hugemikeyd

And 400/3 = 133, so he must be speaking in e-shaft rotation degrees. He also mentions something along the lines of "you have 270 degrees to inject fuel", 270/3 = 90 and 90 + 40 = 130! I think i finally get this about a year later

Bringing this back from the dead. Rob Dahm made a video where he goes in depth about various topics and one of those is Injector Timing. Here is the point in the video where it starts: "You want fuel going in at that 400ish BTDC." The above is confusing to me since Link only lets us adjust from 0-360, so is he really talking about 180 here? I assume he is speaking in terms of the degrees of rotation for the e-shaft whereas the Link is speaking in terms of the rotor?

I was able to make the static throttle body adjustable so I am able to make the necessary adjustments. However, for any RX7 owners out there using an aftermarket intake, make sure that your BAC valve is not just open to the engine bay like mine. If it is, it will suck in very hot air rather than colder air coming in from the intake. Also, this means that the Intake Air Temp is reading lower than what the BAC is pulling into the intake before it gets combusted. That very reason is probably why I was having an issue with getting the Charge Temp Approx table correct, it really depended on the temperature within the engine bay which is not measured, as opposed to Intake Air Temp and Engine Coolant Temp. I will play with the adjustment to get a stable idle with the Idle Control set to 0% at temp and report back what i see

I will work on that. If you take a look at the log, it keeps getting richer and richer as the Charge Temp increases, do i still need to adjust my Charge Temp Approx table to help compensate for that or something else? Maybe the closed throttle plate is what is making it run richer?

Link updated, no idea how that happened... are you saying that my throttle is too closed at rest? I can try and crack it a little bit to see if that helps. When i first got the car running it would idle at 2.5k, so i closed it a good amount to get it back down to a normal idle

I've been tuning the car more and was able to get things a bit better, but the car will still stall when hot and dropping back down to idle. I can see the RPMs drop to 500-600 and the ECU is unable to catch it before it's too late. This is more pronounced when hot, when the car is warming up or is initially at operating temp, the RPMs still drop, but the ECU can catch it. I have tried to adjust things to make it better, but nothing has worked so far. What else can i try? Tune and Log

FC owner here, I used a wire in ECU but I think it is the same in the end. I have the 2 grounds from the ECU (black) going to each rotor housing separately and the sensor ground (green) is isolated from the other grounds and is a closed loop with only the sensors and the ECU. The sensor ground should never be linked with the other grounds. With that said, is it possible that one or more of the sensors rely on the engine ground (black)? that would cross the lines which is not what you want.

Awesome, I am so glad that I asked. I was confusing F in @Adamws diagram above as the TDC for the Injection timing based on the explanation in the manual: The units are degrees before top dead centre (BTDC) with reference to top dead centre between the compression and power stroke. This means 360 represents TDC between the exhaust and inlet stroke. But actually, it's C, got it. Full disclosure, I was trying to take a dynamic End of Injection table from a competitor and make it work, but perhaps I should stick with the static 130 from the FD base maps...

I want to better understand where in the 0-360 available injection timing for a rotary is visually: The documentation states: On Rotary engines Injection Timing Position can be adjusted from 0 to 360 degrees. The units are degrees before top dead centre (BTDC) with reference to top dead centre between the compression and power stroke. This means 360 represents TDC between the exhaust and inlet stroke. Using the diagram above, would that mean Compression (second stage) represents 0 BTDC and Intake (first stage) is 180 BTDC?

