Howard Coleman
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Posts posted by Howard Coleman
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i raised WG duty cycle yesterday and found no change in my boost. i did the test and heard no cycling from the MAC valve. i checked wiring and that is not the problem. it would seem to be in my sttings. i have the solenoid wired thru Aux 1. it worked with my V88 using the same harness. it is also tagged at GP output 1.
perhaps it is appropriate that it is an orange wire with a black stripe... being Halloween coming shortly.
i attach my map and hope you find something. i can make do with a manual boost controller for the Texas Mile if necessary.
thanks
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really, really, happy this morning. after pasteing up a big 5 V digital gauge i started removing my 6 digital pressure sensors as well as my TPS. the TPS had me holding my breath as they are almost impossible to source. it, of course, came down to the last sensor and bingo... a solid 4.97 V!
when i bought my V88 in 2013 i wanted to instrument everything and bought Honeywell pressure sensors. correctly or not, i am convinced of the quality of HON products. eventually AEM entered the sensor market with "similar" looking sensors and i ended up over the years aquiring a few.
it was an AEM sensor that failed. i had another AEM sensor lying around and swapped it in... it also was a fail. i swapped in a HON sensor and am now back to a solid 4.97 V reading.
it is possible that the two AEM sensors were compromised from being exposed to the exhaust as they were reading exhaust manifold pressure. i do have an FFE module between the sensor and pressure line... but perhaps tough duty.
i do have an AEM pressure sensor reading my fuel pressure.
Thank You Link and Thank You Adam for not only the fix but also for alerting me to the 5v Out which i can place in my toolbox.
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i didn't know there was a 5 V out available. thank you so much Adam. i am on it.
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i pressured up the map sensor to 15 psi and it did not respond other than cycling quickly within a range of around 10 or so psi in the negative range. i then swapped in two other Honeywell pressure sensors and they also were spinning through numbers like a slot machine. all negative. the ECU was showing 302 F.
another item which i have neglected to mention is the ECT is similarly fast cycling between zero and around 150 F.
if my Extreme has an internal issue is there any possibility of getting another. i have to load up for the 1300 mile trip to the Texas Mile Oct 26. the next event is April 2022.
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thanks for the additional settings help Adam.
after not starting i examined all the 5 volt systems/sensors etc and found they were O K. i swapped in an earlier Map added updated fuel settings and did a nice power run. all was well. i did some fuel table tuning and returned to the car for another run 3 hours later. no start. i pulled the plugs and they were pretty dry.
this morning i took a close look at the failed start log from yesterday.
key on no crank MGP shows minus 13.5. cranking MGP oscillates between minus 13.4 and 4 or 5 positive psi??? i haven't spent a lot of time observing cranking MGP but did go back to an earlier log and it shows about zero MGP to minus half of a psi. way different.
of course fuel pressure reacts to these probably readings but here there is also something awry.
fuel pressure, during the 8 second no start crank topped out at 24-21 psi and had spikes down to 7-8 psi. i recently reset fuel pressure from 3 BAR to 4 BAR... around 57.
differential fuel pressure followed loosely fuel pressure and showed a range of 34 to 12 psi. of course it should have been fairly flatline around 57.
i note that there seems to be a correlation to the bad logs with the ECU temp as it showed normal temps on my good run and 302 on my bad crank.
i have, since, downloaded the newer update which may change the ecu temp reading but perhaps the fact that on good runs the temp is normal and bad it is pegged may help towards a solution.
i have just posted on Google Drive an earlier normal crank log along with the no start bad crank from yesterday.
good crank example: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12KJUTcrrNHz6bvmNL0-TgytNpKNZf81U/view?usp=sharing
bad crank yesterday: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vULqn2L7pWxJILvzz74eT8HnFH97D5Eb/view?usp=sharing
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all was well but all is not well (again) now. seems to be the same problem. thanks for your persistance.
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done
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no need to respond. i loaded an earlier map and all is well. i would have done that immediately but instead did a compare which showed no difference.
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i hopefully did this properly last night but since i have no answer re my problem i revisited it just now.
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all the 5 volt readings checked out. by adding fuel i was able to get it started and it wanted to go lean. whereas it ran perfectly the day before, i am finding the fuel settings are too low. i am getting errors. a "connection" error 1019 "Link not responding correctly" the ecu today, as you will see in the log, is showing a normal temperature rather than the 302. my fuel pressure is normal yet my fuel settings are way higher just to make it run. it is currently not driveable. i do think there is something wrong with the ecu as the wiring checks out and a "compare" shows no differences between a map that worked well and the current map which does not. i am truly lost here.
i attach;
October 11 map and log. both worked well
map https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kmF9dCEJZLfcwG2R49FYXuKfD0CMLFDA/view?usp=sharing
log https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTbRuhxz9lzk3oAzpnHL1EZyWPs77SlT/view?usp=sharing
Oct 13 map and log. problems
map https://drive.google.com/file/d/1h0rRqCzdyWijc74Dbi8ICki0dxU0Pat8/view?usp=sharing
log https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hE_zn3NLPgW3i-0pQ0YMOoVZiAZKnt-R/view?usp=sharing
thanks for any help.
