Dave Kriedeman

Hi Rob, did you go into the OPTIONS tab and then down to UNITS and select AFR in both Metric and Imperial settings. Otherwise pressing the U key will change the value from Lambda to AFR but will also change any other metricated values to imperial such as MAP will become PSI etc. So it is best done under the OPTIONS tab. You will also need to right click on the gauge and hit properties, go to manual selection and change the values from 0.068 MIN and 1.3 max to you corresponding AFR values for your gauge say MIN = 10 AFR and MAX= 22 AFR Regards Dave.

Hi Felix, you must go down to the Triggers tab. Once you have setup Trigger 1 and 2 correctly and stored to the ECU by pressing F4, You must, Go to the Calibrate tab below trigger 1 and 2. Click on the set Base Timing tab and this will unlock your Trigger calibration mode. Set your desired TRIGGER TEST POINT DEPENDANT on your harmonic balancer or flywheel where ever it is located. If you only have 1 mark this is normally TDC or 0 degrees. But if you have multiple marks they may graduate in 5or 10 degree increments (confirm marks before starting). Next step is to turn off the fuel in the Fuel Main Tab from sequential or your chosen way and set to OFF/NONE. Or alternatively disconnect your injectors, crank the engine with a timing light. You need to see the light fire and have the timing mark line up to what ever you have set your reference timing to , say 10 degrees BTDC. If the timing marks don't line up simply adjust the Trigger Offset Value until they do. These numbers can end up positive or negative. Regards Dave.

Hi , when I had a quick read about the KMS unit it showed it could only display 16 or 20 preset parameters. Regards Dave.

Hi Rbmadhead, FIRSTLY NOT A DOUBLE POST, AS I WAS TYPING MY REPLY SIMON ANSWERED YOU ALSO. So you are referring to resigning the factory CAS and using standalone crank trigger and cam sensor. The choice of triggers is up to you. Mag reluctor type sensors are easier to wire (2 wires) one wire the positive goes to Trigger 1 ECU PIN A8 if it is the crank trigger and the other to sensor ground / shielded ECU PIN A 7 The same for the CAM sensor. Positive goes to ECU PIN A9 and negative to ECU PIN A7. If you choose HALL EFFECT SENSORS such as GT101's then the positive to the sensor should come from ECU PIN A6 8volt output. This wire will be BLK/RED = 8 VOLT PIN A6 BLK/WH = TRIGGER SIGNAL = ECU PIN A8 if crank , ECU PIN A9 if CAM. BLK = SENSOR GROUND = ECU PIN A7 I personally prefer MAGNETIC RELUCTOR TYPE SENSORS. So that is just the sensor side. Then you have trigger wheels and cam trigger lug to worry about. Has your CAS died or are you simply wanting more accurate trigger inputs. You also have the option of removing the 360 x1 and 6 x 60 trigger disc and fitting a 6 x 60 and single sync chopper disc for the factory CAS for high rpm use. Google RB 26 CRANK TRIGGER KITS, I am sure there are a few around and one is made by a Harmonic balancer company Ross or the likes. Regards Dave. Simon, you answered while I was typing, ha ha, what are you doing up early. The lil man didn't sleep again I take it. Regards Dave

Hi Felix, I have had a quick look at your PCL file. I have noticed that the TRIGGER CALIBRATION you have no trigger offset it is set to 0 degrees and your set ignition timing is set to 0 also. Have you actually done a TRIGGER CALIBRATION, where you lock the timing to a timing value you wish to check at, the ecu will lock the timing to say 10 deg BTDC and you need to adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET until you achieve the desired timing value, 10 degrees in our example. You then need to set the IGNITION DELAY value also, adjust the number until the timing value stays locked on your preset value say 10 deg BTDC, if the timing value changes when you rev the engine you need to adjust the delay value until it no longer moves. Running sequential fuel and ignition should work, with your setup and have no need to change the wiring etc, just setup and calibrate the triggers properly. Did you also, calibrate the DBW and MAP sensor. Regards Dave.

Hi Felix, I have just downloaded. I will view the setup ASAP. Simon may answer before me however. Regards Dave.

Hi tao, that is much better. Thank you, I will be able to help out now. Can you also list what outputs you wish to use. What inputs do you wish to use. If you do have a LINK G4+ ATOM there is no onboard MAP sensor so an external unit will be required if you want MAP. The ATOM is limited with INPUTS and OUTPUTS. Regards Dave.

Hi Tao, the picture is too small and when I save it and open and enlarge it is heavily pixelated, I can't read it sorry. Also is there a connector C. Regards Dave.

