Matt Dunn

Yes by using a virtual aux option to switch off traction control would be a benefit in my situation too.

Could be an option. I already have a switch on the steering wheel as traction disable, so I suppose I could hook an auxillary output to it as well, and switch it off gear position or speed.

Hi all, Looking for a way to disable traction control in my race car in 1st gear. The car has a very high first gear and does not come on boost untill about 4400 rpm, which means that it comes on boost at about 50kmh. This requires a reasonable amount of wheelspin to get it off the line, and I had it sussed pretty well as the car is RWD. I recently added the software update to run full traction control, and it seems to work pretty well, but I need to manually turn it off for the start of each race and then back on again one off the start line. In the settings the maximum speed lockout is 25kmh, which is too slow, and I have a slip threshold table with gear on one axis, but the maximum slip allowed is 50% which is not enough. Is there any other way that I can disable it in 1st gear?

Hi there, I run the closed loop boost control from the Link G4+ Storm. I also run a adjustable boost switch on the dash to change between settings. All this works fine and has no issues. I have the Boost Target Table currently with Boost Adjust on one axis and Wheel slip % on the other axis and don't want to change them unless I have to, as it works well on the track. What I am wanting to achive is to raise the boost by 1 - 2 psi while in 4th gear only. I see there is a Boost Gear Target Trim Tabel which looks like it will do what I want. "This gear base target trim table adds or subtracts an offset from the value in the boost target table based on gear position" My question is what is the Offset? is that adding a percentage to the boost target or adding a number to the boost target? If the boost target is normally 220kpa and I want the target to be 240kpa in 4th gear, what number do I enter in the gear table? 20 for an extra 20kpa or 9.1 for an extra 9.1% to get 240kpa? I presume one of those is the correct answer or am I on the wrong track? Any other downsides to working it this way? Matt

What stops the power going in Aux 8 and back out of the ECU power feed to the acc relay?

I can see where the problem is as it took me ages to find the reason when my car did the same. While you switch the ignition switch off, the power flows through the boost solenoid into the AUX8 on the ecu, back out of the +14V in terminal of the ecu and backwards into the ignition relay. As you have turned off the power to the ignition relay, what was the power terminal is now earth and power flows backwards through the relay windings keeping the relay on.  One solution is fit a diode inline with the power to the ECU, but that can cause low voltage issues under cranking, or change the feed to the ignition relay so it is switched from the same feed that switches the main relay, not the output from it.. If that is a diagram supplied by link, then they have it wrong as that does not work. Â

I have had a play at the track and ended up going back to a single launch RPM, and using a 4D ign map with slip on one axis to help as well. I found that I could get it to feel like it was taking off really well, but will only be able to tell in a proper race situation if it is any good against other cars off the line. I ended up with a RPM of 4500, but If I tried 4600 all I got was wheelspin, and if I tried 4400 it would bog down and I would need to dip the clutch. Just hoping for more consistancy, and I am 2wd and race against mostly 4wd's, when I got a good start I could match them off the line, but would only get a good start 1/2 the time as it was very sensitive on launch rpm. I take it that 100rpm is the minimum amount of change allowed as it would not let me enter 4450 or 4550. Matt  Â

Ok so I think I have figured out how most of it works, but I dont understand how to work out the RPM for the Launch RPM tables? I would rather work it out and have it close rather then alter it at the track rather than start from scratch at the track. The help file says So as an example, to find the RPM value for 0% slip at 25 kph, assuming the digital input has a calibration number of 260, and the un-normalised gear ratio is 169.3:  0% slip RPM = (Speed x Cal x Ratio) / 360 = (25 x 260 x 169.3) / 360 = 1100450 / 360 = 3057 RPM So the calibration number will be the calibration number for the driven wheels? and the normalised gear ratio, is that the gearbox ratio in 1st? or the gear and diff ratio's? The speed sensor is driven from the back of the gearbox, not the actual wheels, does that make a difference? I am unsure what the normalised gear ratio is? 1st gear is 2.3 and diff is 4.3.  Cal number is 275 for rear wheel speed   Â

Have a G4+ Storm and plan on trying to use the 2D launch RPM. Â Â The Launch RPM activation table spans from 0 to 60 kmh. Is this adjustable as would really like to span it up a bit more to 70 or 80 kmh.?? When I right click it the axis setup is not highlighted and cannot be changed? Â

Thanks, but the question is if I unplug the ECT sensor and then plug it back in while the car is running, will it stay in limp home strategy even when reconnected, and need the Laptop connected to clear it, or will it run as normal again as soon as the sensor is reconnected? I know the fault will stay in the ecu but does it actually affect the cars running if it is a stored fault rather than a currently active fault?

We have a Link G4+ Extreme and have a couple of questions. We have had the car apart and while assembling it it was run with some sensors unplugged, IAT, Oil temp etc. Later when fully back together we had running problems.witn the engine. When we connected PC link there were fault codes for saying something like ANV 1 at 5V or similar. I cleared them and they all went away and did not come back. Question 1. I thought that fault codes like that would self clear when the fault was rectified, i.e when the sensor was reconnected it would go away by itself. Does this not happen? Question 2 Will the fault codes being in there cause running issues? One of them may have been the main ECT sensor, so will it affect the running? The car seemed to run better by just clearing the codes, or do we still need to look further for another issue?

