CodySoFine

Got online with @CodySoFine last night and got it to idle fairly stable.  His IACV seems to bypass a bit more in the fully closed position than excpected, but ultimately turning on the closed loop idle, changing the base position table down quite a bit, and then enabling idle ignition control was able to get the idle pretty stable and the AFR to act pretty stable around idle.

@jdniss
Yes in my picture the crank is marked at TDC or 0 degrees. You use that mark to time the top and bottom ends together. When timing the engine with a timing light the light illuminates the second hash mark from the right so 15 degrees.

I suppose the difference in trigger could be explained by the different trigger disc you're running versus the OEM 360 tooth oem CAS.  Timing looks correct as far as I can tell unless the crank pulley is somehow off (running a long screwdriver down the #1 plug hole would sort of verify it appears to reach peak height at the same time as the TDC mark).    If it's running pretty well or as good as it can at the trigger settings you have, then it may just be a tuning issue.  Hard to say over the internet, but I would try some big swings on your ignition timing and fueling in the ecu to see if it's happier one way or the other to see if the tune is just way out to lunch.  It's sometimes possible that you're so rich that you get misfire which would register lean on a wideband and could be causing false AFR readings as well. Engines will run on a pretty wide range of AFR so for testing purposes you can get pretty far out before the engine won't run any more.  I am assuming tech support had you go through and click test all injectors and coils already.
If you need help doing this remotely, I would be available most evenings for a brief session to try somethings.  (Pacific standard time zone)

Yes. My regulator has a gauge on it and I can visually see the pressure is not fluctuating.
 
@jdniss
I had some issues with that as well but I bought a new O2 sensor for my wideband and my numbers seem to be much more consistent. It's off by maybe .2-.5 lambda but certainly nothing I'm actively concerned about or attributing to the cause of my issues.
One thing I do find suspicious is the timing table. I've watched videos of other people setting up links on their SR20s and in the trigger timing table their offset is -40 to -100 to get the timing marks in the correct spot but I had to give my car +20 degrees to get it on the right mark. This is a brand new motor and I've verified my cams are timing correctly about 6 times in addition to the machine shop verifying it so I know my motor is timed correctly but I'm not sure why my offset is so wildly different to other peoples. This could have something to do with it but I'm not sure. I'll recheck timing for the 7th time and report back if I figure anything out.

Im not sure if the lambda is reflecting reality in that log.  Assuming it is an AEM gauge, are you seeing similar lambda displayed on the gauge as shown in PC Link?
In the area it goes lean the injector PW doesnt change and neither does any of the metrics that represent air flow so it doesnt appear to be caused by the ECU.  Perhaps fuel pressure or something.  
Assuming the lambda is correct then it appears it needs less fuel for most of the log.
The high idle is probably due to the idle base position being too high.  Possibly the throttle is too far open if reducing the base position cant bring the idle down to an acceptable level.