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after running perfectly yesterday, my engine wouldn't start today. (G4X Extreme)
i logged four attempts and the primary feature is that the active cell while cranking is in the NE most corner of my tables... minus 14 MGP.
i did a compare between yesterday and today's maps and found no settings difference.
during the compare i did notice one difference... my ECU temperature shows 302 F. a straight line on all 4 cranking logs from today.
i am exactly two weeks from loading up for the Texas Mile effort. new engine, new trans and easily 6 months of prep work for 200 mph.
when i discovered the readings i examined the ECU for any sign of 300 F and found none. i turned on the ignition waited a bit and the case remained cool to the touch.
yesterday's ECU temps were ambient... 70/80 F
any help greatly appreciated.
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am i correct that the split timing numbers reported in a log are not the actual timing but just reflect the split settings?
for example:
i am at 8.2 lead and my split shows minus 11 on the log. my actual split timing event at this point would be 8.2 minus 11 or minus 2.8.
please confirm. thank you
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either the individual who constructed this video is clueless with regard to thermocouples or he has purposely created a fraud.
when testing intake AIR temperature with a thermocouple you use an AIR thermocouple. he did not, and in addition, he used a closed tip sensor.
both "The Sensor Connection" and "EGT Technologies" offers such an open tip AIR thermocouple. it is also worthwhile to mention that even EGT thermocouples are open tip.
The Sensor Connection states they provide data points every 250 ms at plus or minus .4 of one % accuracy.
i just checked my most recent log and it shows 8 data points in one second. in the one second the temperature out of my turbo before the intercooler rose from 213.8 to 250.2. the IAT into my motor rose from 141.4 to 148.3.
other than the video, i have yet to see a log from any thermistor that wasn't slow and range bound. i remain open in this regard. in the meantime i will be quite happy with my thermocouples.
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thank you re the knock system aspects.
my connectivity is excellent so i won't be needing the uprated cable.
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i was visiting with Victory Motorsports Loganville, Ga today and expect to be doing some tunng with them. Edwin is a Link guy and we were attempting to discern why my knock readings with my V88 over 8 years typically were around 25/30 tops while they are 55/65 with my G4X Extreme. same 2 Bosch (Mazda RX8 P/N) sensors on my Third Gen FD RX7. same gain setting. i have added as much as 28% ethanol to 93 octane. i run 1000 CC of meth as AI (same as before)... i even did a 60/40 meth/water combo, then tried Boostane. this currently is all at modest boost.. 15/16 with an EFR9180
zero change in the knock readings. i did a comp test on my motor and it is 100%.
it appears the only changes in the G4X map are i switched to the actual knock cps (3500). the V88 was set at 5500 which was the closest i could get to 3500. gain was the same. i reset the G4X to 5500 and came up with the same 55/65 readings.
one difference is i was logging at around 6 per second with the V88 and it appears i am around 16/S with the G4X. i doubt this is a factor since i have over 100 V88 logs and over 50 G4X logs... both consistantly different.
any help on this appreciated...
Edwin did ask me about my USB cable. he showed me a cable that had two "filters." i was not aware of such a cable. is this new?
he said that the G4X is so sensitive that it can pick up background noise and so the new cable. i checked the Link site and did not see such a cable.
would i benefit from it and is it available, P/N.
thanks
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Math Block
in G4x
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Math Block
in G4x
like many i am very excited about the possibilities of Math Block.
i started out with a couple of simple items...
Temp out of the turbo compressor before the intercooler minus Temp within my intake manifold.
GP Temp 1 minus GP Temp 2
a-b
Front Rotor EGT minus Rear Rotor EGT
a-b
i do get logged numbers but they aren't accurate for either.
282 F as per logged GP Temp 1, 113.7 F as per logged GP Temp 2 should generate 168.3.
the Math Block says 93.5 F
i have searched the Forum and re-read the Help Section.
my formula is a-b
a being GP Temp 1
b being GP Temp 2
one decimal point.
thanks for your help
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did the icewater and boiling water thing, noted AN V #s. re-calibrated to those and i feel i am in good shape w re to accuracy.
thanks
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sorry to have detoured my issue with the .02 V non-issue. it appears to me i still have a problem.
i currently use four K thermocouples. if i input the standard calibration (0 = 32 F, 5 = 2282 F) and just turn the key on and log the temp and the An V i get temp readings right at 100F and .17 V. the actual temp is 63F and the V should be less than half the .17.
after discussing this w EGT Techology, with whom i have dealt for 20 years, they suggested i disconnect a couple of the amp outputs from the ECU and measure the voltage.
the amp output was such that it was to the F degree of the actual ambient temp. at the same time i logged the output from the two connected (to the ECU) amps which read .17 or about 100F.
i am currently testing very high level intercoolers and it is important to have solid data. by reducing the calibration for 0 V by 40 F i can match ambient in my shop but really have no idea what might happen in other parts of the scale.
might there be something i have done to create this error, is it fixable? or can i just change the calibration.
thank you
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thanks for that.
wastegate
in G4x
Posted
will check to see if an incorrect Deutsch connector was paired to the boost solenoid. it is weird though as the signal wire from the connector in use is orange/black which is Aux 1. my solenoid worked properly last year. solution is now in sight.
thanks.