ashesman

OK, the LED is doing what is supposed to... dont ask why, but that is what it does... As far as comms goes, I need to know how you are connecting to the ECU. are you using a direct serial connection, or a USB-serial converter? Have you selected the correct com port in the PCLink options-connections menu item?

Oh yeah, contact [email protected] or your nearest Link dealer for a price. You might also need to send a picture of your connectors to make sure you get the right HeaderLink.

Plugs into the ones that usually connect to the subaru ECU, so I guesss you could say the ones in the cabin. I think for a conversion, you would be better to do a full re-wire. Use athe 2m loom and run the wires all the way (unbroken and unsoldered) to where they need to go. This will give you the tidiest and most reliable install. Remember that the V5 will only use a fraction of the wiress in that factory loom, so you will end up with a lot of spare wires tucked away.

I have heard of people just bolting another one on top of the first one (only works for donut type). Otherwise you will have to bolt another one to the block just below the head surface in the middle. Maybe the best thing would be just to run the KnockLink and leave knock out of the G2. Note (a little inside info) that Knock Control for the G2 will be released in the next firmware update, so keep that in mind...

You will not be able to wire reliably to the plug without splicing and soldering to the wires behind the header plugs. Best thing would be to buy a HeaderLink board that will plug into the factory header and then you can solder to the special pads on that... Unfortuneately I dont have a wiring diagram...

The ECU can not drive a coil directly. You must drive the coils through an igniter. You can use various igniters, but the safest option is to replace the 4 channel CA18 igniter. Otherwise buy a Link igniter and use that.

Dont share a knock sensor for more than one device. It will load down the knock signal and give reduced knock measurement to both devices. In geek terms, the output impedance of the knock sensor is very high, so easily loaded down... Best install a seperate sensor.

Chances are we will have something to do the job but are a bit unfamilia with that vehicle model. Best bet is to talk to someone in the know about WRX/STi's and get them to tell you what engine/ECU is used. We offer a plug in solution for all WRX/STi models from V1 to V9...

To tune ignition, you will use experience to come up with a sensible set of numbers, then run the vehicle on the dyno using the KnockBlock to make sure that detonation is not occurring. Ignition will then be advanced or retarded and the effect on torque/power measured on the dyno. Best ignition is generally the most advance that causes torque to stop increasing, not the amount of ignition just before detonation occurrs (put over simply!). KnockBlock has three frequency settings to allow it to be adjusted for different sensors and engines. It can be used on an engine with any number of pots and can use one or two sensors. Good to log 0-5V on the dyno along with the other plots.

First thing we need to know is what engine you are running, which ECU you are running, (ie what version of that ECU v10 or V14?).... In fact, if you can, send a .pcl file and we will have a look.

If you think it is an ECU fault, then send it back for testing. Another posibility is the ignition phasing. Some variations of Honda distributors can cause cross fire if they are rotated too far when setting the timing. However, this is usually a problem at high RPM, not idle. Best send the ECU back for testing. Wouldn't hurt to also send the distributor also. Contatc [email protected] for more help or ring Simon at Link.

Cost hasn't been confirmed yet. Contact [email protected] as it is policy not to put prices in these forums...

Ok... the LEM is shipping with launch control and flat shifting. At this stage anti-lag is disabled. Anti-lag will be released in the LEM in the next firmware update. This will be group A antilag. Group N antilag will only be available in higher model ECU's. The EVOLink G2 has completely sold out and has been replaced with the EVOLink G3. The EVOLink G3 is almost identical spec wise to the WRXLink G3 and will be shipping in about a month (we are awaiting arrival of stock). This is a plug in ECU for EVO 1-8. There is no reason not to use the LEM in you race car as long as it meets your requirements spec wise...

Have you had this ECU tuned? The popping noise and detonation will most likely be due to the engine being exceptionally lean, or the timing being way out. Set the base timing as described in the manual (by setting the advance limit to zero, then setting the base timing with a timing light). Best consult an experienced engine tuner otherwise you may damage your engine...

Ummm, nope... Best give some of the Honda forums a go or contact a cam grinding shop as they may have that information.

 A good combination of dual popst coils and igniters is a mitsubishi VR4/EVO setup. Link also sell a dual channel igniter that will do the job. Note that you may need to have the ECU configured (by means of a subboard swap) if it is not set up for the triggering arrangement you wish to use.

Definietly not! You can not map/tune an engine by detonation... You would use this device as a tuning tool to detect detonation should you give an engine too much timing for a particular load. It is not recommended to tune an engine by reaching detonation then backing the timing off. Note that maximum power is not usually made where the ignition advance is set just before the point detonation occurs (contrary to popular belief). Uses the KnockBlock as a tuning aid to detect detonation if it is occurring due to incorrect tuning numbers, not as the sole device to map an engine.

Most likely reason for no start is failed trigger signals or power supply. Ideally you need a hand controller for checking each of those. Use the multimeter, make sure the ECU's power wire remains above about 8 volts during cranking. Check all the wiring to the distributor, ignitor, coil and injectors. Failing those checks, best contact a tuning shop and get them to sort it.

You will have to time stamp each line of samples from each device at the PC when it is saved. This will mean you will probably have to record two seperate log files and when you display them you will order the samples by time and plot them at the time they occurred. The ECU will not send periodically unless you are requersting periodically, even then it will only send when it has time. So timestamping at the PC will be required...

It can be plugged in to a laptop with a SerialLink, but not tuned with PCLink. The ECU will pump out information to the laptop that can be viewed with an old program called ComLink.

Details on serial comms protocols for all ECU's are kept confidential. This is a decision made by management years ago. Innovate has a fixed sample rate around 12 and a bit Hz. I will let you in on a little secret however. The sample rate of the LinkPlus depends on how often you request the data stream. There is an upper limitation of about 20Hz on this. As far as synchronisation goes, this should not be an issue if you are properly time stamping samples as the arrive from both sources... Sorry I can tgive out more information.

VLLink was never PC tuneable. You will have to use the tuning module. Best bet is to ring round tuning shops until you find one with a tuning module. Otherwise check out the dealer list on this web site for where to purchase one. Cost will depend on who you buy it from and freight...

There is no direct provision in the ECU for auto transmission control. In some cases auxiliary outputs could be used to switch solenoids or auto parts. As I am unsure of how much of the transmission the factory ECU controls I cant really answer your question. My recommendation would be to leave the factory ECU controlling the transmission and maybe som e other stuff and piggy back the Link ECU to give you full control of stuff like fuel, ignition and boost etc... Best get a professional installer to fit the ECU.

I think what David meant was that you could bring your wideband signal from your Innovate controller in to the ECU either through the factory O2 sensor wire (ie disconnect factory sensor), or you could wire it to the XS connector on the ECU's circuit board. The ECU can be calibrated to suit your wideband controller. You can then log and tune using this signal. I would recommend fitting the wideband sesnor permanently and forget about the narrow band sensor...

Hmm, you can do as many other mods as you would like. Ask an engine builder what other mods are required to fit your cams. For best results go to forced induction! All I meant is that a chip wont allow you to get a tune that exactly matches your engine...