ashesman

Either source will be OK. Whatever suits for the wiring...

Answers: 1 - No all settings will be permanently stored forever in the ECU's non-volatile memory. Disconnect the battery for as long as you like. 2 - Just jump start as normal. Do not 24 Volt jump start it however. 3 - As I said for the first question... Re-wiring from scratch with a new loom is the only good way to truly weed out those intermittent electrical fault gremlins!!!

Have a look at the skyline forum sites like skylines downunder. There is bound to be a spec sheet somewhere. Someone there will know the switch points.

All Link products use ground switching for the injector drives. Connect an ignition switched 12V source to one side of the injectors and the orange wire to the other side of all the injectors (ie wire all four in parallel). If they are high impedance (ie > 6 ohm) then they can be wired without any ballast resistor. Download the LEM V5 wiring manual as this gives more info on injector wiring. Also note that it may be possible that four extra injectors may give alot more additional fuel than is actually required. If you are only just requiring a little bit more fuel then you may have trouble trimming four injectors to operate at very low duty cycle range.

Hmmmm, if you are using a Serial-USB convertor cable and it has been installed correctly (which it sounds like it has if you can see it on COM4) and a SerialLink then there should be no issues. If using USB to serial then there will be no automatic detection of the Link ECU, only automatic detection of the Serial-USB convertor. PCLink will establish the communications. There are a few other possibilities:  - Your USB-Serial convertor is not being picked up correctly. Use the windows 'Device Manager' (found in the Control panel under 'System' then 'Hardware' (tab). Open the 'COM & LPT' part of the tree list of devices. Unplug the Serial-USB convertor and plug it back in to make sure it disappears and comes back. This will also show its com port number. Make sure it does not have an exclamation mark beside it. - Your ECU is too old for PC tune. It must have firmware version q or later. If it has anti-lag then it will not have PC tune. So for plug in Subaru ECU's you will need software versions like WRXRoadq or WRX Roadr. The last letter indicates the software version. Also note that for 99 models, only version r is PC tunable. You will have to take the lid off the ECU to find this number. All LinkPlus ECU's are PC tunable and LEM (rectangle box) ECU's are PC tunable on versions V4 and V5.

Yes, it will work on the way back down ... I have done a rough drawing for you but cant attach it for some reason (which I will look into). Send your email address and I will send it direct to you. But to be clear, there is no switching of any 12V supplies.

LinkPlus G2 c an do this using a GP Outout configured for multiple conditions, but as you are talking about Drive A and Drive B, I assume its an early LinkPlus? If that is the case, then you are on the right track with the two relays. Rather than switching the solenoids +12V (as this will probably be supplied in the factory loom), run the solenoids ground wire through a normally closed relay to drive A. Turn drive A on at 1700 RPM. Use drive b to switch the relay on (open the contacts) at 4700 RPM. that will turn the solenoid off. That way you only need one relay and dont have to touch the power supply. Most 5 terminal relays have a normally closed set of contacts labelled 30 and 87a.

You can download the LinkPlus wiring manual from HERE.  Link provides no vehicle specific wiring information as it is impossible to ensure that the information is exactly correct and matches the vehicle. Look on the Subaru formus and you will have no trouble finding a pinout. Most wiring in the Subaru is pretty straight forward and can be determined using a multi-meter. Any trouble sorting out the wiring and you should probably take the car to a good auto sparky...

Try driving the tacho from the ECU's tacho signal and see if it works OK. Dont send a high level to the tacho if its a low level one or it will probably blow up. It will most likely be low level as high level tachos were only used in older (about pre 90's) stuff.

LinkPlus G2 does not and will not control AVCS, however, the WRXLink G3 has a very good AVCS control system (refer to PCLink V3.21). The next release of the LinkPlus (G3) will have a full featered four channel AVCS control. This will be released before the end of the year...

First check is to make sure the battery voltage isn't getting low enough to reset the ECU during cranking. You will see this on the tuning module as it will go blnk for a while, or PCLink will bring up a warning. The best check is to crank the motor and look for a stable RPM value (on the tuning module or PCLink). If this value is not correct then it will either be a crank/cam sensor fault (or wiring fault) or an ECU ground fault. Make sure the ground wires from the ECU are connected to the engine block. Also make sure the ignitor ground wire is connected to the engine block. The only way to test the ignitor is to send it back for testing. Sometimes those engines (especially a second handd import one) can have water and corrosion problems. Check the distributor caps are dry inside. Check the plug tubes are dry and that the spark plugs are good. Note that those motors have a habit of sticking the injectors shut when they have been dry for a while.

If you are using a Link ignitor then it wont matter which wire you use. Probably best to use the one from the ECU. Check where the factory signal comes from....

