Guilty Garage
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Posts posted by Guilty Garage
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If you have moved over straight from Kpro or something, Change your trigger 1 to falling. Its cause you are using K24 crank sensor likely.
Its also common to need to repin the crank sensor plug for harness's designed for 1st gen K20s. -
Running a big single turbo on a 350Z. Uses factory headers where the oem widebands have been used. Moving over to a single wideband. There is a bit of exhaust tubing but I’m trying to find the best place for a wideband placement.
It doesn’t seem like temp is the issue as it’s 24” minimum before the turbo, and 36-48+” if after the turbo. Is pressure a concern with NTK sensor and readings. I won’t be running emap so no auto compensation. It just seems like post turbo is way too down stream.
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Set your Trigger 1 to falling. I forget which mixture of K24 crank sensors, timing covers, and K20 stuff it was, but I swapped a K24 from Hondata on a K-Swap to Link and that was the solution.
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If you have your MK60 on your LinkECU's Can2, the same as your MXS, its cause its on a 1Mb bitrate and the MK60 goes at 500Kb. Luckly the ECU, MXS, and your can lambda can all be setup to run 500Kb.
Throw up a log to help with your Throttle issue. -
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If my brain isn't twisted around that's just Little Endian (LS First, Least significant bit first) for byte 4/5.
What I do is create a math block for a base line zero, then use the offset (in decimal) for each byte to equal the hex i wanna send for static values.
What value are you trying to send it on byte 4/5?
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Im stumped, you could change the value to TPS Delta Lockout to zero to disable it. Rely on MAP deltas to keep CLL out of transient conditions.
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Your lockout is from change in TPS. It also has a reactivation delay of 5 samples. The sample length is taken from your Update Rate Table, In hertz. So if you have a value of 1 in there, its gonna wait 5 seconds to activate. If you have a value of 10 there, it will reactivate in 0.5s. Lower samples and/or increase update rate.
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3 hours ago, briand.vq35 said:
I changed the bit rate and the issue went away. Assuming I had to do it that way because I used CAN 2. I made lambda 1 Analog input change as well. It runs this way however, I’m ordering the CANJST cable to change it back and use the CAN properly. Right now it’s all tied into the factory CAN H and CAN L.
Since I’ve wired it this way would this be the cause of my factory tachometer and ECT gauge to not function? Also; could this be the reason my cooling fans stay on from “key on” position until I turn to “key off”?This is what Z's do when there is no ECU on the CANBUS. Better than a crashed bus though.
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Haltech calls for "650mA Typical / 4A Peak"
CANJST4 calls for " a total continuous current draw of <3A. "
Shouldnt be an issue???
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Upload a copy of your tune. I'll guess its a bitrate thing. Z is 500 and CanLamda is 1000 by default.
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Its definitely H Bridge, Position, likely 5v, and ground. I still stand behind removing it (they make a block-off plate) or swapping manifolds. Not worth the hassle.
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I wanted to add to this question is, would it completely void any warranty to solder to the pins of the add on board (not the G4X board)
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Sounds like an H-bridge. probably same thing as DBW without the redundant position sensor. My 2cents is its not worth it. Especially with how swappable J35 parts are. Which j35 motor are you using out of what? I'm wrapping up a J35A4 setup right now on link.
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This is probably the best way to get it setup without spoofing it as something else. I'm hoping the new update (whenever that may be) will allow a little more flexibility without having to use the back door. (giggity)
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Its not completely needed and at least in Link's base tune, its not used for VTEC strategy. There is debate on whether its OE uses it for control or diagnostic.
Either A. VTEC does not engage unless VTP has switches to ensure it has enough oil pressure, if not, VTEC doesn't engage and you you get a DTC.
or B. If VTEC is engaged, but VTP has not switched, then stop VTEC and trigger DTC.
