Simon
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Posts posted by Simon
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It will do this due to the way ECU hardware is configured. The ISC will have to be wired so that when the key is turned off the power supply to the ISC is also cut off.
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Yep that will be it. You will find that if you tune off the car and the pump is still running when you unplug the boost control solenoid the pump will shut down.
The ECU is getting a back feed through the solenoid and remaining powered.
Solution is going to be to have the 12V removed from the solenoid when the key is turned off.
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It was more there to spool the turbo for launch rather than to reduce power.
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The 10 degrees you are seeing is likely to be the static timing of the engine.
On older ECUs you mentally had to add this number into your maps. So lets say the ECU is asking for 20 degrees the total timing you would see on the timing light will be 30 degrees.
 If you want 20 in total then the ECU needs to only add 10 degrees to the base of 10.
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The last run of V4 ecu's was around 5 years ago. I would say it should do an OK job the new G3s are much improved particularly in areas like cold start, air temp and altitude correction.
You can upgrade to Version 5 firmware which will give you a little but of an improvement but not a dramatic one.
This was a wire in only ECU . Only adapters I know of are diy ones. -
Is the engine temp to the ECU reading correctly?
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The wiring for the G3s is a little different than the g1-2 I can email through diagrams that will suit. They are a bit large to attach to this forum.
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The next step is to check the earths to the ECU. These are a known problem area on older Subaru models.
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The LS1 sensors are super sensitive you might want to try a bosch type.
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It should be in celsius but check in you PC link configuration as there is an option for fahrenheit.
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If its not going lean and ther is no knock then you should be fine to drive it to the shop for a full tune.
The Base maps are to suit different adaptas so the aux ins and outs are likely to be configured differently. If you have done a wire in install you will need to set these to suit your wiring.
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Any chance you could email your PCL file through to us so we can have a play on the bench.
Was any thing changed wiring wise at time of upgrade?
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If you are running the standard 3S dizzy then it is cam.
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Another area to watch is if the battery is in the boot. You will need to make sure all you earths are in very good shape.
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You will need the Plus to do Vanos.
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Spot on thanks for making my job easier
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Brad is correct. Sometimes PC Link will display an option that is yet to become available. In this case closed loop boost which is yet to be released.
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In theory on the old G1 ECUs you should be safe up to at least 16V if it goes over this voltage for an extended time then the smoke is likely to get out. To really see what the voltage is doing at the ECU you will need to measure it using a scope to catch any spikes that a normal meter might filter out.
If you disable the alternator does the ECU still show unstable voltage?
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You will need to get you hands on a Tuning Module and plug it in to see what all the inputs are doing. This will then get you heading in the right direction. MAP should read 100ish at key on but engine not running. TPS should span from 10 to 100.
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The G1 LinkPlus doesn't have a PWM controlled output so it will not be able to drive this particular unit.
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When you have entered the changed number you must hit the "ENTER" key this then locks in the number. Until the power is cycled. The store will lock it in for good or until you manually change it.
Simon
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This should help you along.
Any reason for removing the vanos? The LinkPLus G3 can run this with out a problem.
Simon
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Thing to check here will be the set up of the ECU hold power. That the DI and Aux out are still configured correctly.
Simon
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In your case I suspect it might be noise effecting the ribbon cable.
For the G3's no need for any adapter as they are fitted with a USB port so all you need is a USB A-B cable.
G3 Aux1 over volt
in Link G2 G3
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This is an indication that the AN1 input has been pulled to 5 volts. Sensor might have gone short circuit. Or what is more likely the input might have lost contact and floated high. I would check sensor and any connections between ECU and sensor.