Mike928
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Posts posted by Mike928
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20 minutes ago, Confused said:
You don't want this relay feeding all these things with your E-Throttle relay - ONLY Plug B pin 5 for Aux9/10. If you're using E-Throttle 2 (Plug D pin 4) then this should have its own separate relay, triggered from a separate output, using the EThrottle Relay 2 function.
If the E-Throttle safety kicks in due to an error, it will kill power to the E-Throttle via this relay, but you still want the injectors to run, the engine will still function, and will be limited to 1800rpm, this is to allow you to still get the car to safety. If you've powered things like injectors from this too, you'll stop the engine, and this safety has gone, you'll be stranded where you are.
The AP Main should change values smoothly from 0% to 100% as you depress the pedal.
Thank you for that. I'm relay squeezed for space on my circuit board but I'll find a way to to do it.
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3 hours ago, Mike928 said:
Some progress.
TPS (-) 1&2 have been moved from AN Volt pins to Plug B #22 [ground out]. I now know that TPS 1&2 out is another name for TPS Main & Sub. Who says you can't tach an old dog new tricks?
Set Aux 3 to E-throttle relay trigger, wired to a solid state relay powering Injectors, Plug B #5 [Aux 9/10] & plug D #4 [E-throttle 2 and APPS. The relay LED came on and PCLink showed 12.6 volts for both Aux 9/10 and 17-20.
Next I did the APPS calibration. AP Main graph was showing 100%, TP Main 0%. This went as I think it should and AP Main is now at 0%.
Next I did E-throttle and it went smoothly. I could hear the throttle bodies doing their yoga and now the TP Main says 5.8%.
Here's the bummer. The E-throttle relay is now inactive, even though Aux 3 is still to trigger on? and voltages for Aux 9/10 and 17/18 are back to 0.9 volts?
If I jumper the relay the screen shows 12.8 volts for the motors.
Has the ECU locked out the throttle motor power or have I got a dead relay [that is easy to check/replace].
One other thing I did note was when the accel pedal is pressed, the AP (Main) bar graph does not move from zero until the pedal is fully pressed, then the bar graph jumps straight to 100%.
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On 10/6/2023 at 1:33 PM, Mike928 said:
I'm starting to get my head around the E-throttles by going through many different pages of the Help section.
I seem to have some things very wrong!
I have #1 TPS +&- at plug A32 (+) and B31 (-) which is AN Volt10??
#2 TPS plug D4 (+) and plug B322 (-) which is AN Volt11??
So you are correct no grounds. I have to move these 2 wires for TPS (-) to a ground pin.
I've changed my temp sensors twice but they reset themselves back to Falcon??
Attached is my VW pedal pinout. I thought I got it from you but clearly not?
Some progress.
TPS (-) 1&2 have been moved from AN Volt pins to Plug B #22 [ground out]. I now know that TPS 1&2 out is another name for TPS Main & Sub. Who says you can't tach an old dog new tricks?
Set Aux 3 to E-throttle relay trigger, wired to a solid state relay powering Injectors, Plug B #5 [Aux 9/10] & plug D #4 [E-throttle 2 and APPS. The relay LED came on and PCLink showed 12.6 volts for both Aux 9/10 and 17-20.
Next I did the APPS calibration. AP Main graph was showing 100%, TP Main 0%. This went as I think it should and AP Main is now at 0%.
Next I did E-throttle and it went smoothly. I could hear the throttle bodies doing their yoga and now the TP Main says 5.8%.
Here's the bummer. The E-throttle relay is now inactive, even though Aux 3 is still to trigger on? and voltages for Aux 9/10 and 17/18 are back to 0.9 volts?
If I jumper the relay the screen shows 12.8 volts for the motors.
Has the ECU locked out the throttle motor power or have I got a dead relay [that is easy to check/replace].
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
The map you attached above has the oil temp calibration on AN T3 set to "Ford Falcon CHT", not Std Bosch NTC.
Where did you get the pinout for that pedal sensor? The few pics I can find online suggest it only has one position output, then it looks like maybe a WOT and idle switch?
You don't have any sensor ground connected to your throttles. Pin 2 is sensor ground.
