Clattie

3 wire aftermarket. Right I'll give that a go, it's not moving from 0 what so ever but it was fine the other day. Maybe it was that causing problems.

So I I've changed the ignition timing to -350 which is what seemed best on the opposite end of the stroke and it sounds like it wants to turn over now rather than backfiring. BUT... as I went to crank a third time to try and get it to start, I noticed I had 0 oil pressure. Could the backfire somehow of caused my sensor to be damaged in my oil sump? Engine all sounds normal and healthy when its cranking though.

I didnt think about that, luckily I've capped off one of the ports on my intake with this special rubber tape we use at work so it should of acted as a pressure release. I'll have to see if it's come off. I'll update tomorrow on the results!

By the sounds of it, that's the issue as there will be fuel in the cylinder and hardly any air when it's igniting cause a really rich mixture and a backfire to follow?

Right so the cam could be at the opposite end of its cycle (Exhaust stroke and piston on its exhuast cycle) rather than near the top of its compression stroke? I'll give it another crank tomorrow with a fully charged battery, If it backfires again I'll try -345. Assuming I'll need to modulate the throttle as I do this?

So I've just changed the ignition offset to 15 and now the crank pulley mark and 15 line up when cranking. Gave it one test crank but it backfired again, like 8 pm here so I doubt the neighbors are happy XD Any advice on getting it to start? I'm running 41psi fuel pressure FYI, gen 3 3sgte. edit - timing offset was out by 5 degree, parallax effect lol, too dark to see out there. But I did crank it again for around 5 seconds no start... battery bogged and went flat then. any other things I need to do before first start? And should i modulate the throttle as i crank? Ive not set any idling up yet, just the base map with all sensors calibrated, cop setup and e throttle is working in test mode.

Makes the most sense, I was just curious to see if it made any difference? Literally just a reference for timing and nothing more then.

Righhhtttt, Some other people have mentioned that they used the 10 mark foe their 3s and 5s builds on the link forum. What difference does that mark? And if I did go that route I'd just change the reference to 10 and then fiddle with the offset until it reaches 10 correct?

That's what I meant by marking sorry, highlighting the marks with a pen. So I'd highlight the numbers and crank Pulley mark, Then do I try to get the marking on 0 or 15 while the timing light is firing? I'm guessing 15 because you want to fire the coil just before tdc?

I know but where would I place my reference mark on the belt? Would I mark 0 and keep changing the offset until it reaches 15 btdc or mark 15 and change the offset until it reaches 15 btdc? I'll see if anyone has some lying around, if not I'll use one of them

I can also just hold the plug open on top of the coil too? As I don't have any old plugs. So would I mark 0 or 15 degrees as my timing light point on the belt/housing? 15 I'm guessing as that's what I've locked my timing reference to. Okay, I'll change that now so it's ready for when the timing light comes.

I know the timing on the engine is set up or are you referring to software timing as I'm now using direct spark? I just had a quick look online and I need to get a timing light so I can basically set the TDC mark for the ECU? As it technically doesn't know where the engine reaches TDC? I'll purchase a timing light tonight... Is it just a case of marking the 0 TDC on the crank and belt, cranking the engine over, and adjusting the timing in the ECU settings until the mark lines up with 15? I'm going to assume that means the coils will fire 15 degrees before TDC as the ignition timing is locked to 15 degrees on the base map as seen below in the 2nd attachment.

Here's both my Cam and C I've just ran both cam and crank and they both seem to be working, I'm running a 60-2 wheel. I test-cranked the engine with the fuel pump running and i heard it turned over for a second, 2nd time cranking it backfired. is that normal or will i have to alter something? I'm running the link base map, stock engine with with custom everything including turbo, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, catch can etc etc...

Right!!! I connected it to 12v, cut the external resistor, and activated the internal pull-up like another MR2 Owner said and it worked first time. But I've taken screenshots of my trigger scope window (The crank sensor is not plugged in at the moment) just to make sure everything looks okay. As I'm not 100% with trigger scopes.

