Clattie

I will hopefully update you guys on this on the weekend, not been home for a while!

I will but i do have the internal pull-ups on... wouldn't read triggers with an external one.

I know, I just don't want to use a distributor as the whole build is already setup for a crank sensor with the harness to match.

Trigger Error has only just started to happen, the sensors are actually really commonly used.. maybe the wheel could be an issue? I don't want to use a distributor either. Yes the link for the file has been updated with the current map and log file.

1. I've just uploaded a new link to the old comment for the map file. So I don't need to bother with the base idle now? 2. I'll get a scope when it's running when I can, Maybe it's the slight issue Adam mentioned with the tooth gap? Yes I'm also running the Racer x Kit

Right, I edited all the suggestions and fired it up today, it running a lot better and it isn't bogging down but now it's running around 2000 RPM... Would this be to do with my fueling? Also, I wasn't sure what Derek was talking about when he was referring to the ignition table being advanced by 20 degrees in the "idle range" as I've loaded up the stock MR2/ST205 Map and it's exactly the same. Again complete novice lol, don't know what that means yet. Here's my setup and running log, although I didn't get a full 30 seconds for the lambda to fire up as someone at home was sleeping after a night shift Link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ufr_cIgun4jqJUJMh5bT9ObafHruG5pu/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1omn_CtZHXUwrYJSUPXpN58m78UaiNGU8/view?usp=sharing (New Links) UPDATE - I've just looked at the log file and it seems i have 170 trigger errors but no ECU code. Whats the deal with that?

Okay mate cheers, ill try and get it to idle for 30 seconds and see if it's 'operating' with some sort of A/F Ratio.

Probably have not had it running over 30 seconds, that explains that. (I thought it was used to adjust for idle somehow during start-up). How does it actually adjust the idle then, what does it use? I'm using the Link Wideband as recommended, some guy said it also feedbacks more info than regular controllers or something along them lines.... it was ages ago now.

1. Lambda is currently reading 0. Does it take a while to calibrate? 2. Done 5. Okay, I will move the Crank 90 degrees from TDC and then adjust the missing teeth to hit the sensor instead. Then setup ignition timing once again.

BUMP

1. I did a first start at *2 last time and my spark plugs came out black, should I try something a little lower? 2. I've turned off the IAT Trim table but how exactly do I copy the charge temp table and how do I find it? Do you mean write it in manually or is there a shortcut like copy and paste? (I saw 3 different charge temp tables in the 'charge temp correction' section of the help file but I don't know which one to use). 3. Done 4. Done 5. I'll try and have a look tonight if I have time, so I'll report back on that. The car wouldn't start 360 degrees in the other direction... should I spin the toothed wheel 90 degrees and redo ignition timing if that is the case? UPDATE - I span the crank to TDC and yep it's sitting right on the missing tooth... I was just told to place it anywhere and set it up on the ECU but I'm guessing this is causing a problem I'm unaware of. Picture attached below Image Link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1--B5i5FrES06i1EK36nAPzYx8OvXzEfd/view?usp=sharing

HI Derek, complete novice so I'm just trying to get it as ready as I can for a tune by someone else. Although the ignition timing is spot on. I've not intentionally set 20 degrees of timing as i don't even know where that is but I've corrected the base idle to the stock MR2 Map now. Maybe it is something to do with the two? As it doesn't bog out when I'm on the throttle.

Hi guys, I got my car running the other day but it's not idling... Admittedly I purchased a Plug and Play ECU for my 1994 MR2 Turbo but as time has gone on I've heavily modified the car with a completely modernized setup including a PDM, E-throttle, Boost Controller, etc... you get the jist. I've attached two log files below plus my config, I'm also running an aftermarket COP kit (with cam sensor) from racer x, 844cc Injectors at 43.5PSI fuel pressure, Garrett g25-660 turbo, custom intake manifold, custom exhaust manifold, straight pipe. Is this just an issue of using the startup map for a non-modified MR2? I just need to get the plumbing for my charge cooler and radiator sorted and then I'm looking to go on the dyno or street tune. Link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-YL0ofD18pntwZI0vq_4Pd0XG1I0ZSqS/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EBKz4jgY0mZhEDtzN6u9mwspOtZjAV8_/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RwzbPxQkS4mLJdxjPLOBxJiZya8PgQYy/view?usp=sharing, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1omn_CtZHXUwrYJSUPXpN58m78UaiNGU8/view?usp=sharing

Wouldn't my setup be fine then? I've got both my ECU and coil grounds attached to a single bolt on the engine head.

Nice I'll do that tonight, can you explain why for my own educational purposes?

Yep the AP Sub was set to 66%, that solves all the problems! cheers Adam. On a side note though, what does that percentage value do? Wouldn't you want it at 100% all the time?

So my timing light is working again, randomly... Yes I think it's set alot lower so that would explain things, I'll have a look at that when I'm home! Cheers Adam

So I tested the timing light on a new 2022 Audi a1, and it worked perfectly... Any ideas? I also noticed fault code 77 which was a tracking fault on the APS, How can I resolve that issue? I've taken a log via manual calibration and a log after auto-calibration. I gave it some leeway with the manual calibration but nothing changed. Manual Calibration (Manual Voltages) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/14FoR0uU3gl8mKhAGy61kyiSC4WnMrm7K/view?usp=sharing After Auto-Calibration (using the calibration tool) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vJVsvpcUKATjgVKSUGwc_1DI78wRMOCp/view?usp=sharing

Never even thought about that! I'll give that a go!

Will do, coils are all grounded to the head, why would 12v disappear during cranking? Yes, I've clamped it to a coil on plug extension lead with it facing correctly. I have actually had the car started very lumpy but my settings never saved, I came around to resetting the ignition timing again a few weeks later. Still, my timing light was very intermittent and now doesn't seem to work at all. I've also clamped it to the coil loom and I'm getting nothing from that either. Note - My coils are grounded to the same bolt on the head as my ecu if that makes any difference.

So everything looks good then? Maybe it is just the timing light, have you got any recommendations on a decent timing light as everything seems to be Chinese. I'll pull the plugs out tomorrow and see if they spark.

Will do, I'm using 1ZZ-FE coils from an MR2 Parts company but I'm not sure if they are genuine pencil coils as they are around £70 for 4 File link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ANse9LUssZsBUjJCFDbMvVtfWAWWpzKT/view?usp=drive_link

I've logged my PDM and my coils seem to be firing in a decent regulated pattern during cranking and they are pulling about 0.76A peak. Now on my ecu log during cranking all ignition outputs are active but my duty and frequency don't change what so ever. Any ideas? I'm assuming my timing light isn't firing because the coils are not producing enough volts or something like that? Coil Testing 3.llgx

Literally just doing it now, I did notice all the spark plug Holes had water in (common on mr2's) had a slight bit of corrosion of the plugs themselves to so ive ordered some new ones. Im gunna check the spark on cylinder one after ive cleaned it all out. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4GcXH6jXp7HM1bEG8

Good Afternoon Fixed the pressure issue, one of the pins had gotten pushed further back in the ecu plug causing it not to connect. The next problem is starting, I altered my master fuel from 9ms to 6ms as I'm running 820cc Injectors over the standard 550cc injectors. The engine is firing but its very weak and doesn't want to get going. FYI all my sensors look spot on but the lambda is sat at 0, I'm not sure if this is normal but it expects it to change a little with the slight burn. Here's a video of what it sounds like - https://photos.app.goo.gl/FKyydToACpJBWUtG6