beninnz

Cool thanks, have messaged you just now.

None of those apply to me, so sounds like it should be BAP and not MAP as the equation load source... definitely feels like I need to seriously reconsider taking it back for them to finish it given where the map is right now. I'll flick you a PM about tuning it Looks like I can't send you a message (I get an error 'Adamw cannot receive messages') so if you could please message me or let me know how I can get in touch that'd be great. I'm in Auckland too so would be keen to tee something up if possible.

I've finally got my new engine in and running in my Lotus thanks to lots of help from the team here. ECU is G4X StormX. Engine is Rover K Series 1.8 4 cylinder with individual throttle bodies. Cams are 288 deg duration, 11.3mm lift with 3.38mm LATDC on the inlet and 3.10mm LATDC on the exhaust (so a fair amount of overlap). I took it to the dyno tuner the other week for the tune, including a full run-in on the dyno as the engine was completely new (self-built). They said they were having issues with erratic vacuum signal / not enough vacuum and couldn't complete the tuning. They thought my cam timing was out (by 30+ deg!) and that this was causing the issues they were seeing. The engine is an interference engine so if the timing was that far out I'm pretty sure I would've had piston to valve contact and it also wouldn't have started/idled as well as it was before I dropped it off to them. I got it home and re-checked the cam timing with DTI gauges - it's bang-on as per Piper's specs for these cams. I've also done a compression test and a cylinder leak down test. Both of those were great, engine seems to be fine from what I can see. I had already connected vacuum lines from the ITBs (behind the throttle plates) that join into a vacuum block. This vacuum block then feeds the fuel pressure regulator and the Link 1.15 bar MAP sensor. The tuner is recommending fabricating a vacuum canister to dampen the vacuum signal from the vacuum block before it goes to the MAP sensor but now I'm wondering if that's even the right path to go down given the cam specs of my engine? They mainly tune Hondas and I'm a bit worried they're heading down the wrong path. Before I take my car back for the final tune, can someone please verify how they think this type of engine should be tuned? I've attached their current work-in-progress map for reference. The throttle response is also really poor, especially from low revs. I can see they've set it up with dual fuel tables. Fuel table 1 uses MGP as load, while table 2 uses TPS as load. The HP Academy courses I've done and webinars I've watched all recommended fine grain steps at low throttle openings when using ITBs but they've got it really coarse (0,10,20,30,40,60,80,100) in table 2 and with no entries for values below 20% TPS. I'm assuming Fuel table 1 is meant to fill in the blanks but given the poor vacuum (to be expected with my cams) I'm not sure that's actually going to work well. Any suggestions here? Thanks in advance! Lotus Elise S2 ITBs - TorquePerformance run in tune map.pclx

I got mine set up just the other week. From memory what I had to do was open Device Manager, then right click on the 'Link Engine Management ltd' device. Select 'Update Driver' and then select 'Browse my computer for drivers'. The next step is where I originally had failed. I had originally just pointed it to the directory that the downloaded drivers were in but that didn't work. What did work for me was to select 'Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer'. Then I selected the FTDI device from the list and selected 'Have Disk'. Then I clicked 'Browse' and selected the FTDIBUS.inf file. Then I repeated the same process with the FTDIPORT.inf file. Hopefully that helps.

Thanks for the pointers Adam. You were right that something was keeping the ignition switch high. It wasn't the alternator light though, it was the missing front clam & disconnected headlights... as soon as I plugged in the front right headlight the engine happily switched off! I knew it'd be something simple. So thanks for the pointers. Am still a bit confused as to why the ECU Hold Power 'state' shows as 'Active' when the engine is running though as the Help guide suggests that it should show as 'Inactive' when the engine is running. But either way it seems to be working as intended now. Cheers, Ben

Replying to myself, realised I'd missed out the radiator fan relays which are in a separate 'multi function relay unit' (MFRU) in the front of the car. Have updated diagram and attached below. The relay unit enables the fans to run either in series (half speed) or in parallel (full speed). The relays are triggered using 2x spare ignition outputs on my ECU. I originally had these triggered of AUX outputs but couldn't get the ECU Hold Power to work (prior to getting the engine running). Once I switched them over to spare IGN outputs it seemed to work (at least in my testing before I had the engine running). I'll try running the car and switching it off with the 2 radiator fan relay pins disconnected from the ECU tomorrow morning to see if I can isolate the problem.

Finally got the engine running (see other thread here) and now I'm chasing down the next gremlin I've set up the ECU for Hold Power so that I can run the radiator fans and electric water pump after engine shutdown if needed (to protect the cylinder head). I thought I'd followed the guide correctly (G4X Scheme 2) but I've obviously done something wrong as the engine won't switch off - it keeps running until I pull the fuel pump connector. When I'd been testing the hold power functionality before I had the engine running it worked fine - ECU shut down 15s after switch off. ECU Hold Power settings in ECU: Output: Aux 8 Aux 8 Active State: Low Aux 8 Driver Type: Low Side Keep Alive Time: 15s Kill Until Stalled: No Attached is a drawing I've done of my wiring set up for the main power / relays. Would be great if someone was able to point out where I've gone wrong

It’s alive! Will be great to get a ‘proper’ fix so I can take advantage of the recent firmware updates & fixes, but for now at least it’s running. What a great early Xmas present:) Thanks team. It’s alive! Will be great to get a ‘proper’ fix so I can take advantage of the recent firmware updates & fixes, but for now at least it’s running. What a great early Xmas present:) Thanks team.

Yeah understand it's not the best time of year Could you give me a sense of whether you think this will get prioritised to be fixed though? I work in B2B SaaS product development and there's plenty of small bugs & feature requests across my teams that unfortunately don't get addressed because they don't impact enough people to offset our cost to resolve. Keen to get a steer as to whether you think my issue here might fall into that camp in which case I can start figuring out a Plan B..

Was his really a different trigger? I’m using 14,3,13,2 like he mentioned in the other post.. Any idea on ETA for a fix if his one won’t work for my config? I’ve got the dyno booked for the week I get back from holidays in Jan so am hoping it’s not a biggie

ok so my hunch might've been right then? If so, are you able to supply the firmware @Adamw talked about in that other thread?

Having issues getting my freshly built engine running for the first time. Previously had the ECU connected with an adapter harness into the factory engine loom with the old engine and managed to get it to start & run (thanks to some help in the forums here after missing the ignition module!). Engine is Rover K Series, and ecu is G4X Storm X. New engine now in and with a new loom and engine harness. Some slight differences from when I had it running before - new engine has 288deg cams, individual throttle bodies, and the cylinder head has a cam position sensor on the inlet cam with a VR sensor (original engine had a hall effect sensor on the exhaust cam). It also has a lightweight flywheel which has a different trigger pattern to the old engine. I've confirmed timing with a timing light, have tried both 61 deg and -299 deg. When set at 61deg I get a few backfires and it sounds like it wants to start but no dice. I confirmed triggers are working and i'm pretty confident I've set the basics right but quite possible I've missed something really obvious. Have attached tune, trigger scope, and log. Would love to get this started pre-xmas! I've seen one other person on these forums had an issue but not sure if mine is similar or not (couldn't tell by looking at my trigger scope) - their post is here: Thanks in advance, Ben. TriggerScopeLog 2023-12-18 1347.llgx PC Datalog - 2023-12-18 1;43;36 pm.llgx Lotus Elise s2 G4X ITB 1st start.pclx

Ok thanks, I thought that might be the case! I'll fire an email through now.

Yep did that already too, no resistance there either. Cheers, Ben

Hey Adam Yep, pins are both pushed the whole way through. With ignition off no resistance measured across the white & green pins at all.