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Jurgen Biggelaar

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Posts posted by Jurgen Biggelaar

  1. Hi Cameron.

    That is clearly going over the limit, but is because the DC is at 100%.  It turns out you are kind of correct but not quite.  Fuel limiting will not operate at 100% DC, but nor should 100% DC EVER be reached by your injectors.

    You have the master fuel number set to 17ms and the highest load in your fuel table only sees early 50's in their DC.  You are loosing a lot of resolution this way, and would suggest you use a lower master fuel number and higher DC numbers in the fuel table.

    Max loads would be better at 80-90% DC leaving some room for trims to add in fuel etc.  The reason you show 100+% DC, is really showing you have injectors that are too small for the job.  Either get bigger injectors, or raise the fuel pressure may suffice.

    Jurgen

  2. Hi Zane.

    Weird.  Not sure what that could be.  It sounds either like there is something not quite right with that boost control (don't know what type you have or how it's programmed), or something mechanical.  When I say mechanical... Maybe you told your engine builder about your boost target and they have built it with lower compression in preperation, which may screw with the set up of the boost controller that worked fine on the 'higher compression' motor???

    Just trying to give ideas here really.  If you are daring enough, you could pop the pipe off the wastegate and see if it goes over 15PSI, just don't stick it through the roof!  ;)  Although the Link's MAP limit is set to about 17PSI, the other thing would be to raise the limit on that to see if it is the ECU limiting or something else.

    Let us know how you get on.

     

    Jurgen

  3. Hi Martin.

    The LS2 TB is always a good choice if you want a mouth bigger than Mc Jaggers! :)  And as for the pedal assembly, anything that is 0v-5v x 2 with opposing outputs (0=5 and 5=0 on the outputs) you'll be sweet. 

    I have PM'd you so get back to me soon.

     

     

    Jurgen

  4. Hi Ben.

    Have you tried leaning or richening the warmup number at all.  There is no other setting to account for this, and the standard temp sender should work OK.  Can you confirm correct operation of your existing sensor? 

    For your info... The v14 has removed all of the warmup fueling after 70degC.

    Jurgen

  5. Hi Ryan.

    40% of 440cc is 176cc, so that would be roughly the same as 89% of say 200cc injectors.  

    If the ECU is programmed to use 89% injector capacity for example, then you change your injector size without editing the map as you have tried to do, you will have a very different result in the amount of fuel being delivered.  What you have done without knowing it, is adjust things that probably should have been adjusted, to probably about the right place. 

    Always check things off against AFR, and keep an eye on ECT and IAT temps when you are playing with this stuff... If you don't have anyway to detect knock, or see AFR, I strongly suggest you don't do a budget road tune on it, and take it to a pro to be sure things aren't going to screw with you.

    The chipped OEM ECU was programmed to accept the 440cc injectors, unlike the Link before you did some adjusting, therefore it worked correctly.

     

    Jurgen

     

     

  6. Hi Mike.

    Brian is right, you will not get a huge screen size out of that, however it's not to say it won't work.  We certainly do not recommend it, however the slower processor will still allow things to work, it will just be really sluggish.  Personally I think you will just get frustrated with it in the end.  At the risk of seeing you spend lots of money... Go with the recommended.

    Jurgen

  7. Hi Juan.

    I don't understand what you are asking.  I am guessing you cannot make AC work correctly.  Make sure AUX driving pump is selected as 'AirCon Clutch', and the DI for the AC button is set to 'Air Con Request'. 

    Pressing F12 and selecting the 'Digital' and 'Auxiliary' tabs will show you the state of these functions... If they are 'ON' or 'OFF'.  I think DI3 = AC Request and IGN6 = AC Clutch, and INJ5 = AC Fan.

    If this doesn't work, or I do not understand your question, just try us again, and explain with a little more detail.  Polarity, ON levels and pullups can sometimes be confusing if you are not used to it.  If you send your map (.pcl file), I can have a look for you.

    Jurgen

  8. Hi Ralf.

    After some market research, we discovered that roughly only 1% of the sales made on the original Xtreme were using E-Throttle function, this allowed us to remove these functions (which are quite costly) and offer them in an external module for those that needed it, and make the unit a lot cheaper for everyone else.  ;)

    Jurgen

  9. Hi Amvegeta.

    I would be inclined to do what Brett suggests.  If you are tuned off MAP and not using the MAF sensor, this can be disconnected and used as a spare wire or two in the harness already going to your ECU plug.  The ground should be a 'signal' type ground from the ECU, or common it with something like the TPS ground (same thing).

    If you are lucky enough to have the revision 1.1 circuit board, this has AN Temp 3 as a common with the expansion plug and B136-19.  This way you can take the pin from the MAF position in the harness plug and put it in to B136-19.  If not, you will still need the expansion cable.

    Jurgen

     

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