ashesman

For the 4G63, set priority to sync. Note that the 4G63 triggers dont occur at the same time, so sync/cyl priority is not an issue and either setting will work. As far as advance goes at crank, this is what is refered to as the 'base timing'. With the engine running at about 2000RPM, set the Advance Limit to 0. Set the timing using a timing light to whatever you want your base timing to be (usually 10 degrees). That will give you 10 degrees of timing at crank...Â

If you have a PC tuneable PossumLink ECU then under the Options menu in PCLink you can select TPS Setup and follow the instructions. The reason you cannot get a TPS value of 10 may be to do with the TPS sensor itself. Firstly test the TPS signal line with a multi meter. Open the throttle very slowly and check that the voltage steadily increases from about 0.5-1V up to about 4.5-5V (the actual values are not critical as long as it smoothly increases). Adjust the TPS position very slightly so that closed throttle is in a different position. Do another TPS setup and see how you get on. Having a TPS value of 9 or 11 instead of 10 is not a problem anyways...

OK, thqat unit is called a USBLink. They were a short lived product that evolved into the COMLink (USB and Serial). I have attached the correct drivers. Download the .zip file. Extract it. When the windows hardware installation program asks tfor the driver CD, choose "Install from a specified location". Select the driver folder from the download. Things should be OK from there...

Lumpy cams would be considered a major mod. It will upset the manifold vacuum and volumetric efficiency of the engine. As the factory ECU was mapped around these parameters, it is unlikely you will get the best out of it on the factory ECU. If you can find someone who can chip the factory ECU by tuning it properly rather than just plugging in a "per-tuned chip" (be very wary of those!) then you can go for it. I would recommend going to aftermarket engine management rather than chipping. You will also get the other benefits of aftermarket systems such as motorsport features and the ability to adjust the tune when you need to (ie further mods)... For a price on the LEM G3 contact [email protected] as it is policy not to put prices on these forums...

By pyro's to each exhaust, I mean fitting a temperature sesnor and display device to each exhaust pipe near the head and then trimming the fueling/ignition for each cylinder to acheive even exhaust temperatures. This is something only done by high end race engine builders! LinkPlus G1 does not have individual cylinder trimming. It can SWITCH variable valve timing, but does not change the fuel map. You need a LinkPlus G2 to do that.

We are just about to received our first shipment of LEM G3 ECU's. This is the replacement for the now obsolete LEM V5. The LEM G3 is based on the G3 software platform so offers a new level of tuneability not available in the old LEM V5. For those of you who were LEM V5 fans, you will be pleased to know that the LEM G3 is a similar wire-in ECU (with a few more wires), uses the same case style and has internal MAP sensor. Installation is basically the same as the old LEM V5. Tuning can be as simple as the old LEM V5 or you can turn on some of the more advanced tuning features. It also has on board USB ... no more SerialLinks or ComLink's. check out the web page HERE.

Hmmm, nobody in Sydney with the equipment to do the chip replacement. I would recommend talking to AVO Turboworld in Melbourne. We can send them the chip and they will fit it. That will save the cost and time of sending the ECU back to NZ. As far as I know there is an option in the ECU to select 3 bar map sensor (contact [email protected] for more info - no reply til tuesday due to public holiday). The calibration is for a GM Map sensor. AVO will be able to help you with this also.Â

Unfortuneately your STI is what we call a version 10. The WRXLink is designed only for versions 7-9 so does not have DBW controll. As far as our research indicates, the factory ECU does not control ABS and Centre Diff, these are run by independent controllers. The ECU may take input from these controllers however. As far as injector sizing goes, there is no upper limit on injector size. The WRXLink can do staged injection which would allow you to run two sets of smaller injectors and get some of your driveability back. The only things it cant control will be the cruise control as that is part of the DBW system. But all this is irrelevant as it will not plug in to your car (V10 has a four row header, WRXLink has 3 row)! Our best solution would be the LinkPlus G3 (to be released in approximately 6 weeks). It has all the tuning features of the WRXLink G3, has a DBW controller. note that this will be a wire in ECU...

Da best enigne management wud be a LEM G3. Unless you are planning on building a super flash motor for racing then the LEM G3 would be OK.  However, a G2 would be be the one to choose if you have spent alot of loot on the engien and want the best tuneability.

The upgrade is up to you. I would recommend using it and then deciding if the idle is inadequate. For a price contact a Link Dealer. Some of our dealers can do the upgrade while others will return it to NZ. PCLink V2.5 is the correct version for this ECU.

WRX99R is the latest version. There are very few differences between Q and R versions. Both are PC tuneable. Basically version R has a slightly better idle speed control.

LEM G3 has on board 2.5 bar (1.5 Bar boost) MAP sensor similar to the early LEM. There is no extra cost associated with the MAP sensor...

