ashesman

First things first... Is it a miss or detonations (I assume thats what you mean by spark knock?). First thing to check on the LinkPlus is the Trigger Error Counter under the diagnostics menu. That will tell you if the engine is loosing its timing reference and shifting the ignition timing. Also watch what happens to the RPM value in PCLink or on the tuning module when the fault ocurs. This should also be confirmed with a timing light. If the engine is loosing timing control then 20psi of boost + detonation will kill your motor super fast. Other thing to check is intake temperatures. Is the intake temp gettintg too high? If it is a miss, I wouldn't put it past plugs, leads and coils. A shit load of spar5k energy is required at 20 psi, but with plugs gapped to 26" (about 0.6mm) you should be OK. Think outside the square a little too. I have seen cars that run out of fuel flow after a while of running and go lean due to creating a vacuum in the fuel tank or picking up a bit of shit!! You will need to put some diagnostic gear on and determine if it is missing, knocking (detonating), going lean or a combination of those...

CLL is nearing the top of the "To do" list. We have just completed a new special rotary software and stepper idle control, so CLL is gettting nearer by the day!

Sorry, cant fix the weather ... we are in the middle of summer and it has rained and blown so hard for the last week that my favourite mountain bike track will have washed out!!!

Most intake runners with variable length just switch ON/OFF. If you are planning to try and have a continuously variable length runner then you will need a closed loop control algorithm like a PID controller or similar. There are enough conditions for the GP output to have a reasonably clever control of the motor. Best to use IAT if you can. IAT is one of the reasons that the G2/G3 platforms have such a stable and repeatable tune. You request has been put on the "Things people have asked for" list and will no doubt be added one day...

OK, the OEM ECU cant be compared here... they have spent millions tuning it to suit your exact engine!  You can try tuning the lower RPM and vacuum zones to try and correct that mixture going lean. Also adding some advance in the lower areas may improve this. Make sure you have the volt correction set correctly. The way to do this is to make sure that your mixture stays reasonably constant as voltage decreases, but load may also remain constant (ie fans must not come on). What you need is more air bled into the engine. This is usually acheived by stepping up idle when the fan comes on. All factory ECU's step idle up when the fan is turned on. The adjustment is called 'Fan Step' I think.

The problem here is an idle speed control issue. The idle speed needs to be increased when the fans turn on to allow for the increased electrical load. You may also need to look at the amount of current the fans are drawing to determine why the battery voltage is getting low. Is the battery good? It should be able to maintain more than 9.7 volts with reasonable electrical load even if the alternator is not charging. Is the ECU shutting down, is the engine leaning out and stopping, or is it stalling due to not enough air for the amount of load?

Good idea... I'll mention about adding analog inputs and temp inputs as an option. What types of extra inputs do you need? Also note that it is the amount of I/O tghat differentiates between ECU price levels...

Some transmission functions can be controlled with the G2, but it ios not a transmission controller. I dont know anything about a GM4L80 trans but I think it would be safe to assume that the G2 wont be able to control it...

The fans a hard one, you really want it to come on when IAT exceeds a certain value, then go off when it goes below that value. The problem with switching it on under boost is heat soak. The intercooler will get hot, then when you come off boost the fan will switch off and the intercooler will remain hot for some time. If the fan keeps going, it will cool the intercooler faster... Unfortuneately there is no one here to ask at the moment (I am only really involved in G2/G3 ECU's), but check that the IC spray drive does not pulse or PWM.

I think we have covered that one .... Its call PCLink!!! (excuse the sarcasm) PCLink can display all runtime data on a PC/laptop in the form of plots, graphs, graphical gauges and all the other limits, setting and tables. You will need a SerialLink or ComLink to plug your laptop in. PCLink is a free downlaod (you need V2.5)...

OK, it is most likely an LEM (rectange box) or LinkPlus G1 (squareish box). Very unusual to use a LinkPlus on a 4AGE. Chances are that it is an LEM. You will have to lift the lid off it and check what verion it is. Dont touch anything in there in case you static damage it. If it has V4 or V5 on the stickers inside then it can be tuned with a laptop or tuning module if it has V1, V2 or V3 then it will be tuning module only. To do laptop tuning you will need to purchase a SerialLink if your laptop has a serial port or a ComLink if your laptop has USB only.  All those ECU's were compatible with the hand held tuning module. Tuning modules can be purchased new but it is far cheaper to do laptop tuning option...

