MartinS

Simple solution! Thanks

Thanks Adam! I'll load it up in the morning and see what happens. Side question: I've downloaded a couple of tuning files you put me on to for someone who tuned an EZ36 with a G4+. The files come as .pclr rather than .pcl which my version of PC Link saves the files as. Is there a way to translate or will my program recognize them? Don't want to actually use them, just want to have a look at the settings and tables to guide my tune.

Here is PCL file.... EZ36 initial setup.pcl

Setting up my e-throttle today. G-4 Xtreme with add on e-throttle module, Subaru EZ 36. Everything appears to be set up correctly. FPS calibrated no problem. Start TPS calibration: calibrated TPS main and TPS sub successfully, throttle opening and closing. After TPS sub calibration successful message, throttle plate began oscillating open and closed at approximately 4 Hz. Program displayed "Error 16: Cannot Reach Target 98.0%". Throttle plate continued oscillating at 4 Hz until unit shut down. Tried this three times, at the end of calibration, oscillation begins and doesn't stop until power cut. Martin

Hello, just getting re-started the tuning process after a long delay solving problems with my 54 pin Subaru connector. Sorted now so I reconnected today, turned things on, and opened PCLink. First thing on opening was I got the following message: 'An invalid character was found in text content. Line: 0'. Allowed me to click 'ok' and the error message disappeared. Not sure what to do about this if anything. Thanks, Martin

Got it. Thanks guys!

Simon, thinking about this overnight and not sure I understand the difference between cam lift and VVT control. I'm assuming the VVT solenoids are the oil pressure control devices which control the valve timing. Not sure I know what the 'cam lift' solenoid is or whether my engine has them.

Sorry, already asked the first question in January and the response from Adam was that is the correct wiring. Thought I had asked but when I searched it didn't come up for some reason. Should have looked at my post history first. Apologies. Still interested in the second question though. Is there a reason I can't use one channel to control two oil control valves? Martin Thanks Simon, was typing my last post when you responded. Shame, would have solved a problem for me...

Hi, Subaru EZ36, couple of questions about the oil control solenoids: 1. Do I supply the solenoids with 12v and hook up the aux outputs on the ground side and it doesn't matter which pin is negative or positive on the solenoid? I think that's correct but can't find confirmation. 2. Due to a shortage of Aux outputs, can I hook up one aux output to two oil control solenoids? Seems one channel could control either both intake or both exhaust solenoids as I can't imagine ever wanting to activate them separately. Thanks in advance, Martin

As I thought. Plus, and I think I've asked you about this before, output to e-throttle needs to be one from Aux 1-4 and one from Aux 5-8 and most logical is to dump exhaust VVT as intake makes large torque/HP difference and EGR is a stepper motor I believe requiring Aux 5-8 so it's out too. I think there's a 4+ or 4X Xtreme in my future...

Could one of them drive a VVT solenoid?

Well, spoke too soon. Tested this morning and far too many connectors not achieving continuity. Back to the beginning.

Ah! Thanks, I didn't understand that point. I read the written instructions included with the module and didn't understand the verbiage around driving 'enable' LOW. Although it does say 'From ECU Aux Channels'. Duh. I guess this would be a big advantage to the G4+ or X: e-throttle is using 3 of my 8 Aux channels and I can't use my exhaust cam timing or EGR. Although these don't do much for power, it seems they can be used to increase scavenging or decrease 'pumping losses' respectively making the engine more efficient at cruise and low-throttle openings which I am interested in since it will be a long distance travel vehicle primarily.

Took a photo of message. Tune is very preliminary as there are still issues which need fixing. Seem to have wired my cam trigger wrong somehow. Also haven't quite figured out how I would do that but will.

Hi Adam, just an update, looks like I've solved the connector issue with my theory being correct about the, turns out 4, which were not working is because I damaged them trying to get them to work. Replacing them and installing them by pulling them back through the plug and, as far as I have tested so far, I have continuity across the plug now. Live and learn. Of course, now I'm finding some idiot didn't put all the wires in the correct places so I'm going through and correcting those errors. That guy does crappy work.... Also, I have again seen the error message I mentioned to you earlier. It is not that the program failed to find the module, but the e-throtle cut off relay which I hadn't installed...in my defence, I didn't see this requirement in the documentation which came with the module but it is definitely there in the help file. Is my wife right? Do I have to read the instructions?

Yes, I thought I was being so clever. I've made progress, most of them where not engaging properly with the housing and getting pushed back by the socket 'tynes'. Turns out, I had them 180 degrees rotated on their long axis. Even though they locked in place being pushed in from the rear the way I had them (like every other automotive socket/plug combo I've worked on), they where able to be pushed back. Pulling them forward out of the housing (ie towards the socket), rotating them 180 and pushing them back in and they are locked from being pushed back. Didn't know that was a thing but there you go. Problem is, a couple are still not connecting but they are the ones I spent a lot of time testing and messing with to try and get them to work (even tried a little 5 min epoxy to fix them in place) so I'm hoping they are damaged and I'll crimp new ones in tomorrow and all will be well. I have 6 or 8 spares so I can choose ones which fit tightly and make a good connection. Fingers crossed....I guess I can live with hard wiring in those 2 or 3 which don't work in the socket (that I know about so far) but it's very irritating when something supposedly precision fails to work. Especially after so much effort.