Vcc is a common electrical engineering term for power supply. VTA will most likely be the throttle position signal. IDL will be the idle switch (not used on the LEM). So you should measure a constant resistance between VCC and E2 when the throttle is moved. Connect the +5V to Vcc and Earth to the signal ground. Connect the TPS signal wire to VTA. Remember to set the throttle span on the LEM.

As long as it has software version 'q' or onwards then it will be PC tuneable. Use PCLink version 2.5. Dont use any of the PCLink version 3 releases as these are meant for G2 and G3 ECU's. They will probably work on old ECU's but have not been tested for backwards compatibility.

Those are pretty good relevant questions! OK, the G2 vs G3. Both run the same softwre platform for tuning the key differences are as follows: LinkPlus G2: 8 Cylinder Sequential Injection (Allows control of injector timing and individual cylinder fuel trimming) 8 Ignition Drives (allows direct spark on a V8) - Spare Ig drives cant be Aux Outs. 11 Auxiliary Outputs3 Digital InputsLEM G3: Group Fire Injection4 Ignition Drives (Use two for twin distributor and the other two for extra Auxiliary Outs)8 Auxiliary Outputs1 Digital Input When would you use one not the other? Well, you would use the G2 when you have a late model Lexus V8 or Nissan V8 with 8 coils. You would use the G2 for racing where you wanted to use the digital inputs for switches (to enable launc control and antilag remotely). You would use a G2 if you were going to fit pyro's to each exhaust and balance the cylinders. If you are doing a road car, jet boat or basic race application, then the LEM G3 would run the engine very well, still allows a high degree of tuneability and saves a few bucks. Most 1UZFE applications use a LEM. The DisplayLink is a display only, so you cant adjust anything in the ECU with it. PCLink will allow you to view and adjust all ECU functions. However the DisplayLink is practical to leave in a vehicle permanently for diagnostics and monitoring where a laptop is not. The DisplayLink also has onboard data logging. Hope this helps...

A would suggest a LinkPlus G2 as it has 8 Ignition and Injection drives so you can run 8 coils and full sequential fuel injection. It also has the Barometric and intake temp correction (along with all the other bells and whistles) that you need for an engine like that.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that no wiring information is provided (basically we cant provide accurate information for every variation of every model... For a price contact your nearest Link delaer. Sorry, it is policy not to put pricing on these forums...

WRXROADq or WRXROADr are PC tunable so if your ECU has those numbers you are OK, otherwise it will need an upgrade. Contact your nearest Link dealer for an upgrade price. Sorry I cant list prices in these forums.

All adapters are definitely not created equal. However, we are yet to find one that wont talk to the ECU. It is the USB side that gives grief. In most cases it is a driver installation fault. Go to the control panel - system - hardware - device manager and see if there are any incorrectly installed devices (when the adapter is plugged in). Also check for the adapters 'COM' number under 'COM and LPT' section.

Free download for www.LinkECU.com in the support section...

All Version 10 LinkPlus ECU's are just straight wire-in ECU's with full fuel and ignition control. they can be stand alone or piggy back depending on how they are wired. It is definitely PC tuneable. Use PCLink version 2.5. Where possible connect to the ECU using a direct serial connection. If you think that there might be a communications fault, send it to a Link dealer for testing...

As long as your loom has connectors that will plug in to that header (which it should do) then it will work. you may have to unplug your ECU for a look. Note that some ECU's only use three of the four connectors...

Connect to the sensor ground wire... or the signal ground back at the ECU. Either way, the sensor ground wire is connected to the signal ground wire just inside the ECU. I would wire to the sensor ground ... thats what its there for! Technically it wont make a lot of difference as long as they are grounded to one of these wires near to the ECU.

To get it out of the way, this is NOT a typical ECU fault. In fact I have never heard of it.  If the ECU was to go lean, it would be on all cylinders not just one. OK, well you have established that for some reason the front two cylinders ran lean and fried... First impressions would suggest an injector fault. Get them independently tested on a flow bench. It is unlikely they would be that bad, but definitely possible. I dont want to point fingers, but it is most likely a tuning fault that caused this. Maybe when it was tuned, the mixture measued at the tail pipe was an average of the four rich (tooo rich) cylinders and the two lean cylinders??? Another posibility is a fuel delivery problem. Very common on these cars. Maybe when the fuel supply starts running short it is the front cylinders that suffer? I would definitly recommend doing a fuel delivery test. I would have the injectors tested (and also consider if they will be big enough for the power you want), make sure the pump can deliver enough fuel (experience says that a 300zx or Bosh motorsport pump will need to be fitted), test all coil packs and HT leads, then tune the motor cautiously on a dyno stopping every now and then to check the state of the cylinders that ran lean...

Connect the negative sensor wires to the supplied ground wire in the screened cables (not the braided sheild). I think the wire colours are green and brown (one in each screened cable). Run the screened cable all the way to the pickups if possible for best results.