I'm starting to get my head around the E-throttles by going through many different pages of the Help section.
I seem to have some things very wrong!
I have #1 TPS +&- at plug A32 (+) and B31 (-) which is AN Volt10??
#2 TPS plug D4 (+) and plug B322 (-) which is AN Volt11??
So you are correct no grounds. I have to move these 2 wires for TPS (-) to a ground pin.
I've changed my temp sensors twice but they reset themselves back to Falcon??
Attached is my VW pedal pinout. I thought I got it from you but clearly not?
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CAL 5 table, linear kpa. HO HUM!
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OK, done some stuff.
Firstly, I'm working with incomplete wiring setup as the 2 PDMs [Power Distribution Modules] and the LCD instrument cluster are not fitted because the supplier/installer wants the Link Thunder setup first so he can configure the CANBUS between them all. Mostly I just power the Link through plug A pin 5 +14V. It doesn't seen to do much but powering plug C pin 2 Ign trigger.
I fitted a new engine oil sender plug and wired it according to the Bosch 0261230340 pinout and configured it in PCLink as instructed by Adamw. I selected CAL4 as the linear type for the pressure side but it reads 626kpa stationary and the error value for AN12, where the pressure is connected, is 0.000 Lambda? The temp side is set to std Bosch ntc but it reads 93C when it's about 16C here?
Next the E-throttles. I have calibrated the AP and it took away the 100% for AP Main but that is ack today?
I still get no voltage movements when pressing the AP down.
For throttle body calibration it is very confusing when pinouts for Link are for example TPS 2 (Out) and TPS (-) but the instructions refer to SUB or MAIN?
I've attached my files for some guidance.
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ok, I've ordered a new plug for the oil press/temp sender and it'll get another wire with 5V.
The only calibration I've done is the MAP [Link 4 bar]. No voltages move when AP pressed.
I want to read up on the E-throttle/Accel pedal setup/calibration but I've not found much, certainly no 'procedure' as such. I'm contemplating doing the HPA course on Link G4+, is this worth doing?
Been through and set all the other sensors and I'm getting sensible gauge readings now.
O2 #2 not heating up on ignition, so I have to chase that.
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Also, what should I set my fuel pressure sender as? T's 0-150psi linear 0.5-4.50 volt.
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I'm working through the ECU setup and I see way back in this thread that I planned to power the Bosch oil press/temp sensor, 0261230340, from plug A #32 but I haven't. The sensor came with it's plug and pigtail, with no wire on pin #3, 5v+!
does it need 5v+? why would they omit this wire? Also, do I set it to std NTC Bosch?
I have thoroughly checked all the e-throttle and pedal wiring and it's wholesome but I'm getting errors. namely the AP Main is at 100% while the AP Sub is at 0%?
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ok
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Now I've powered my thunder, I get these errors?
It says it's limited to 1800rpm? What should I check?
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all good Adam, your patient man, thank you.
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It is clearly my error in that I was working the laptop and my wife was working the ignition switch on the other side of the car. At the message to cycle the power I didn't leave her time and clicked 'ok' ahead of her.
I had another attempt yesterday after the battery had been disconnected for 3 days and the laptop was off but no joy. The only way to get rid of the 'boot mode' message is to disconnect the USB cable to the ECU, or connect the ECU with the 'manual connect' mode on but as soon as any attempt to connect is made, up come the boot mode warning which stops ANYTHING from being accessed and won't go away.
An internet search showed a few people with the same problem an one guy had success after following your suggestion to remove the ECU from the car and power it on the bench via the large diode on the circuit board, so I tried that but it behaves exactly the same as in the car.
Really hoping you can get me out of this?
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OK, unlock was easy and connection is stable. Firmware upgrade said it was successful, turn of the power, which I did, now it says 'ECU is in boot mode, retry firmware upgrade' but nothing I tried will get rid of that message for more than 2 seconds accept unplugging the USB cable?
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I have all the settings I think they should be, after you checked them for me some time ago, on my laptop.
Do I copy these one by one? or download my file into the ECU?
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Yes, that's where the blue light is coming from and yes, the installation directory is correct.
