with the wheel speed its kinda all over the place atm. https://drive.google.com/file/d/13IzSfTy5kCw58Ytu0hBAznndEZOJE18u/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oOQqFdbQhrQC3LKqRl32PL96dk7xwuKu/view?usp=sharing any help with this will greatly appreciated.

oh ok so mine uses mgp for the fuel table and map for the lambda target. so how would I change that so the two use the same axis? I was able to change the fuel table to map to match but then I could not see the cross hair for the table anymore.

so as the title says how do you properly use quick trim? I read the help file in the ecu however it looks out dated compared to what mine is showing me. In the help file it shows only 2 adjustable values being target lambda and measured lambda which I fully understand. however mine also has AFR target load value. so in that box do I just leave it alone at the 14.5 map psi that it is defaulted at and change the measured and target lambda or do I look at my map at that part in the log and input that then change the lambda values? hope that all makes sense.

We just got it figured out I pinned the IAT to coolant temp so they're backwards

hey guys so a while ago I finally got my car swapped over to speed density, after doing some logs I seen the Iat temps were super high at 190-210 at times. I first thought maybe these were accurate as I had a rather large turbo trying to get cooled by a stock sidemount intercooler that is pretty pathetically small so I decided to get my front mount intercooler put on. well I finally got the car back and after doing some logs nothing changed at all. The sensor I used was a Holley 534-20, and I have my calibration set to delphi ac iat. Not sure if maybe I have the wrong calibration but there is definitely no way my Iat is actually at 200 degrees now. Other then buying a new sensor ( because I already will be doing that, going to get a rife fast response ) what are some other things I could check or test to get this fixed? pics of new intercooler for reference. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TerVgMShPJ9zGPinOp_I3gE1umEXSiIn/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KMDXLlbLszbSeWfUuMejvLda-ewV3pLt/view?usp=sharing and here is the map and log ( I know it needs a lot of work but with the issue im having its fighting me ) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M_2lBNG7AsoRl1Y33M0z2vdfBct3zKHH/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RwfGxW-Yk6nGvCedmJDEt3xeJ_nvIs8H/view?usp=sharing thanks for any and all help guys !

Cool I tried taking a look the other night but didn't have much time to browse the help file. Glad to see that in there now when I get my big turbo on the car I can really have some fun

Hey Vaughan, been looking online but can't seem to find any info. Has this been implemented yet for g4x ECU's I would like to run this when I switch over to my large turbo setup.

interesting my bad everything I have ever read has stated what I mentioned and from personal experience has it never done me wrong but if their is a correct way of handling this Id trust your judgment.

ok so those do not splice into any other wires? and then with the tps main and ap main do they get spliced together and run to the an volt?

Hey everyone like the title says I am looking for some help on how to wire up a Mitsubishi Dbw throttle body. The one I found is a Mitsubishi eclipse 3.8L 65mm. I know that this throttle body is wired the exact same as a Evo X as it is an upgrade for those cars so the wiring I have found inside the help files in link show this . https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W3bz73K_oGbxPyAjpmpPZTmRYVhMmO5H/view?usp=sharing and for the throttle pedal I found this https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QXfTVLiGU2umtpwyJKgKpesOQY1zreVn/view?usp=sharing so here is how I am understanding this gets wired but I know I am missing a lot of it so if you can help me fill in the blanks I would greatly appreciate it, I do understand that signal 1 and 2 go to auxiliary channels on the ecu but I have seen some conflicting info on the forums where people were splicing those in with other wires so I just want to confirm exactly how it goes. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hjYD2MsMQPps36HHOt0zjfl-v7OpNe2K/view?usp=sharing

easy way to tell if your coils are smart or dumb, pull of the connector to the coil if it has 2 wires it is a dumb coil. If it has 3 or more wires it is a smart coil.

sounds like the same issue I was having where my fuel pump relay was not wired in so it is only giving fuel off of the initial prime then as soon as the prime is gone it dies. I would look and see if you have in fact wired up your fuel pump relay and if the settings for it are correct.

well the mystery issue has finally been solved it was in fact much to high of a master fuel level, the master fuel was set at 17 as that is where the car liked to start when it had the bad o2 sensor in the car. However after changing the sensor the car was now able to start with only changing the master fuel setting back down to 8. Now finally the car is responding to changes in the fuel map as it should and we have already taken the car around and began tuning its drivability but only under no heavy load, I am saving that for my tuner to handle I just need it drivable to get it to him safely. A massive thank you to everyone who has helped me on this, I love this community here and will always be a link ecu supporter and fan. I even managed to talk my buddy into getting a link for his 1990 eagle talon and we cannot wait to start getting that all set up!

do you mind if I send you a pm?