Makes sense then, so the filtering would make that look more "readable"? I'm going to start fresh with the wiring again today and follow the circuit one by one. Crank is currently unplugged anyways as it's a pain to access, you know mr2's.

Sounds like it could potentially help. I'll rip it apart tomorrow and start from the ground up. If all else fails I'll try the 12v method someone else mentioned. One more thing I keep banging on about is how my Trigger scope looks? Mine doesn't look like anyone else's.

No, all of my wiring is colour coded and it's all been check about 10 times just because of this issue. I've also done continuity checks down the harness just to double confirm.

Sorry again, its 2am here so I'm not really thinking. I had the multimeter between signal and ground in which I got 5V (I'm not using 12v that was just a quick test earlier) I put an object infront and it shorted to 0v which is perfect. But still not shorting in the trigger scope. (Althought it shorts in the trigger scope when bridges with a cable).

Sorry, I think there's been some confusion here I was just showing what values I was getting at the sensor plug end. The two images below are how I've been testing, so surely wouldn't need to check the center Deutch dt12 plug. (I didn't include the 3 way plug in the last diagram) 1st image - Testing the sensor with a multimeter (sensor shorts to 0v when bringing object up to the front of it) 2nd image - Testing to see if the trigger scope shorts to 0v (Which it does with the bridge in place) This is why I don't have a clue why the trigger scope isn't shorting to 0v with the sensor plugged in and an object in front... As every other variable is working fine!

Nope, I bridged it at the plug for the sensor right at the end of the harness. As I was just testing this temporarily I wired it straight from the battery so it was a constant 12v. This is what I mean, it's just not making any sense, as it works fine but the trigger scope isn't detecting the change with the sensor plugged in, however a multimeter is detecting the short. It's just showing this constantly no matter what I do... Cranking, Not Cranking, Holding multiple objects in front of it, tapping multiple objects on it. (But on the other hand, the multimeter is showing it drop from 4.5v to 0v so the sensor is definitely okay. And we know the harness is okay because we've shorted the signal and signal ground at the sensor plug and it's showing 0v on the trigger scope.

That's the problem the ECU scope doesn't drop to 0 unless I manually bridge signal and signal ground with a cable. It's not making any sense lol I'll try getting the multimeter on the ECU PIN tomorrow to see if that drops to 0, someone else also mentioned that they ran the same sensor and had to use 12v and the internal pull-up to get it to work... Not the first time I've heard that either. We will see what the result with the multimeter is tomorrow but I can't see any change as it works just fine with a wire bridge.

Yes if I do that the trigger scope goes straight to 0v, but with the sensor plugged in it doesn't. Honestly doesn't make sense... However, I've shoved both probs down the back with it plugged into the harness and the sensor itself is shorting just fine.. I also tested it on the bench, shorting just fine again.

Happy days, i'll be switching back to my 5v setup though for ease of wiring. Yes, my bad. It does, but not on the trigger scope. No, the sensor will not short to 0v on the trigger scope... Only with a multimeter shoved down the back of the sensor while it's connected. Trigger scope stays at around 4.5v no matter what, it's also not a flat line. I've switched back to 5v anyways, i just wanted to see if it made a difference. It won't matter anyways as I've initially tested the whole setup with 5v as the supply and 5v reference for the pull-up. I just wanted to test if 5v made a difference. I don't know what to do then I'm stumped. Maybe send the ECU and a sensor off to link for diagnostics?

So I originally had it configured as option 3 (3rd from the left) but it still wouldn't ground. I'll have to order some 2.4k resistors andtry the 4th option to see if that works. Tomorrow i will try option 1 and 2. I'm using the ecu 5v pin, all my other sensors are using this too. I'm also using sensor ground and not chassis ground. The picture below is how I originally had it wired but still no luck, FYI the 5v supply for both the sensor and resistor are on the same pin but it was easier to draw/represent this way.

I've had 5v as the supply voltage to with no change, this is what I originally had it as. Still not grounding.