Yes, contact a Link dealer to purchase a new cable, they aren't very expensive...

As far as I know, we have never dealt directly with Marcos enginering, but that is not to say that one of our delaers havn't. I would be surprised if they would give up their maps as it would of cost them heaps to develop. Best contact them directly. Again, you would not expect to get their power figures just by using their numbers. In fact it is possible that their numbers would make your engine produce less power than standard if they are doing differnt mods or running a different fuel system.  Let me know if you get in touch with them anyways, I would be interested to know if they are using our ECU's.

Jet Boat Base in Christchurch have done a few, Andre at Speedtech apparently knows a bit about them, Gary at PAD in Christchurch has apparently done a turbo one. I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the Marcos config. LS ECU's are sold LS1 with base tune numbers which are generally a pretty good start. Not many people have much success using other peoples maps, so be a little careful there. Is best to get the ECU tuned exactly for your engine and modifications...

G2 has been used on LS1 and LS2/LS7 engines before. Best bet would be to contact Neil at Performance Developments in California as he knows his way round these engine pretty well...

This older style ECU does not use the air flow meter at all. You can remove it if you want. It uses the factory MAP sensor. If you get it tuned well enough you will be able to not use closed loop. Closed loop has its applications but it should only be used on a well tuned engine...

There are some discrepencies around that year as to what ECU was fitted. The only way you will know if the WRXLink will fit your car will be to have a look at your ECU and check if it has the same header as the one in the WRXLink picture. It will most likely have a large grey four row header. In that case it will not fit.

They will need to download PCLink V2.5 (not version 3.x). But this most likely will not be the problem. It it most likely that they have not installed the COMLink or USBLink correctly. There is a particular set of instructions that must be followed when installing the drivers for the COMLink or USBLink. Both drivers and installation instructions can be downloaded from this site. If they plugged the USBLink or COMLink in before installing the drivers as described in the instructions, then they will need to uninstall the drivers before they can continue (this is done in the windows device manager). Anyways, the following points should be observed: Your ECU must be PC tunable. Contact thor to find out if it is.You must connect the COMLink or USBLink to the ECU with the ribbon cable BEFORE powering up the ECU (turning the key on).Use PCLink version 2.5 ... download HERE.Install the drivers ... (download HERE) according to the instructions (download HERE).Contact your Link dealer if you are still stuck.

This ECU is an old style version 5-6 WRX plug-in ECU. In fact it is so old that it does not have PC tune. But yes, this would be suitable for a road car. You will need a Link tuning module to tune it.

I agree, dont use the ECU in the twin turbo. Firstly it cant control the twin turbo system and secondly it wont actually go !!! These were designed for earlier single turbo RS legacy's. You will have to do a single turbo conversion and use a wire-in ECU for this car.

I can 100% confirm that the WRXLink ECU has AVCS control (a very precise control in fact) for version 7 to 9 (post bug eye, but not V10). Download the latest PCLink and have a look at the sample .pcl file. This shows all AVCS control adjustments. Our old 44S ecu did not have AVCS control. This ECU is not just an advancement on the old ECU, it is a complete new ECU using a much more powerful processor and much more sophisticated software system.

The base settings can be obtained from doing a reload (this will restore everything to its default settings). If you are looking for a pretuned map, then I would strongly advise against this. Pay the money and get a professional tuner to dyno tune your engine. It will be the cheapest horsepower you can buy... A lot of people have asked for base maps on these forums, but seldom get a response as engines and mods vary too much for one persons settings to suit anothers.

WRXLink has cam control for AVCS on all version 7-9 WRX/STI.  The years of each version may change depending on your country. But yes it has a very precise cam position control system. This can be configured and tuned, or just use the factory settings. The WRXLink comes wirth Anti-lag, launch control and flat shifting as standard. To run without the air flow meter, you will need to unplug the AFM (and remove it if you want) and wire an air temperature sensor to the AFM connector (instructions are provided). If your engine has a factory fitted intake air temp sensor in the manifold (such as 03 c-spec) then this mod will not be required at all.

This is an unusual problem!!! Never had a situation where the hard limit was exceeded before! Try upgrading to the latest G2 firmware for a start. Check your trigger setup. Make sure that you have the correct RPM limit values set for the engine temperatures. Also amke sure that you have the hard limit addition set to the number of RPM that it will occur above the soft limit. eg a soft limit at 7000RPM whit a hard limit addition of 200RPM will cause a sft limit at 7000RPM and a hard limit at 7200RPM. this goes for all RPM limits including launch and flat shifting. Any further problems, post you .cpl file and we will have a look...