I'm sure you can incorporate it into your Conditions of VTEC Solenoid but you could also just use proper Oil Pressure Sensor values just as easily with no extra wiring. A quick google says something about being a 50PSI switch, but yeah, grain of salt.- aerace_fab and DJR
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So AIM's CAN profile only displays what they have listed and nothing more. The unfortunate part is you cant just add too it on the AIM side (you can on the link side). The alternative is pretty much creating your own from scratch. such as this.
and individual bit stuff like this
If you give me a list of everything you want, I can probably make you a file for AIM and Link to use.
One simpler alternative if you don't have anything on AIM's CAN2, wire CAN1 and CAN2 together and use CAN1 as the default Link you have, and use CAN2 as anything you want to add and you don't have to recreate everything.
I'm more likely to see a message on my IG @guilty_garage if you want me to make something
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Is there published info on what gets sent out where when "Transmit Generic Dash", "Transmit Generic Dash 2" and/or "Transmit Link AIM MSX Dash. I'm going to get a little creative with a bunch of status variables and warnings. While Link will let us broadcast multiple DBs at once, AIM will only let me receive 1 so I'm left to making the receive from scratch, it would be nice to not have to make the transmit from scratch too and just create what is lacking.
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Your wire can be anything that the person that did you wiring dream up. Right now you have your VVT Solenoids on Aux 5-8. Completely fine if that's how its wired. I feel like you would have had DBW errors if you had them mixed up. You have no DBW errors, its just targeting zero.
" I alway think the TPS will follow the signal of APS" That's one of the beauties of DBW, and actually, a 1:1 of APS to TPS is realllllly aggressive/sensitive. The table I sent has it set up to ramp in after 50%. You can do some cool stuff with it with 3D and 4D tables.
Haltech locks their CAN stuff down and barely publishes anything. You tell the IC7 what to expect in the ICC program (just select linkECU). Then you tell the link where to broadcast it. The 1400 is in decimal form, in hex it should be 0x578. Do you at least have it wired up yet? -
Final answer.... Your Target table is essentially zeroed out.
This should get you started.
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I had this issue quite a bit but been holding off on asking for help. I been attributing it to tiny stock Miata battery in the trunk with crappy factory wiring. I cant find any of my logs but voltage dipped a bit during cranking. I think my fix was setting fault delay to the maximum 2seconds. Now it really only does it on first startup after its been sitting a day or 2+. I just use a clear fault button, key cycle, and then no issue. Not sure if it helps but I have it set to Quiet When stalled.
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I'm not the expert but I'll take a crack at it.
Looks like your throttle relay (Aux2) is going high for active state and I THINK that its supposed to go low for internal.
Also... which Subaru PNP, cause I'm not sure any of them use Aux2 as the E-Throttle relay.
Edit, I see its a Fury so you could have wired it any which way you wanted and apparently don't know how to read other peoples logs.
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Best to connect Link into the canbus system and read the canbus data. You will have to get pretty creative to create with research to create a Can Stream to read the data and do the math.
This is something very basic I started on to read mine, so take it with a grain of salt.
Then you tell link where to read the stream you created. Notethe ID is in decimal and not hex.
The G5X software seems to have some new options in creating a CAN file, but I haven't had a chance to dabble in that yet.
To touch on what you asked though. Generally not a good idea to tap into wheel speed wires, and if its an active sensor its not even possible anyway.BUT.... some ABS modules do have digital outputs for already processed wheel speeds. Not sure on the Evo though.
Another Auto Blip Downshift question...
in G4x
Posted
Syncro H pattern Shifter
DBW
Pedal and Neutral position sensors
I recently used Adam's recommendation of using a secondary DBW target map based upon clutch and brake positions. While I can use some fine tuning on the Throttle Target Map, it works, but not as good as I hoped. I do realize its damn near impossible to accomplish this without a gear position sensor, so no shade.
My next car on G5 I have a chance to use a gear position sensor and gear box speed along with 4 wheel speeds. I'm looking for the functionality similar to OEM 370 rev matching auto blip. I'm assume its a PID Targeted RPM calculated by gear position and transmission speed. Do you think it out of the scope of what the "gear shift control" settings are intended for (more towards dogboxs/sequentials and/or upshifts).
You don't need to baby me through the settings, just wanted to make sure it was possible before I went through the hassle of wiring.