I have my configuration file in the Link G4+ directory.
I have just pre selected 'auto' for connection and it has changed from 'offline' to searching' so I'm ready to go to the workshop and plug it in.
Then I use 'ecu controls' 'save to ecu' ? After I have unlocked of course.
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yes. The blue light at the top [above the row of plugs]. In my installation the 4 plugs, ABCD are positioned vertically with the USB port under them and I don't remember seeing a light near the USB port?
It didn't connect properly, at least I don't think so?
I powered the ECU, then plugged it into my laptop with the data file on it and it remained as 'offline'.
I went to 'connections' and changed it from 'manual' to 'auto' and when I clicked 'ok' it flashed up the 'unlock' message and pclink disappeared.
I didn't mess with it any more for fear of not knowing what to do.
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Well, I've plugged in my laptop and I get "ECU is locked" and pclink drops out?
I have the unlock code but I can't find how to enter it?
What do I do next?
Mike
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Thanks Adam, sound advice as usual.
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I'm eventually getting close to my first start attempt with 6.5 litre Porsche engine with its Link G4+ Thunder EMS.
It's taken quite a while doing the rest of the car wiring, with many component mods.
I would like to know if I can set a 'soft rev limit'? at, say 3500-4000rpm. This limit could not be exceeded in park or neutral.
Also, I hate it when an engine starts cold and goes straight to warmup revs @ say 1100+ rpm and rattles like hell until oil pressure comes up. [Subaru]. I would like it to start cold at around 500 rpm for about 3 seconds, or until oil pressure is detected, then go to warmup revs of 1100 rpm until NOT then drop to standard idle of 650 rpm.
Is any of this possible?
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What is the pin assignment for the Link IAT plug? I have Plug B, pin 22, gnd out and Plug A6 pin 16, temp2 wired for it ready to be soldered to the plug pins.
Just now, Mike928 said:What is the pin assignment for the Link IAT plug? I have Plug B, pin 22, gnd out and Plug A6 pin 16, temp2 wired for it ready to be soldered to the plug pins.
that's Plug A not A6?
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Hi, it seems ages since I was here but stuff gets in the way!
Everything is in the car now and I'm hooking stuff up. In my setup records I have my Speedo pulse wire connected to twice???
Plug A pin # 18, Aux4 Orange and Plug D pin # 8 An Volt 13
It sends 8 pulses per axle revolution, from a series of 8 magnets in the differential, so where should I have it connected?
I am also connecting the ABS sensors +&- in Plug C, so do I really have to have the diff pulse as well?
Mike
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Here is my wiring plan.
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We just bit the bullet with this and on my ABS unit, 1986, the following was found with a multi-meter at the Bosch ABS loom plug at the unit itself;
Front Left red pin #4, earthed
Front Left red pin #6, not earthed
Front Right green pin #21, earthed
Front Right green pin #11, not earthed
Rear Left white pin #9, earthed
Rear Left white pin #8, not earthed
Rear Right yellow pin #26, earthed
Rear Right yellow pin #24, not earthed.
So, I have run wires from Plug 'C' pins DI 11+, DI 12+, DI 13+ and DI 14+ to ABS pins 6, 11, 8, and 24
and DI 11-, DI 12-, DI 13- and DI 14- to ABS pins 4, 21, 9, and 26.
I hope this is correct??
Thunder PCLink settings
in G4+
Posted
Once I assigned Aux 3 to trigger the E-throttle relay, it closed and I could see 12 volts at Aux 9/10 & 17/18 but after the throttle calibration, that voltage had dropped to 0.9v? and the relay open?
Adam, with the APS, we have traded wiring diags for it but I am keen to know what your thoughts are. Does the unit sound faulty to you? or do you think it looks to be wired incorrectly? Should I replace it with a new Bosch unit with a clearer wiring instruction. That would be a pain we have modified the pedal assembly once so we can do it again.
I found a forum post on High Performance Academy that provides the wiring pinout for the Bosch Accelerator Pedal Sensor 0205001034. According to the post, the pinout is as follows:
1. +5V
2. +5V
3. Sensor Ground
4. APP 1
5. Sensor Ground
6. APP 2