Fintank11
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Posts posted by Fintank11
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@DerekAE86 why did I not cop this, in fairness I bought the gauge a couple years ago before buying the pressure sensor. Do you think it could work or would you recommend a different brand. Thanks
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Hi Guys,
Trying to wire in my Racetech 4 wire oil pressure gauge along with my 10 bar link oil pressure sensor. Can you advise which wires to tap into to make it work correctly as ive wired it as it says in manual and it just shoots up to 8 bar when pressure sensor reading 2 on pc.
Thanks
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Update:
Changed the running in oil for some semi synthetic 10w40 and allowed car to idle up to 72 degrees where the oil pressure dropped to 39 psi @960 rpm. (Car cuts out due to ignition timing and fuel the hotter it gets, it likes the coke start enrichment).I think when receives run in map it will continue to drop pressure and be ok. I’m wiring in a race tech oil pressure gauge this week also.
New tps fitted and my sticky throttle has been fixed also.
thanks guys
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@DerekAE86 ok so I set the fuel around idle rpm to 50% and my afr is 12.4 and engine idles no problem now. Fuel ratio may need to be highered to get 14.7 though. What do you think ? When I Rev the car it revs it self up over 2k still. I’ve a new tps sensor on order as my current one has a rattle inside which I hope will fix this issue.
As for the oil pressure, I set it to the 150psi and is showing 90 psi on idle at 50 degree engine temp (didn’t want to let it go higher incase of damage) when I set the calibration to 6.5 bar link it idles at 60 psi. It does show 0.1 psi when engine off and ignition on , i don’t know wether this is an issue or not. I will be fitting a race tech 8 bar oil gauge this evening to see what readings it produces.
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@DerekAE86 will try the 50% across the idle range and see if it will idle for longer.
I will check the sensor tomorrow to make sure it is definitely a 150 psi 10bar sensor.
thanks
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@DerekAE86 0 psi with engine off. When cranking with injectors etc turned off it’s 32 psi. When first started it was at 100 dropped to 90 after 10 seconds. This engine doesn’t run for any longer than 10-15 seconds. The car cuts out due to when lambda activates the afr shoots up to 22afr and it kills the engine. There’s no base map for the Nissan Micra/March so I’ve been using a 4age map just to get it started. Been working through getting all the sensors working which I have done so. Car is booked for mapping in 2weeks so trying to make sure I’ve everything working prior to going.
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@DerekAE86 with that calibration it reads 90-100 psi on a fresh rebuild cold. I thought it had the wrong calibration. Engine is cold though and will need to get to temp to drop down pressure. I will try run the engine up to temp under this calibration and see what pressure it reads.
thanks
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@DerekAE86 I got the engine running again it just needed adjusting. I will rewire it the way you have stated though. Just one last thing , I have a 10bar link ecu oil pressure sensor and I’m trying to calibrate it but there is no option for a link 10 bar sensor in the list. Please see attached if you know which one I should choose. My link options only go up to 6.5 bar.
thanks
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@DerekAE86 it’s just odd as the wiring all worked prior to removal and swapping sensor. I get that the bracket may have moved and my air gap may be too big now but I straightened it and still the same. I will rewire the shield wiring as soon as i can.
what causes the roc speed to go negative ?
and would the incorrect trigger signal cause my no ignition on crank issue?
thanks
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@DerekAE86 I will do this tomorrow morning. Just a few other details to help aid. I only have the shield wire earthed at the cylinder head right beside the plug for crank sensor which loom is about 150mm long which has no shield from ecu, does it need to be earthed to a ground at ecu and closer to sensor ?And I also have the trigger wiring beside the alternator wiring would this cause a noise effect ? I have the alternator removed in logging to check if it was causing it.
thanks
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@DerekAE86 I have the old sensor back in. From jacking the engine up and down etc the crank sensor bracket was rubbing the chassis leg. I dont think its bent as the sensor is still aligned perfect with teeth. is the crank scope the capture function?
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Hi All,
I had my engine running and started every time no trigger error etc. I had to remove the timing casing to fix a leak and I fitted a new cosworth vr crank sensor as it had a few cuts on cable. Car now won’t start and I’m getting trigger error warning and engine speed roc is going as low as -8000. I also have no spark when cranking but i have spark during test function. I will attach a log file in a few minutes, just wanted to post up and see if anyone has any ideas.
car is a 1997 Nissan Micra 4 cylinder
36-1 trigger wheel
cosworth vr sensor
honda k20 coils
thanks
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@essb00 hopefully his weekend
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@Adamwsorry, yes timing light is connected to cyl 1 lead between coil and plug. It’s a non advance timing light. If I attempt to Rev the car it turns off. Yes I am hitting enter each time. Something else I’ve noticed, if I leave the car over night day and come back to it , it won’t start until I plug pc in and connect ? It’s like as if it’s losing its memory like a radio would.
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@DerekAE86 I’ve set ignition table 1 to 15 degrees and reduced fuel from 65% down to 50. Car idles at 8-900 rpm now but still revs up to about 2000 rpm. Is there any other settings I should look at? Injector cc ?
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@Adamw so I’ve figured out why it’s revving. When I open the calibrate menu the car instantly shoots up to approx 3000 rpm before I make any adjustment but when I exit the menu it idles around 1100. There is not vacuum leaks on throttle bodies as i pressure tested them.
any ideas ?