I am not using the factory sensors for the Link at all, CLT is a Delphi TS10076

the engine speed was ~500rpm, if i just have to play with the idle base position, i will make those adjustments that makes sense, this is what i meant by smoothing. the map can't jump all over the place, it needs to be smooth and make sense not just in the active cell, but the ones that surround so that fueling doesn't become erratic. i was relying on the mixture map too much and not interpolating the changes to the surrounding cells, i will make sure to do that from now on, pretty silly to have to say that out loud now that i have said it... I actually didn't know that, makes a lot of sense why you would want that to be the max ignition for idle! I very much appreciate you following up

Went for a drive this morning, ambient temps were about 10F lower than yesterday, so i stopped a few times and let it idle to get hot. It never stalled but did have some trouble staying alive at the very end. I have been relying on the Mixture Map feature a lot to adjust the fueling as i drive but i never applied a smoothing afterwards, was that one of my issues? Also, for the idle i had targeted 14deg +/- 5deg, since 14 was what i have in the idle regions of my ignition map, I see that you have dropped that down to 5deg and the swing is -5deg to 25deg, does that just give the idle control more leeway? I also saw the MAP lockout go up from 50kpa to 80kpa, i guess when the engine gets hot it pulls less vacuum? Really appreciate the help, I have learned a lot reading these forums Log

Hello, I have an 88 RX7 NA that I am in the middle of converting to Turbo, I am running the car with the Turbo intake for now so I can tune the NA regions: 6 port NA block Turbo II intake manifold with an air intake by the battery box NA exhaust manifold without the heat shield (i think this is really heating up the intake...) MonsoonX I have been trying to street tune it and for the most part it runs well once warmed up, but once the under hood temps start to pick up and my IATs reach 130F (54C), the car does not want to idle and will just stall out. Looking at the date, it seems as if the A/F mixture is going rich as things heat up, so maybe I need to adjust my Charge Air Temp Approx table some more. All other Fuel Corrections are turned off at the moment. Have a look around 25:08 where i am trying to keep the car alive at idle when the IATs are hot, you can see the stall. Any leads or help is greatly appreciated! Links: Intake Tune Log

thank you so much for sharing, i was finding a similar shape and low numbers like you have, mine are just higher. I am going to try to lower mine and see what happens. I was finding that the engine would stall at idle when things got too hot.

would you mind sharing what your table looks like? trying to get a sense for a proper shape

hey @Pete_89t2, i know this is an old topic by now, but i was just curious if you were able to get some better numbers? I feel like on my RX-7 the exhaust and general heat held within the intake manifold are influencing the actual temperature of the air. I noticed that if my Charge Temp gets too warm, the car has trouble idling and will stall quite often, so I am looking for other ways to set this table properly. I have watched this Webinar: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/075-charge-temperature-compensation-link-g4/ Andre seems to take advantage of a dyno, which i don't have easy access to, so i was hoping to do this in my garage or with some logs from a drive

i put in your adjustments and the car runs WAY better, super appreciate it!

thanks! i am curious how you worked out the dead time table? i can't find anything close from the data they sent me...

have you tried to disconnect all of the sensors and try again? i'm wondering if there is a ground fault somewhere generating feedback. ideally you can power up just the ecu with nothing else connected

I ended up adjusting things down a little, 30% seems to be what the stock sensor and gauge reports at operating temp and my car seems to be around 190F for that.

I have purchased 1000cc injectors from https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/ and I would like to make sure that I have properly configured my injectors based on the attached spreadsheet. The data for ECU Link seems to be spread out across multiple tabs so I just want to double check that i put it all in correctly. Appreciate the help! 1000cc(6117)48mmev14_03242022.xlsx

awesome, thanks!

I finally am at my car and the suggestions seem to be working but i am seeing a fault from Aux 6 and the manual says "the hardware is not happy". What does that mean and how can I increase it's happiness?

Ah I see what you mean, thanks for explaining. The engine is a rotary, which would require the Staged Injection to meet the fuel demand without having the primaries work too hard. The question I have for myself is if I have enough injector for the secondaries, I went 1000cc for all 4 injectors. Thanks again

Reading over the documentation it would seem that the Secondary Extra mode is being removed and the Sec/Pri Ratio mode transitions from the Primary to Secondary only. Does that mean that if the Primary and Secondary injectors are the same size, having 0 in the Secondary Injection Table is the same as putting in any value in there? Meaning that, since the injectors are the same size, we can't achieve more fuel?