I think that I can see what he may be referring to, the Runtimes Value List. Beside Injection, Ignition Fuel pump etc they all say off. That will be because the engine is not running. I think you will find that the ones that need to be on will switch on when the engine starts. Â Â

Looks like the CANXPAN is the part that I am after, but unsure on the cant use with the CUSB tuning cable. So the question is can the CANXPAN be use as an extension of the CUSB Â lead?

and book,

I have a linkplus ECU, the sub board has no details on it. I also have a book but am not sure if the book is correct for the ECU. I have attached a picture of the board and the book. Book appears to be for a 3TGTE which is the old 8 plug 4 cylinder toyota motor. Am I correct in asuming it will run any 4 cylinder that has a distrubitor with a  reluctor and  4 teeth? but will only run single coil not multi coil? Thanks

Yeah that would do the job probably, But i was thinking of one that has the Link round plug on it  so the std tuning cable can still be used, as I download from a few cars and would be good to still have the same cable from all.

Not sure if you already do one or not but here is a suggestion. Most of the cars I work on have the ECU tucked away under the dash or the tuning port is a pain to get to, and I dont like leaving race cars with cables floating around in them, so what I would like is a cable that connect to the tuning port and on the other end is the same connector but with a panel mount connector on it. That way when we need to download data we can still use the standard tuning cable, but instead of having to plug it in under the dash, it can be connected to a plug mounted into the dash.

I see in the G4+ PCLink help file it says "File importer to allow PCL files from older G4 ECU's to be imported into G4+ ECU's" How is this achieved. I am looking at changing from G4 to G4+ but would like to load my PCL file into it and have a play first. Cant find any instructions in PCLINK and couldn't find any obvious way of doing it? Â Â

I have an AIM dash currently running on serial and it works well. The ECU has had the CAN upgrade and so are now looking to get it sorted so we don't have to keep unplugging the dash to download data from the ECU. I have the two can wires from the ECU and the two from the dash, is there a problem hooking up the CAN lines without disconnecting the serial wires? Can I have them both connected but just select to run off CAN instead of the serial?   Â

Ok so slip is not logged, both both front and rear wheel speed sensors are, not sure why I could only get one earlier? Anyway, is there a way that PCLINK can show slip in the Log Analysis? Â Can is work it out from the logged data, or do you just have to overlay the two yourself?

Your suggestion was good but was not what I was trying to achieve, as I would like it to start logging on the warmup lap of a race, but continue logging while stationary to record the RPM's etc that the car was at when the cluch was released. I did get it to work very well and thought I would post it on here for others to see. Logging is set to switch on from virtual output 1 The virtual output is set condition 1 Wheel speed > 30kmh Condition 2 Virtual output 2 =on condition 3 RPM> 300 And switch logic to (1 or 2) and 3 This starts logging at 30kmh and keeps the logging going as long as the car is running no matter of the wheel speed.

Hi have some questions on data logging. In PC LInk 4.7.1.804 help I find 'The parameters logged by ECU Logging are fixed and can not be changed.  Approximately 100 of the most important parameters have been selected for logging.'  My ECU runs firmware 4.7.1 I believe, and I am trying to log front and rear wheel speed, or wheel slip % to the onboard logging, but it seems to only log one wheel speed.  Is this the way it should be, and will updating the firmware help with what I want to do.  Also does the later firmware still only log 10 logs, then stop, or will it re-write over the oldest log if you don't delete the logs? Â

 Ok yes it does have extra dip switches on the mainboard,  What do they do and what should I set them to?  Also seem to be having a trigger problem with it in the car, and have tried another ECU with a SUB24New sub board, What is the difference in signal expected between the 1GGZE sub board and the Sub24New, as I believe both the types of distrubitor, 1GGZE and the 1GGE have the same signals, one 24 Tooth wheel with a sensor and one one tooth wheel with a sensor each side, to give 3 signals, so would be 24 +1+1on both? The SUB24New one I borrowed makes it almost run, but when it stalls, we get continous spark from the coil until the fuel pump relay clicks out? I think this may have been a common problem with trigger wiring but I dont remember the cause?    Â

 Have been looking through some of the forums but have not found much. I have a G4 Storm and have fitted a wheel speed sensors to a front and a rear wheel, so i have a driven and a non driven wheel. From this I can get %slip reading. Can I use a 4D ignition table with slip on one axis to drop ingition timing out when slip occours as a form of traction control? What is the disadvantage or down side to doing this? The is an a maximum advance limit in the ignition main settings, but is there any minimum advance to stop far to retarded timimg? Is there a boost overlay table that can have have slip on one axis to do a similar thing with boost to help prevent wheelspin? asI cant seem to change any of the axis on the boost table apart from the boost target table which I have as a dash mounted pot already.? Thanks Matt

 I have a toyota 6 cylinder 1GGZE running on a LEM v5. It had the 1GGZE sub board in it and appears it will work fine when testing,  but what I am finding is that when the power is first applied to the ECU that driver IG3 is held on, meaning that there is coil current flowing all the time, which will heat up the coil and igniter. As soon as the trigger inputs are recieved it switches back to normal pulsing the coil at what apperas to be the right rate, and will function fine until the next power off/ on cycle. I have not had the engine running yet as still deciding on if we will run it wasted spark or single coil with dist. It is something in the way it is setup? or is it just one of those random things to put up with?