Simon

This is correct as the polarity only sets what the ECU does when it sees the request. Polarity low means that it will pull the output drive to ground when the AC request goes to on. Polarity high means that it will sit at ground until the AC request goes on and it will then let the drive go high. It looks very much like the AC request form the dash switch is not coming through to the ECU correctly. So as far as the ECU is concerned it is never seeing the request to turn the AC on. We need to confirm that the AC request on this model is still done via the CAN bus. All info we have seen indicates that all models are done via CAN. Assuming this is correct. In this case it looks like the CAN signal is different.

You will need to check all the digital inputs and make sure none of them are set to AC. This is unique to the Mini as its AC request is done through CAN. Try this first and if that fails can you email your map to [email protected]

Both done.

You are totally correct. Your work around is also what we would recommend. Thank you for the feedback.

Hi Given the clutch is engaging when you change the polarity indicates that the output is actually functioning. The issue likely lies with the AC input request. On the Mini this is expected through the CAN communications. Our test car did have the full climate control so there could be something different with the non climate equipped cars. On a long shot if you have wiring information for your exact model we might be able to spot some thing.

[email protected]

We are looking in to this. Any chance you could send a map for us to check on as well.

Done

Hi Filin Many bugs does not narrow down where we should be looking. We need much more specific information. We are aware of a number of problems many of which are already sorted in the soon to be released 4.9.3 With the knock issue is it the signal not being correct, the correction if knock is detected doesn't work, gain control doesn't work, timing doesn't change with knock retard? Can you email the two PCL files one on the working firmware and one of the knock not working?

Thanks for letting us know that you got it all sorted and the cause of the boost control issues.

Hi. Can you narrow down to what part of knock control doesn't work? We haven't seen any issues with knock in our bench and engine testing.

We have found a bug in FW 4.9.1. What happens is that the code steps through and checks things, Fuel Pressure is the thing it checks right before Wideband average. If Fuel pressure is setup in the ECU, it then skips wideband average and sets it to zero. CLL can then not work correctly in all modes as some rely on the wideband average value to work. The work around is to change the Fuel Pressure to a General Pressure and then it works fine. It is on the list to be fixed.

There is no way to run odd fire wasted spark on any of our ECU's :cry: Currently the only way would be to go with 2 ECUs and run full sequential.

PM's back on

Can you email your map through to [email protected] We will run it up on the bench and see if we can spot the cause.

Make sure you have reset the ECU error log as well as the VTS errors. With nothing connect it will not cause that error. Over current normally occurs when the motor for throttle is trying to drive the butterfly further than it can move.

05. to 0.6 mS seems a very low pw for idle. MAP: 35 kPa RPM: 1004 Fuel table number: 57.7 Inj deadtime: 1.019 No fuel trims Master fuel = 4ms (Note this is the minimum) Inj Actual pulsewidth = 1.825 ms Inj Effective pulsewidth = 0.806 ms

E throttle and the control solenoids will have to be 12 fed from a relay as they will use more current than the ECU can supply from either the 5 or 8 volt outputs.

No need to split the signal. Trigger 2 also has vvt settings. So it can do both jobs.

I assume you are running open loop boost control? If you could post you map would be good.

If factory has the supply at 5V then stick with that. For the crank sensor it is important to get the polarity correct as it will effect the triggering if it is wrong. Toyota use the polarity the same as we do so the NE- will need to be connected to the ground in the shielded trigger cable.

Couple of tweaks. Supply for the cam sensors will be better from 8V. NE- on crank should be to the sensor ground. NE+ to the trigger 1

haha true! left bank will be on left side if looking at engine from flywheel end.

http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID2000. ... y%20Curves

LH = Left hand RH= Right hand. Think of the side of the car the driver sits on. Left hand drive you are on the left side of the car.