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Got to spend an hour or so this evening with the car. I’ve stopped the revving by slackening off the throttle stops allowing the car to idle at 1100rpm. Timing set to 15degrees btdc and trigger offset set to 360, the trigger light is then flashing at TDC 0 degrees but is showing 15 degrees BTDC on my digital gauge on pclink. If i go +/- 5,10,15 offset or +/- 345,350,355 it just moves the trigger light further ATDC. Anyone any suggestions ? I’ve read the crank trigger could be wired opposite. I’m using a cosworth vr reluctor sensor and the black wire from trigger 1 is going to the positive marked on sensor. Is this correct ?
just to note when the timing is set to 15 degrees btdc and offset 360 the car idles excellent although the light shows 0 degree tdc
thanks
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3 hours ago, essb00 said:
@Fintank11 Hell no! Unless your ear or eye blinks could sync with the ignition, you can never get it right that way. You need to use a timing light as already mentioned last page. Trigger offset has to be precise in order for the ECU to work properly.
The difference in voltages for TPS open/closed would normally be at least 2.5 volts.
Yeah I get what you mean. I set the ignition timing to 15 btdc and had the offset at +15 and -345 and both (without engine running) lined up perfect. The second I start the engine it wants to Rev up to around 3500. I was speaking with tuner and I’m going to order link tps, iat and ect to have no doubts about calibrations and values etc. Once I fit them and my link can lambda I’ll be back to post results, thanks for all the help so far.
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15 minutes ago, essb00 said:
Odd for the repair manual to call it TDC when it isn't the actual TDC and off by 10°...
Since you have it on wasted spark ignition, yeah it would start with either 360° or 0° offset (give or take a few degrees), but then your injection timing may be off by one revolution... So it is important that you get the proper trigger offset to let the ECU know if the TDC is actualy with cyl.1 on compression TDC or exhaust TDC.
Your TPS is still not correctly wired as I can see on the calibrated open/closed voltages.
Your oil pressure sensor does not have a selected calibration.Is it just hearing by ear or if it runs or doesn’t if it’s on the right trigger offset or is there a proper way of knowing.
Ok, I did the checks Derek suggested and re pinned the plug to suit. There is a rattle in the Tps sensor so possible there’s an internal fault. What should it read with throttle fully open and closed ignition on.
Yes I have it off as I’m still trying to figure out why it stopped working.
Further update. I have spoke with him again and we figured out that I have it set to the wrong degree mark on crank pulley. Yes the timing is correct 2nd mark from left is Tdc 0 degree. I have been setting it 10degree on pc but it was actually at 0 degree tdc on crank when trigger light used. The marks go the opposite way. I will adjust it out to 15 degree btdc this evening and report back. All a learning curve.
thanks
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7 hours ago, DerekAE86 said:
I don't see where it says to set it to 10deg? I wouldn't be trying to interpret a vague picture in that way.
TDC = 0, it can't be "Top Dead Centre" if it's 10deg off from centre can it?
@DerekAE86 I spoke with Nissan Micra rally specialist who supplied me the engine parts. The "10 degree" mark is actually TDC. He sets ignition timing to 15 degree BTDC. So you were right but is marked as 10. Also recommended running my fuel pressure at 50psi , currently at 43 psi as matched to link 4age map. I will carry out these corrections and see how it goes. Did you happen to have a look at the log file?
Thanks
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@DerekAE86 I have attached the factory timing guide for this cg13de engine. It states tdc cylinder 1 is marked at 10 degree on crank. And yes with dial guage inserted into cylinder 1 it maxed out at 10degree btdc.
yes I understand now that it’s a mode you put it in to allow it be set and adjusted.
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4 hours ago, essb00 said:
'Fuel Equation Mode' 'Load=BAP'
'Fuel System Type' None - No FP CorrectionOk few things I found out this evening. My TPS was wired incorrectly and is sorted now and i have set up load= bap. I thought I ordered a link IAT a few years back but it is an FAE 33160. Im not sure wether there is a calibration there to suit, I was messing around with calibrations and an external thermometer to gauge which suited it best but it is not close. ECT is a standard nissan micra one but again im unsure which calibration to use. I might just order link versions. Please note in log file attached ign timing going to RED minus numbers btdc. I have checked TDC with dial gauge and showing 10degrees on crank which I have calibrated to 355 degree offset, should it be 5 instead ??
any tips on the programming and log file would be appreciated as always.
Thanks
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@essb00 should it be set to bap?
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1 hour ago, DerekAE86 said:
Pretty easy to figure out a TPS without the pinout.
Using a multi-meter on ohms - with the power off; probe 2 pins until you find the 2 where the reading doesn't change when you open the throttle.
They will be Sensor 5v and Sensor GND. The final pin is the Signal.Leave the black lead on one those pins and move the red lead to the final pin.
If the reading starts low and increases as you open the throttle - the black lead is on Sensor GND.
If the reading starts high and decreases as you open the throttle - the black lead is on Sensor 5v.Will give this a go today. Can Lambda was ordered this morning and should arrive tomorrow. Will give a better log file when fitted.
Thanks
Oil pressure gauge wiring help
in G4x
Posted
@DerekAE86 ok thanks, ill have a look.
Maybe a cheaper way is to buy a different sender unit as I have the 10 bar sensor fitted to a sandwich plate and I still have the factory sensor port available. Thoughts?