INSW20
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Posts posted by INSW20
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To close the loop on this one, I wired in my cruise sensor to DI4, and ended up turning pullup On to get it to read, for anyone else considering doing this. Now I just need to calibrate against GPS. So far so good!
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After a minor issue, wires are swapped, and updated the arming threshold to 0.5V during cranking. Does this all look good now? Thanks!
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Before.... =( I'll go try it again and only click capture while cranking
Turns out I'm a rookie. So while we're here, how does this all look? A friend suggested my polarity might be backwards on my crank trigger.
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Here's another capture
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I tried cranking tonight with my new trigger setup, using a BEAMS crank gear, and maintaining the stock distributor for cam sync on my gen2 3sgte. I didn't move any trigger 2 wires, only changed the trigger 1 wiring to go to the crank sensor and to pin 26 signal ground. Here's what I'm seeing for my trigger scope:
What did I screw up?
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21 hours ago, Vaughan said:
The 3 pin cruise sensor is only used for cruise control but if the cable setup is in a bad way you could theoretically wire it up to the ECU as well and calibrate the ECU to suit. The Power steering does use the speed signal from the dash though so improving that is still a good idea.
On my car I installed a later gauge cluster (needed different plugs) and ran a hall sensor from the gearbox to the ECU with the ECU sending the speed to the gauge cluster speedometer so that I could correct for different wheel sizes. ST18X Celicas have a mechanical to electrical conversion on the gearbox that screws onto the MR2 gearbox too or later gearboxes (with the better synchros and lsd diffs) have hall sensors in them with no provision for a speedo cable.
Ah, looking more closely at the diagram, I see it now:
Another question, do we know what kind of signal is created by the cruise sensor if I wired that directly to a DI?
13 hours ago, essb00 said:The speed reading spikes are caused by high frequency noise being picked up by the DI. Try this simple low pass filter circuit below (just if you have some electronic parts lying around).
This solved similar problem on mine (though on G4x).
Very interesting! I'll see if me and my friend (his car is having the issue, mine is in pieces still) can get that done. Thank you!!
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Yep, it's an earlier car. It has a 3 wire sensor (I assume hall effect?) that's used for the cruise control speed sensor on the OEM setup. The sensor goes between the mechanical sender and the cable that goes up to the cluster. I'll look for mechanical issues and cable friction problems on it. Thank you all! =)
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That appears to have mostly fixed it. Is it normal for it to jump around quite a bit? It seems like when wheel speed approaches 40mph it goes wild. Wiring issue?
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I'll try that and report back. Thank you!
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On 11/29/2022 at 4:00 PM, Vaughan said:
So "Driven Wheel Speed" is always zero? can you take a log of a short drive and attach it here?
correct. log attached. thank you!
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Any ideas? Car is using a completely stock engine and body harness. 1991 MR2 turbo with ABS and cruise control. PNP TST185+
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First thing I noticed upon opening your map is your fuel pressure is set to 21.8PSI:
I'd start by aligning that to your actual base pressure and see if anything else is working better after that.
EDIT: I read your post more closely, I would still reset your base pressure to match reality. Seems like there’s a different problem to me. Where is your wideband mounted?
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Having a hard time getting wheel speed to read. What am I doing wrong?
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On 10/5/2022 at 11:21 PM, Adamw said:
I would also unplug the lambda and confirm voltages at the DTM4 that it connects to.
With your multimeter measuring between ground and one of the 4 DTM pins you should see the following voltages if wiring is good:
- Pin 1 = ~12V.
- Pin 2 = 0V.
- Pin 3 = ~1.0-2.0V.
- Pin 4 = ~3.0-4.0V.
To close the loop on this, that was the problem. Using a non-Link (BTI) harness with a BTI gauge and they're pinned differently. Changed pin locations and now it's working flawlessly.
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
No the internal ecu termination resistor is difficult to remove - but I have never see a lack of a resistor or extra resistors cause no coms so I wouldnt worry about that too much. Termination issues you would tend to see stuff or bit errors and more traffic due to resends if really bad but it would be rare to have no coms at all. So way more likely some other issue.
