ashesman

The ECU has "low level" outputs for ignition channels (as all factory and aftermarket ECU's do). these outputs are not powerful enough to directly drive coils and it is not desirable (for electrical noise reasons) to drive coils from inside the ECU. The amplifier (Igniter) provides the high current drive for the coils and can be placed near the coils keeping high current wiring short. NZEFI are doing a coil kit for RB engines...

Unfortuneately you have not given me enough information regarding the triggering arrangement. Older distributed Rover V8's had no sync pulse so could not run sequential injection. In that case the Sync Position will not matter. If it is a later Rover V8 with wasted spark arrangement and you have entered the firing order correctly, wired the coils correctly and set the base timing correctly then the engine will not run unless Sync Position is correct. As you said, this setting is the cylinder number that fires next after the sync pulse occurs. That can only be found by examining the actual engine position where the sync pulse occurs. Have you set your ignition timing correctly and is it completely stable while the engine is running? Acceleration enrichment is acheived by lengthening the injection pulses and is not dependent on injection mode (ie it will happen sequentially if Sequential mode is selected).  As far as your engine being like injection timing is out, It should not actualy make any major difference to the engines running this early in the project. It will not be until it is on a dyno with precise AFR meter will you realise the benefits of sequential injection. If you are unsure then select group fire mode until you get up and running. If it falls over after the burst, then I would check the settings of Master and Warmup Enrichment. Help for all tuning functions is described in the PCLink online help. Press F1 or right click and select 'Whats this?' for help on any tuning function.Â

Best contact Neil, he will be able to do the upgrade to PC tune...

OK, this ECU is an LEM with special software for AVO... It does not have PC tune (must be tuned with a hand held tuning module)... This ECU will run your engine but will have to be wired to the vehicle, there is no plug in option... It can be upgraded to V5 software which has PC tune... I know thats a short answer, but probably answers all your questions!

Pinout is almost identical, the biggest diference is that the ignition and injection wires on the LPG2 are wired Injector 1 to drive 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 etc... where the G1 was wired according to the firing order. So if you use group fire injection and a distributor it wont be a problem, otherwise some wire swaps will be required. However, as much as we discourage it, the G2 can have its firing order set to for example 1,2,3,4 which will fire in the same pattern as the G1. Best to swap wires and set the correct firing order in the ECU but...

The parker solenoid is the blue rectangle looking solenoid. If that is the one you were supplied then its OK. If you were supplied with the gold Subaru style solenoid then you may want to swap it.

Not yet...

I assume a universal Link is a LEM (V1 to V5)??? If so then yes it can be used to run a miata 1.6 (as wire in) but not convert to a plug in MiataLink. It may need to come back for a sub-board change depending on what board is fitted now. Also note that there is a LEM G3 AdpataLink plug-in solution for the Miata 1.6... May be cheaper if you have to pay someone to do the wiring...

You will most likely have to properly work out your injector dead times... It will also partially depend on fuel pressure.  This is done by running the vehicle on a dyno at a fixed load/RPM and increasing/decreasing battery voltage and adjusting the deadtime values to maintain a constant AFR. Usually you would start with the battery at its normal charging voltage, then disconnect the alternator, then load the battery down with a battery load tester... You will need a very precise AFR meter to do this. Remember the aim is to keep constan AFR with varying injector supply voltage.

G2/G3 ECU's have programmable outputs. Among a large list of preconfigured options you can use a general purpose output and configure it to operate with up to three logical conditions. Eg Turn ON if RPM > 1500 AND RPM < 6000 AND ECT > 60... Switch cams on between 1500 and 6000 RPM but only if engine temp is greater than 60 degrees (note that you could leave temperature out and just switch based on the two RPM conditions).