Hi Felix, can you please post your PCL file for analysis. Looking at the scope capture if these are from your engine then the triggers 1 and 2 are working. In runtime values F12 or R key under TRIGGERS do you see TRIGGER 1 GREEN -YES and TRIGGER 2 GREEN - YES and Finally do you see RPM. Did you calibrate the TRIGGERS and adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET TO GET THE AIM TIMING VALUE YOU SELECTED. Regards Dave.

Hi dicko, yes dual maps can be setup and use a simple switch setup as a DIGITAL INPUT to activate. One programmed correctly only the switch is required to change from setting 1 to 2. Regards Dave.

Hi dmacnz, Yes , there sure is. Right click on screen select what type of gauge you want. Then go to the CHASSIS and BODY TAB. Select TRANSMISSION and then gear. Attached screen shot plus I added a couple more gauges. Regards Dave.

Hi Felix, what type of sensors are they, hall or mag reluctor. Can you give me the tooth count for the Crank Trigger and the Cam trigger. Regards Dave.

Hi Ducie54, very cool idea. Regards Dave.

Hi Felix, I am a little confused. What ECU are you using and how many cylinders is your engine. If you have enough injector outputs to suit the number of cylinders/injectors then wire the injectors separately, (INDIVIDUALLY, SEQUENTIAL). Then set the Ignition to WASTED SPARK and pair off your coils. DO YOU HAVE A TRIGGER 2 ISSUE, WHY are you doing this change, so I can understand, sorry Regards Dave.

Hi Finbimmer, Does the DBW work nice and smooth, responsive and controllable when just driving normally without cruise control on. If so, I would suggest setting up a secondary E THROTTLE TARGET TABLE with less aggressive throttle % settings in the table. You could activate this off the same Digital Input as you use for the Cruise Control ENABLE. When this is turned on it uses Table 2 with less throttle blade movement than the Main E THROTTLE target Table 1. I would suggest you use the same PID settings as the MAIN E THROTTLE SETUP if it works nicely in normal mode. Then try the example have added below, play with the E THROTTLE TABLE 2 VALUES TO SUIT YOUR LIKING. Adjust the PID values under the Cruise Control PID settings to achieve smooth operation. Regards Dave.

Hi tao, if you can supply a ECU pin out schematic (IN ENGLISH) for your car then I can help give you the information to cross wire to the ATOM. Regards Dave.

Hi Felix, you will need to pair off coils in wasted spark format and change the software to WASTED SPARK under the IGNITION TAB. Regards Dave.

Hi Simon, glad your on the job, ha ha. I totally got that wrong. Joys of being on the FORUM at 2:50 am. Regards Dave.

Hi Rob W, to be able to insert the injector cc's and a lot more fuel related and engine capacity data you need to select, Modelled or Modelled - Multi Fuel, instead of Traditional. This is found under the Fuel Main Tab. If you select these other 2 options you will find injector cc's under Injector setup and engine capacity under the Fuel Main Tab. Regards Dave.

Hi mate, as Simon has stated it is not a modification issue with the V series it is due to the newer processor used in the i SERIES and G4+ that allows for this to work. I have done a lot of MoTeC SDL, ADL and CDL dashes with V SERIES with CAN BUS. Now these DASHES are cheaper and showing up second hand for sale , due to the release of the new C SERIES MoTeC dashes. There is also the DASH 2 PRO option sold by LINK These are very well priced and a nice unit. Regards Dave.

Hi everybody, just making you all aware I can also carry out the CAN BUS modifications on the LINK and ViPEC series ECU's. I have done a lot of them now. Or you can send to Ray Hall or direct to LINK. Remember this is only required on units with a serial number less than 10 000. Regards Dave.

Hi tao. What model Honda do you have ? Are you sure you have OBD 1 ? Only OBD 2 Protocol is supported. If you have OBD2 then all the information is in the HELP files on how to wire it up and your software settings. Regards Dave.

Hi paulr33, ViPEC was made by LINK, it was just the high end version of the LINK. Everything is the same except for the new more modern software and the sticker as previously mentioned. Regards Dave.

Hi Peter, are you still referring to the dash issue. And or the quick tune not working. If you are still having issues with QUICK TUNE let me know and I will log in and check what is happening If you can send me your dash configuration file I can look into it more deeply for you. I see the dash can except 20 parameters from the ECU, it also shows the stream ID's etc, so I am not sure if these need to be programmed into the ECU CAN, I would believe so as the Racepak is not setup as a predefined selectable dash config. If this is the case I am prepared to write the stream and help you get this thing going. Please send your dash config file for Racepak software to [email protected] Regards Dave.

Hi jon9985, very good, no issue on driver 6. What about the ignition amplifier that drives the stock coils if you are using them. It may have an intermitent fault. Regards Dave.