The CANTEE has two DTM4 output plugs. Unplug the one that is going to the gauge since we know that one is working and plug the CAN lambda directly into that same plug.
Due to the way the gauge connectors were configured, the ECU and lambda are both on the output plugs, and the gauge is on the typical “input” plug. But we’ll try swapping output plugs between the ECU and the lambda and see if the gauge still works to verify operation on both output leads.
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1 hour ago, Electredge said:
unplug the controller and measure ohms between the 2 can wires, what do you get?
I'm working on this one remotely, but sounds like they're reading 42ohms across hi and low. The gauge "should" have come with a single resistor, but crazier things have happened.
36 minutes ago, Adamw said:I dont see anything wrong with the general ECU setup.
Is the gauge getting power from the 4pin DTM or is it getting power from separate wires?
If you unplug the gauge and plug the lambda into the gauge connection then go to >CAN setup>CAN Devices>find devices, does it find the lambda?
It's getting power through a CANTEE that it shares with the gauge. Power is from switched fuse from the fuse/relay box in the engine bay. Is there a resistor that's easily accessible in the ECU we can remove to test? The gauge is apparently a big pain to access to remove the extra resistor.
The way the harness was built I don't think the BTI and CanLambda will plug in to the same connector.
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17 minutes ago, Electredge said:
do you have a resistor at the CAN Lambda controller? where is the CAN lambda controller located? engine bay?
No resistor at the controller. I thought the ECU had a built-in resistor, and the gauge should take care of the 2nd resistor. Controller is located next to the ECU in the trunk (MR2 chassis).
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6 minutes ago, Electredge said:
I assume the CAN lambda is wired into CAN Bus 1, is the BTI on the same bus? where do you have resistors placed?
Correct, both on can1. BTI is showing data on its screen without issue. Resistor is in the back of the gauge. I have an almost identical setup on another car only with the Link CanGauge instead of the BTI and it works flawlessly, for whatever that's worth.
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Hoping there's just something silly I missed on this. Running a canlambda with a BTI gauge using a cantee. BTI is working fine. Can't seem to get any communication from the canlambda. Haven't run the engine yet, but there's just nothing showing up at all. Thanks!
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I currently have my engine out and apart, and have as good an opportunity as ever to change to a crank trigger using an OEM gear and sensor. What I'm having trouble with is determining which return pin is dedicated to trigger 1 vs trigger 2. I will continue to use the distributor internals for trigger 2.
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On 8/5/2022 at 7:01 AM, _pkmds said:
We have same settings expect that I have speed lockout enabled (which doesn't work because thr ISC valve is always "ON" how much Hz you set ? 250 or 200? 3D table works perfect tho. Thanks for the information
The afr is correct tho. In cold it has 13.5 when it goes to 50c then it has stable 14.7. when i tuned the ISC I turned off closed loop i saw how much actual DC values it needed to have the RPM target e.t.c. the problem is that my Idle ignition control is tuned around -5 , -2 and 0. The ignition table at idle cells is 15 degrees . If i reduce it it helps a lot but i have bad behavior because if i cruise between 1200-1500 rpm i have really low ignition angle and feels like the car is struggling to accelerate. I'll show you some screenshots
mine is set to 200hz. why are you running negative ignition advance at idle? the idle ignition table is a lookup table, not an "adder" table. so if you set idle ignition to -5, you will be firing the coil at -5 degrees. my 3sgte also seems happy idling at about 15 degrees
This solved similar problem on mine (though on G4x).
Failed throttle blip
in G4+
Posted
Am I sucking too much fuel off the port walls before I blip my throttle? Or what else am I doing wrong? Usually my blips are just fine, but on my drive home today (~40 miles) I had two instances after some engine braking where I had no throttle response. Tach stayed running the entire time, so I don't think it was trigger related.
First time I was engine braking down a hill, got to the bottom and eased back onto throttle and had zero response. (no log available, ECU log filled up)
Second time I was trying to blip for a downshift and had a dead pedal. Engine didn't try to die, just didn't pick up. Pretty sure this spot in the log was it.
5sgte - 2.13.2023.pclr