According to general calculations, 550cc injectors are good for about 440hp. This should also require a return of about 2.25 l/minute at full boost fuel pressure. Have you measured your fuel flow at full boost fuel pressure? From what I have seen, It takes a pretty modified EJ20 to get 440hp! Alost of guys will think this is possible until they get on the dyno. Even heavily modified race EJ20's will usually only acheive 400hp in street driveable fashion. As far as the fifth injector goes, I personally think it is a waste of time (my opinion only). It will make tuning difficult and really needs a special staged injection to control it only under power. Many a man has tried to run additional injectors and had to give up in frustration trying to get a combination of correct AFR's, good idle and smooth transition. In short, yes, it will be a mission. Run the smallest 4 injectors required to make enough power that will ensure you can still get good idle and cruise injection control. Bigger injectors DO NOT equal more power!Â

The LinkPlus G3 should be released within the next month. It has four channel continuously variable cam control as well as about 10 auxiliary outputs, any of which can be used for switched cam control. As far as a header or adapter board goes we may have something, but I am not sure what header the factory ECU has. If you were to supply a picture I will be able to tell you if we have headers in stock...

I would assume that if the RA had a fifth injector, it would of been used on motorsport models??? It is definitiely not as simple as just wiring it to an injector output. Why do you want to run the extra injector? Are you above 80% duty cycle at full power on the main injectors? Do you have adequate fuel delivery (have you measured it)? Running an extra injector will reduce your power output if air/fuel ratios are already correct... Best option is to increase the main injector size if you need additional fuel...

Hmmm, what do you mean vents out the pod? The BOV is independant of anything else. Make sure its vacuum line comes from a nice port in the plenum that is not too small. Dont 'T' it off anything else. Make sure it is adjusted with the spring tight enough to keep it shut at cruise... usually if it does not vent it is because the spring is too tight or the vacuum source is t'd into something else that reduces the vacuum signal. The fact that you cant get more than 8psi suggests a BCS plumbing problem or wiring problem. The BCS can only increase boost, not decrease it. Are you sure the BCS is actually working? You will need to tune the boost control senstivity and base values also. Make sure your boost targets in the zone table dont just go straight to you target boost value at low RPM. They should almost folllow the boost curve that the engine produces for best reults. Best not to use a cut to check BCS operation. Use a boost gauge or the MAP reading on the tuning module or PCLink.

OK, I had a better read of that web page... Yeah, that motor just requires switched cam control. Probably best use an LEM G3 or a LinkPlus G2 if the budget allows (biggest gain for you will be better economy and transitions from sequential injection). All that is needed is some detials about the triggering arrangement on the engine. In particular the number of teeth on the cam and crank sensors, their spacing and the sensor type...

LEM V3 is probably about 10 years old, so no it wont support VVT control... It can do switched cam control like MIVEC and VTEC, but not continuously VVT control. I would think that for any engine with VVT control you should use a more advanced ECU than the LEM V3...

LEM G3 has a 5 bar MAP sensor option that must be specified at time of order. High boost unit is about 10% extra. We have tested a 92-95 Civic plug in adapter. Honda pinouts vary so much that it will be impossible to cover all models... If someone was to place an order for enough ECU's of a specific model we would consider doing an adapter to suit...

It would seem that you have got the LinkPLus wiring manual !!! Connect the boost slenoid to the brown/white wire (AUX1 or RPM SW.)...

Most toyota's use a Crank position sensor and a Cam position sensor on the variable cam. The cam positions sensors effective position moves relative to the crank with cam advance position... But yeah, we would need some more information on this setup...

The LinkPlus G3 which is in stock but will not be released for about six weeks has four channel PID CVVT control. This has been used to control subaru cams to within 0.1 degree accuracy with super quick response. Switching the exhaust cam is no problem we have that covered already. However we would need to know more about the engines crank angle sensor arrangement and cam position sesnor...

Done...

The decision has been made to build the boards. I will implement some changes to run the GTB engine, but it will be in wasted spark configuration (fire two coils at once) otherwise the V3-4 adapter will be unnecessarily complicated. I have no vehicle to test it on. Basically I will split the ign drives to save joining wires in the loom...

Yeah, there is no input provision anyways. If you find it sucks your idle speed down to low, put an air bipass valve on that is wired to the compressor clutch to step the idle up.

The factory GTS solenoid can be used for up to about 15 psi boost, but a better result is obtained using a three port soledoid for any boost level. Contact [email protected] to purchase a solenoid.

You most definitely will need a supressor on the coil positive terminal. From the wiring diagram it looks like you have it all sorted anyway. Connect the yellow wire to the G2's Ign1 channel. Connect the supressor to the red wire and ground as close as possible to the coil.