CET5401 M and F

Hi Adam, so, looked at my one channel FPS and I'm 99% sure the link two channel will fit to my bracket/cable so have ordered it. Just to get things rolling I connected a sub input to the singe channel and it now works well. Unfortunately, all the other problems I'm having turn out to be related to the connector I'm trying to use from engine harness to ECU. Probably no surprise to you it's a wiring issue and shouldn't have been to me I guess. The Subaru engine harness has a socket, I found a supplier of the plug, purchased plug and crimp connectors, no continuity on the small crimp connectors so purchased pre-crimped wire/connectors thinking it was my crimping, same problem. So, now I've dumped about $400 US and many tens of hours (wiring is not my thing obviously) thinking I'd have a plug and play engine and it looks like I'm going to have to start from scratch and hard wire everything in. Honestly, I thought the hard part was going to be making sure I got the plug and socket wires in the right playout. A bit discouraging. I'll contact the connector supplier's help line tomorrow but I'm not optimistic. I'm sure I'll have more questions when I get the wiring sorted so I'll start another thread when I get back to this point.

Thanks Adam! Mac user last 20 years, have forgotten all the details of Windows and Windows has changed a lot since I was a regular user. I'll tweak that and see if my overall level of irritation decreases...seems to get higher every year even without Windows...

Ah, ok, it only flashed up on the screen for a moment. Must have misinterpreted what it said. One of my frustrations is with the laptop I'm using. Lightly touching the track pad is like an enter click and I tend to leave my finger hovering so do touch it which essentially clicks on whatever the mouse 'arrow' is over. Just not used to the computer and it's very irritating. Thanks for the link, that's very useful info...

Thanks Adam, I'll check through everything again. Cam sensors are wired 12V which had me worried but I haven't got that far in my setup to realize they are ok at 12V. I'm thinking I'm mashing everything together in my mind and did wire the MAP as 5V as it's working correctly and my engine wiring loom links all like sensor's power together and I'm using the factory engine loom so the other sensors should be 5v...which is only the TPS I think. O2, MAT, accel pedal all 5V already. So, I guess I was mainly worried about the cam sensors and they're good at 12V. I'll double check the temp sensors. I wired in an inlet air temp sensor and it's working fine so maybe it is the error value I'm confusing. I'll wire the accel pedal in parallel to get things started and will order the Link 'dual track'. Looks like it would just replace the sensor on my setup without changing the overall installation of the system which is my primary concern. Thanks for the information. When setting up the e-throttle, which is when I realized there needed to be a 'sub' channel, the program told me it failed to find an e-throttle module. I have the Link module wired in. I'll check the wiring again but is there a way to make sure the ECU is seeing the module? Sorry for the basic questions but I suspect I'll be posting again, I'm new to Link and just getting going on the program and it's setup. Early days and frustrating until I learn the internal logic of the layout. Can you recommend any sources of information other than the help file? Also, I posted asking for help with basemaps for my EZ36 but haven't had any responses. Any ideas for sources? Thanks again, Martin

Hi all, using a Link G4 Xtreme on my Subaru EZ36 install into a VW Vanagon. When wiring up my engine, I used the Subaru wiring diagrams assuming this would wire all the sensors correctly. This gives all powered sensors 12V on the EZ36. The link seems to want everything at 5V although it implies in Help this can be changed. Having said that, my MAP seems fine. How do I change this or do I need to convert all my sensors to 5V? Second, what do I set Subaru temp sensors as? The engine has a water and oil temp sensor. I've put them as Bosch but they just read 100C. I tried using the calibration tables but couldn't figure out (despite juggling some of the numbers) how to get the sensors into range. Another issue: I have a 0-5V E-accelerator pedal system installed. It was an expensive and a relatively complex install under the floor of the drivers compartment to get it integrated into the mechanical accelerator pedal and cable of the van. My mistake, I did not read the Link Help files prior to doing this and my pedal system has only one 0-5V output and no 'sub' channel. Is there a workaround for this? Finally, where do I find the settings for the high and low limits for analogue channels? Help says these can be adjusted to prevent error messages but I've been through all the menus and I just can't find them. Probable hiding in plain sight.... Thanks in advance, Martin

Hi Ross, I was wondering if you or anyone else on the forum had a base map for a Subaru EZ36R? Thanks in advance, Martin

Thanks Adam, very useful info and food for thought.

The G4 unit is new in box. What fooled me was it was purchased by PO to run the same engine (PO ran a business which included Subaru engine swaps into Vanagons) but never used. Actually I thought he was a Link dealer but apparently not. I assumed it was up to the job but looks like isn't. I'll have to get finished it wiring in and hooked up to software to be sure but I'm not optimistic now. In the likely event I need to upgrade to a G4X, can I still use the two wiring looms which came with the G4? I have spent many hours wiring them into a plug which plugs directly into the engine wiring loom socket making it essentially plug and play for engine replacement. I'd really rather not do that again...