Jump to content

Rich RDE

Members
  • Posts

    150
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Posts posted by Rich RDE

  1. Hello,

    I recently purchased the G4+ ECU for my MR2.  I currently have a boost controller and I would like to retire it in favor of the boost control feature in the G4+ ECU.  From reading through the various postings on the forum I gathered that on a 2-wire, 3-port solenoid I would need to connect one wire to switched 12V and the other to the AUX-out port on the ECU.  Reading through the manual for the ECU I see that there's AUX3 and it's labeled "Wastegate Solenoid" so I would like to confirm that is the port to connect the other wire on the boost solenoid to.

    My existing boost controller has three modes, off, low, high and I would like to mimic those modes.  I'm thinking that I would need to wire in two separate switches, one to turn on and off the boost solenoid and the other to control low/high mode. Wiring for the on/of switch is pretty straight forward but I'm not so sure about the low/high switch.  Again from reading through the forum postings I saw a posting where the recommendation for low/high control is to wire the output pin on the switch to one of the DI ports on the XS wiring harness. So a couple of questions with that approach:

    1. What voltage should the input to the DI port be, 5VDC or 12VDC?

    2. Programming of the ECU to associate the DI port for how/high mode, not sure where I would start...help!

    Hi Chunkymunkey,

    You can set this up a few different ways. The DI port can be wired as a 12v input to be on and 0v as off. You can set this up inverse of this as well. However you like. This is the easiest way of going about it.

    Once you have it setup you can check functionality in the Run Time table and see if your digital input is working correctly.

    Sincerely,

    Rich

  2. Hey guys,

    I'm transferring my RB25DET and Link G4+ PnP from one Nissan Skyline R33 coupe to a non-turbo R33 sedan, and I'm wondering if I will need a touch up on the tune?

    I'm also planning on changing injectors to larger ones, so if it needs a touch up I may as well put them in and then get the car retuned.

    Cheers, Steven. 

    Hi Steven,

    You will most definitely need to get the calibration touched up to suit the non turbo car as it will be moving a lot less air everywhere most likely. With the bigger injectors it is always recommended to log and double check everything is proper. 

    So yes a retune is in the works here.

    Sincerely,

    Rich

  3. Tnf, both these sensors should work fine  spliced directly to link AN volt input without any extra pull-up. The fact that the gauge uses a pull up to 3.6v does not matter you will just not be taking advantage of the full 5v resolution.

    this type of connection is done all the time for sharing gauges and piggy back ecu installs.

    I thought the same thing....

  4. Hi RH9,

    Can you send your pcl file to me [email protected]. I think you may have some sort of threshold in the antilag setup. But your trigger for this engine is multi tooth missing. Should be 36 missing 2 teeth. for your trig one setup. But I do not think that is the issue. As it would not really rev very well if it was a trigger issue.

    Let me know and I will help as best as I can.

    Sincerely,

    Rich

  5. Hi Pitbull,

    What link system are you running? There are many ways to hook this up and it just depends on how well you want to control it. You will most definitely hook the positive to the Hi-imp side of the injector to +12v and the other side to an aux OP driver to control this with a table that you build. The fail safe side of this unit is very useful as well. When setting up in your Link. You have options here to allow you to send signal to the Link that can be configured for a ign./fuel cut type safety incase of X,Y, and Z.

    I hope this was useful?

    Cheers

  6. Hi,

    There is a company near you (Etuner EMS). I am sure there is multiple tuners on here that can help you out with a base. But it is always recommended to go and get a complete tune done by someone knowing how to do so in your area. I can help you get started and build a pcl. that will get it running. Going to need all the details ( cam specs, injector type, E85 content analyzer?, map sensor, wideband type?, ignition system, engine size/ comp. and so forth). If you could pop me an email at tunedbyrde.com I can get you a working base.

    Cheers,

    Rich

  7. Currently talking with a good friend of mine from DOC Race and really interested in producing a PNP kit using a Extreme system and a GDI driver. 

    Any thoughts about this? Our biggest issue is getting the CAN system to communicate properly and run all the dash. 

  8. Yes I was wondering about being able to tell the ecu in regarding to fuel flow. More or less if you use a FPR that is rising rate on a boosted application. So the offset change in relation to voltage and pressure? 

    Sorry sometimes I can confuse myself. If we can do this what table allocation do I want to use?

  9. Would love to see some offset vs volts vs map. Or Fuel flow rate  vs Voltage for offset so we can have a bit better control. Is this something we can do? For multi model this would be awesome to have as well. The 3D maps for some of the fuel equation stuff for offsets would be phenomenal.

    Cheers! Love this section

  10. Hi it is all standard stuff, the problem I have is that it ran fine (without melting a piston) before the new ecu install at higher boost levels, I can upload a log but it is only running 70kpa 10ish psi boost and is demanding way to much fuel already. I can keep adding fuel into the table and it does help but looking at logs the duty cycle is to high and I would like to sort this now before I spend to much time tuning it

     Did it melt a piston before or after the new ECU? I am guessing it was do to the same issue? If you can please log the fuel pressure or hookup a gauge we will better know if it is not that. You may have something blocking the fuel path as well. These stock Evo 5 injectors then? Just trying to help. You need to make sure that the pressure is rising 1 psi for every 1 pound of boost. On the Evo's a good rule of thumb is to take the vacuum source to the stock FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and hook it up directly to the manifold, instead of the electronic fuel pressure solenoid.

  11. Hi there. It seems as though you might want to check your fuel pressure at higher boost levels. I assume you are loosing fuel pressure and trying to compensate for more fuel in the VE Table. I have actually experienced this self. You first think that you just need more fuel. It is very clear in the VE table this is what is happening. Please feel free to message me.

    What fuel pump do you have? Injectors? Hope this was helpful. This is most certainly related to fuel delivery. Ch

  12. So the other day I tuned a 1jz Vvti engine with trigger offset of 207 to match 10 degrees on the crank. I have another customer with a 2jz engine non vvti on Same series ECU. Multi 12 tooth and cam pulse X1. With a factory offset of -6 the car will not fire and seems to be 180 out firing on the exhaust stroke. Car is running GM LS coil packs. Is the offset correct? Is there something different about the base offset. I have tried a few different combos. Here is a trigger capture. I do believe it is correct firing order as well. Harness was built by another company.

    TRIG sync.jpg

  13. Setup the Evo 8 knock control running factory knock sensor st 6hz narrow and I don't think it's monitoring anything at all. I could have configured a channel improperly? I've setup the knock before. But this paticular ECU has been acting funny. Any thoughts?

×
×
  • Create New...