They would of definitely have been compatible with the tuning module, but the tech whos knows about them is away today, so I cant actually tell you if they are PC tuneable to be honest. Contact performance developments in california, their details are on the dealers page of this web site. I think the units were called TurboLinks. Edelbrok shafted us on those and most of them were converted to FuelLink's. Perhaps the better option is to use a Plug-In replacement ECU??? Contact Neil at Performance Developments for more help.

Enough people asked and it was a reasonably simple modification, so we did it! So far those people havn't come to the party with orders, but I think there is enough interest for it to work. It was decided on about three weeks ago but wasn't issued in the pricelist yet.

Done... LEM can be upgraded to 5 bar map sensor for extra 10% on purchase price... The map sensor fitted to the ECU is selected in PCLink... Tell the people in your workshop!!!

Done... LEM can be upgraded to 5 bar map sensor for extra 10% on purchase price... The map sensor fitted to the ECU is selected in PCLink... Tell the people in your workshop!!!

OK, so this forum has been started to get some feedback from our users... List your ideas and wishes for new prioducts, ECU features etc... here. No promises that your wishes will be granted, but would give us an idea of what people are thinking... Dont be shy, if you have a suggestion post it here....

A new firmware version V1.3.4 has been released. Biggest improvement is the addition of closed loop knock control for G2 ECU's (and to come soon for G3 (not LEM) ECU's). There is also a fix for running inverted ignition mode on an LEM G3...

Just posting a reply to make sure forums are working properly as the web site people have been doing some work... No need to reply to this... Thanks Ashley

Yes it has boost control. Can use pretty muchly any solenoid you pleas. At present boost control is open loop (easy to tune and works pretty well), but closed loop will be released as a future firmware update for free. A/C input is a digital input that you configure as A/C Input through PCLink. Tacho output is an auxiliary output that you configure as Tacho through PCLink (I think Tacho is only available on certain auxiliary outputs..)

Engine not a problem ... but you will have to track down a proper trans controller... They can usually be more expensive than a manual conversion! Ring some auto-trans shops, they may have a solution, may even be able to convert the auto to manual shift! Try call in Peter Hayes at Autotrans in Christchurch he's pretty clued up on that sort of stuff...

Volts correction is used for injector deadtime correction. It adjusts injector opening time as injectors open slower when the battery voltage is lower... All injector pulse times are compensated for injector dead time. Note that this adjustment usually only alters open time by about 500us (500 millionths of a second), so has little effect on the large pulse widths that can occur during cranking.

I always though that the plenum was a good spot, after all thats where you want to keep the boost pressure constant, but this can cause additional delays in the control loop and create boost spikes (which should be able to be tuned out with EBC). But some say the turbo outlet, is better! Just depends what actually works best...

Just noticed in your email to the tech's, that you are still getting trigger errors... You must fix these before doing anything else. Is your ECU setup for your motor? Does it have the correct sub-board fitted?

This is the exact reason why blow-off valves were invented. If the throttle is slammed shut, a large rush of air will build up against the throttle plate, then bounce bake and smash into the turbo. If you are lucky it will all just bounce around until it dissipates, but if you are unlucky it will damage the compressor wheel... It doesn't really matter what the EBC is doing as when the throttle shuts, there will be too little exhaust flow to keep generating boost anyways. Put a good blow off valve somewhere before the throttle body (usually placed after the intercooler). When the throttle is hut, the pressure differential (vacuum on one side from the manifold and pressure on the other in the intake pipe) will cause the valve to open immediately and dump all that air that is building up against the throttle plate. Will also help to reduce the amount your turbo slows down during gear changes...

The valve should be wired as shown in the LinkPlus wiring manual. Place 12V (from an ignition switched source) on the centre terminal and ground the two windings through the ECU.   It should be set up as ISC Solenoid, not t stepper. If using a G2 ECU, then you will need to set up one drive as ISC Solenoid, and one as ISC Slave. There should be no troubles getting this solenoid working with the LinkPlus. All LinkPlus high power drives are ground switching. You may also have to make sure you have ISC Open and ISC closed wired up around the correct way. Sounds like you just about have it sorted. Take the ground off the centre terminal and put +12V (switched) on it and you should be all go.