My bad I figured when you said " enrichment adjustment at idle" you were referring to the warmup enrichment table, that's my mistake. But sadly as stated above I could pull nearly all the fuel out of it in the area where it idled and no change in the AFR. The injectors are fuel injector clinic 550cc low impedance with resistor packs, you are correct the motor is a 2.0L still and base fuel pressure with the vac disconnected is 43.5psi I just put on my FPR the other night and set it.

ok I tried a few more sensors and still the same result being too rich like my other sensor were saying. I now believe when its reading .675 - .710 it is accurate the cars exhaust also smells heavily of fuel. Here is a tune file and a short log I just took can anyone please take a look and see if you spot anything funny. I still feel like maybe the injector dead time is wrong and do not know if that could cause this, my reasoning for this is while the engine was running I changed the master fuel down. When I did this I was able to start seeing big changes in the afr, I was able to get it to 1.0 but master fuel had to be set at 5ms to achieve that. I did not save that to the ecu and then reset it back to 17 where the car liked to cold start. I also tried to adjust the warmup enrichment table like @koracing suggested and it did not seem to do anything at all. I appreciate the help on this everyone https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LKwgedYwEwDHlaAg6fKSFMobinIS8lXt/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/168lZ9tgtUlGYP22V6mVuRwWZI9MTPBh8/view?usp=sharing

Sounds good Adam, I will see if I can track down a known good sensor and if not I will get one on order.

Interesting so then what would cause it to now be reading rich and barely changing to removing 20% fuel? It was hovering around .675 lambda, then when I removed the fuel could get it to see .710 lambda. Just scared to remove any more incase it's not reading properly and I really lean it out.

@Adamw do you know of any ways of finding out the calibration for a VW LSU 4.9 Lambda sensor? The numbers on the sensor are 03G 906 262 A and 686 07 9 06 when I try this sensor it says I am running very rich which I can believe and if I remove fuel it does show up on the gauge but I need to go down to 10% or more to get any drastic change and I feel like the sensors calibration is just not correct compared to the sensor aem supplies. I will be ordering a new sensor as I feel this pretty much confirms a dead sensor but it would be cool to know if we can get these to work as well.

I moved the sensor today from the where it was right before the hole in the exhaust, I put it where the factor narrow band sensor would go on the turbo elbow so it should read as accurate as possible. Unfortunately this made no change it still reads the exact same numbers. I tried unplugging the sensor as you asked and it does in fact read 1.00. I think this would confirm my suspicions that the sensor is dead but before I go out and spend 200$ on a new sensor, is there any other things I can try and is is safe to try and use sensor clean or some other product to maybe clean this thing ? when I took it out it was covered in soot so I know its running super rich.

Ok I will move the sensor on Friday and try again

ok will do, I do know that there is a hole in the exhaust just a little before the sensor on a flex pipe. I may try moving the sensor to the factory o2 location and see if the issue goes away after I try unplugging the sensor. If not I will try a new sensor and report back.

got another one for ya guys, got my wideband working in link now having an interesting issue, when I take the car for a drive the wideband reads lean constantly and sends the same signal to link with the lambda reading about 1.262. I took a small drive around the block a few times for around 10 or so mins to get a log to check my mixture map with. the mixture map then told me I was running lean ( already figured that ) so it added fuel in those areas. We made the changes and went for another spin around the block only this time the car was very hesitant and made no power. the numbers in the fuel table were originally around 34 in fuel table 1 and with the changes the mixture map made it bumped it into low 40s. when I make manual adjustments and put it back to 34 it runs a lot better. It almost feels like the fuel map percentage is backwards as I need to lower the number to even read on my wideband. would this indicate that I have a failing wideband sensor, or would incorrect injector dead times cause this?

thank you I believe I have now got the setting changed correctly, do these look better the wideband is a aem 30-4110. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d8zsC3SG5TLZbMuJJOyLzgmbxuFOoaah/view?usp=sharing

thanks I have uploaded it to google drive here is the file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwhJwgLT02QaqTwGG5HrdirfLAOdvATg/view?usp=sharing