Clattie

I've also tried this way and still no luck. This is how I originally had it. Maybe the ECU is faulty?

I've shoved the prongs down the back of the connector with the sensor installed and everything is powered up, sensor is dropping from 5v to 0v just fine... I've included this diagram to show you my exact setup... is something wrong?

So I've tested everything again and it all seems just fine. Sensors powered from 5v at the ecu Sensor Signal are the right pinout at ecu Sensor signal ground to ecu signal ground 5v from signal at the harness 5v from ecu 5v supply at the harness 0v from signal ground at the harness 1k ohm resistor between 5v and signal which is reading around 0.988 ohms. Sensor is also dropping from 4.5v to 0v on the bench test which indicates its grounding. When using the trigger scope and not cranking I'm just getting waves of what I think is noise on the scope? Shouldn't it just be a steady 4.5 or atleast somewhat steady? Honestly can't think what the issue could be. I've just noticed the signal wire is sat at around 5v too? Surely this is a problem? ALL TEST ON HARNESS SIDE IN ENGINE BAY. SIGNAL - Multimeter on Signal and Grounded to engine head (Around 5v) SIGNAL GROUND - Multimeter on Signal Ground and Grounded to engine head (Around 0v) 5V SUPPLY - Multimeter on 5v Supply and Grounded to Engine Head (Around 5v)

Must be something to do with either the voltage or resistor then... I'll ask on the MR2 forums and see if anyone has had a similar issue.

Not really, but I guess I'll have to do it somehow. I've already tested it on the bench and it's showing 1k resistance too. Would my shielded cable ran Into the signal ground cause any issues? I've got it wired this way but I'm thinking it should be on power ground now.

Sooo, I tested one of the replacements today and I'm still getting a solid 4.5v I've tried it inside the cam housing and with a few tools infront of it but nothing. I'll have to get the other one out of the packaging and bench test it.

Yes, the video was too large. I've ordered two replacements which I'm hoping to test this weekend. fingers crossed...

Heres some photos and video to show you, just so we're on the same page. That was using a 1k ohm resistor which wasn't recommended for 12v.

I tried this today Adam and the voltage stays at +12v with 0 change. Does this mean a bust sensor?

I'm working away now, could I also test this with resistance too? If so I could get someone at home to do quick test. Pull the sensor out, probe signal ground and signal wire and then move something in front?

Update - I've now whittled it down to the sensor grounding, the wiring is all 100% fine but I'm not getting any ground unless I manually short the ground to the signal wire. it may be that both sensors have been fried during the wiring or setting up. Any other bright ideas as to what it could potentially be?

Today I switched the sensor over to a 5v power from the ECU and put two 1kohm resistors between signal and 5v on both cam and crank sensor as per specification sheet. Now thankfully... I am getting a trig signal 'yes' for both triggers, although no voltage and 1 or 2 spikes on the scope. Someone has mentioned it could be my resistor but I've only followed the spec sheet from the manufacturer.

Yes, that was my point, I was thinking that not bridging an external resistor between the power and signal was a wiring error of my own fault. But as you've just explained it doesn't matter. I still get 3.6v but I get no wavelength on the graph. I'll get someone to hold the wire in place of the short tomorrow incase something wasn't 100% contacting the pins and go from there.

But the document also states the external pull-up should be bridged between two wires. Output and power, I don't have any resistors in the wiring, and the internal pull-up is on the output wire only. I've checked the continuity between all the wires and they are fine, I've also made sure my cable shielding is grounded properly too, as you said my voltage looks good as well so I'm not sure what else to check.

Sorry, I don't understand what you mean.

Hi guys, I'm looking to start my project car this week but I'm getting no signal from either my Cam or Crank Sensor on an aftermarket COP kit.Cranking.llgx However, I am getting a constant voltage of around 3.66 with and without cranking... I'm running two hall effect sensors (GS1005-GS1007) with a 60-2 missing tooth trigger wheel, note that the hall effect sensors need a 2.4k ohm resistor but I'm not sure what the internal resistor is on the link ecu. Does anyone have any bright ideas? I'm going to retest tomorrow because I must not of saved the change from the reluctor to the hall effect sensor. Edit #1 - The documentation states that the sensors require an external pull-up resistor between the signal wire and the power wire (I was under the impression I could just activate the internal one on the signal wire), it also says on the document that it's compatible with 5v. Is this common? I'm going to rewire it tomorrow and hopefully save an output on my PDM by switching it over to 5V and get these working! Without Cranking.llgx A MR2 MAP.pclx

Just seen it was my charge cooler temp sensor which isn't installed yet.

Here's the latest from today and the e-throttle is now working. Do these values look normal?

It seems like I may not have saved the file after configuring the IAT but surely the ECT is still off? As I said it was around 0 degrees celsius that day and the car is parked outside 24/7.

First one it was, I'm pretty sure I set it to that. So im gunna assume the ECT sensors may be different than stock. I could always go aftermarket anyways.

I'm using the IAT-8 is it? Off the top of my head. The model number is very similar atleast. I think the ETC is wrong as it was 0°C that day. Seems wayy too high, I was thinking could it be warmer inside the block but surely that can't be the case. Yes I wasn't sure about adding custom sensors to the link software, I know AEM and other brands sometimes tend to use generic sensors and stick their label on it so I just chosen the generic one. That should sort it. I'm home Friday morning so I can start double checking all this on the car.

I'm running the stock gen 3 3sgte ect sensor (I believe they are a delphi or GM brand maybe) and a AEM 3.5 bar map. https://primemr2.com/products/coolant-temp-sensor-gen2-3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000CFUN3C/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item

Right I see, so your allowing upto 90% of power opening and closing the throttle, does this just determine how violent or tame the opening and closing of the body will be? And I'm assuming the idle min and max clamp will be the largest and lowest tolerance the throttle body is allow to wonder in them set idle conditions? The car hasn't been started but I also noticed this, maybe its something to do with sensor calibration as there was no option for my particular sensors. I think the IAT is right though as I selected the link sensor and was reading exactly as it should. ECT and Map I have no clue though, these values were from turning over the engine but no start. I was checking Oil pressure which was hitting 50psi. A MR2 MAP.pclx

I've attached my pclx file below. I see what you mean now, it may make more sense to have more range of play down below but not necessarily too much like modern day economical cars, mainly for control at lower speeds and not having to tippy toe the throttle lower down the range. I've also upped my throttle body from 50mm or so to 76mm, so like others have said it may make sense for me to widen that range lower down as i've now upped the throttle inlet size as you were saying. It says in the help file that my min and max dc clamp should be lower using a e-throttle so i've set them both at -30% and 30%, i'm not too sure what this does though, is this the max the software can open and close the body? Such as idle, cruise control etc..? A MR2 MAP.pclx

How do i upload a copy of the configuration? Do you mean the configuration page like i've added at the start of the page? I've never used any sort of ECU tuning program in my life. I definitely want a 1:1 ratio so i can modulate everything myself. I don't want a big area of hardly any throttle and a small area of a lot, i know it is smoother to do it this way but i prefer complete control. I've added some more images below to show you what i've setup from the info you have provided, if this is correct?