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Sterling

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  1. Base map and log attached. I'm making progress, probably down to timing and a number of settings now David Race001.pclr Log_10_1_20.llg It runs! Not sure exactly what I changed but I got it working and the base map isn't the worst, at least I can get it to the dyno!
  2. I see what you mean, I made a quick calculation and got a lot closer and now have a working crank scope which I attached. I think I now need to get timing set and see if I can get it running. Can you deduce timing from the crank scope? I don't have a button for my timing light, need to enlist a friend to help out! Getting closer. You can hear it wants to start but currently isn't making it happen
  3. I haven't gotten far enough yet to do the timing light, I think the timing is way off, although I expected that the timing I found in DTA would translate as mechanically nothing has changed. I thought the crank scope could help me out with that. I will send a log, but have to go back to the shop to do so. I should note that i know the timing is way off because I'm flooding the motor. I can see that I have spark when I removed a coil and checked it on the valve cover, but it's obviously not firing at the right time cause the plugs are doused. I turned off the fuel pump and continued
  4. Hi Adam, Thanks for the quick reply. I did click capture while cranking the motor, I did not see anything for trigger 1 but a signal did show up for trigger 2 once I realized I had to crank and then push capture. The DTA was as little different. At this point I am getting no crank trigger signal at all, just a blank, straight line like it is before you push the capture button. The software is showing a stable RPM when cranking, no issue there that I can tell
  5. I'm in the process of switching from a DTA S60pro to this Link G4+ Extreme. I can't get it to show a trigger scope with the Link so I'm revisiting my wiring. I had the same A and B loom plugs with the DTA so I did a simple pin swap at the A and B loom plugs to adapt for the Link. I have the trigger 1 set as my crank and the trigger 2 set as my cam. In the Link manual it shows a diagram which shows the shielded cable from both the trigger 1 and 2 splicing together with each sensor ground wire and at the ECU it shows that wire going into the sensor ground. Currently I have the
  6. For some reason I thought I saw the heater on a separate input, guess it's not necessary or I misread.
  7. I'm not sure what to do with the Lambda heater wire. I have an Innovate LC-1 that's been working fine for me with my previous system and that system did not call for a specific input into the ECU for the heater wire. I only connected the signal wire from the LC-1 to the ECU and it worked fine. Please advise, can I just hook up the signal wire from LC-1 to the G4+ or do I need to take the heater wire from the LC-1 and hook that up as well? Not sure why it matters. Thanks in advance
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