Nettlez
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Posts posted by Nettlez
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Ah I see, just had a look and the trigger wheel does look completely different. I will use the Hall one. How can I tell which pin is the signal wire and what not on the hall Sensor? Am I right in thinking it needs 8v supply?
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So after about a year unfortunately my BMW m50b28nv engine has blown up so I'm looking at just dropping a m50b25tu engine it it this time and getting mapped to suit.
So my question is I believe the tu engine has a Hall effect cam Sensor rather than the vr type Sensor my non vanos engine had, so can I still use this older style vr Sensor with the newer engine? Or is this bad practice and should I re wire to suit the newer Hall effect Sensor?
Also it would be handy if anyone knew the base timing offset for the tu engine?
Thanks
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My tuner thinks I won't see much gain :-( e85 is hard to get a hold of as far as I know, plus there's the twice as much issue. Think the best option is to forge it
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it worked a treat, thanks
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sounds good, keep us posted on how you get on, would be great to have both
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oh right, so basically its nothing to worry about then? I was going to be getting either another pump or regulator as I was thinking I may have brought fakes
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Thanks for that I will give it a try, silly mistake
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It doesnt seem to be working, have started a new thread for the problem, thanks
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Ah ok i understand, mine seems to vary by 24kpa at worst, whats a realistic figure it should stay within? 5kpa?
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I have added a diff oil temp sensor after having some issues with oil leaking from the vent in my diff which is now rebuilt. I have wired it to an temp 3 but its just constantly showing 21 degrees and never moves. I have been for a drive then check the resistance at the sensor and it read 308 ohms, according to the scale which came with the sensor that should mean around 40-50 degrees. I have checked my wiring and it seems to be ok so im unsure what i have done wrong, guessing its something to do with the setup.thermistors arent polarity sensertive are they? I have attached my map and a log. Below is a link to the sensor i have brought. Thanks
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125
rolling launch added - fan adjusted - diff oil added - fan adjusted.pclr
It wont let me add the log with the map up?
now the logs are corrupt
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My tuner said that I had a problem with my fuel pressure when he mapped the car, he said my fuel pressure wasn't rising at the same rate as my boost pressure. So Im just looking at a log so I understand it so I know when I might have fixed it. He put a 4d fuel trim table in to compensate for it for now. So my question is how do i work out what my fuel pressure should be? Im guessing its some maths to do with MAP BAP MGP? Thanks
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I have brought this one as it was in the uk and included the table
http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125
just took it for a quick spin just out the estate and back but it never moved of 21degrees, will take it for a decent fun later and see if it warms up
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Nice one thanks very much
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Right ok but how do I know what the scale is of the one I buy? Ideally I want one with an 1/8npt thread as there's all ready an adapter I can just buy to convert to the thread in my diff plug.
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I'm a looking to monitor my diff oil temps as I have been having a problem with it leaking oil out the vent tube. My plan is to put a sensor in where the bottom drain plug goes using an adaptor. What sensors are there that I could use to do this that will work straight away with the link g4+? Rather than using a thermocouple and amplifier. Would the one below work plug and play? Thanks
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What is he difference between engine coolant temp and cylinder head temp? I currently have my ect from a sensor that goes in the cylinder head, is this right or should the ect be one that comes from a temp sensor in the radiator? Just wondered as I have my fans set up off my ect which comes off the cylinder head but I have been told I should have them off a switch in the radiator instead? But I was thinking I could just out a temp sensor in there and still have them controlled off the Ecu. Thanks
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I currently have en e30 turbo running 440bhp 480ftlb but it's knock limited at the moment. I have been looking into water meth kits seeing as I am knock limited due to compression but wondered what sort of gains would be realistic from water meth? Is it worth it? I have been looking at the aquamist kit as is seems good quality and read about a turbo s54 that gained 180whp with it running meth due to the engine still being really high compression so it got me thinking I might see good gains from meth, maybe 50bhp? Thanks
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So I currently have single RPM launch control set up on the car via an switch with an inline clutch switch as I have no non driven wheel speed input. But I was going to set up latched launch control but it seems I have to choose to have one or the other setup not both, is there no way of having both types but using different inputs to activate them? I was planning on using my screen wash stalk to activate the latched launch using an inline switch to activate it. Thanks
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Every once and awhile the car pops a little flame out the back on the gear change, childish I know but fun. I was wondering if it is an easy task to make the car do it all the time on full throttle high rpm runs when changing gear? From a quick search it seems it may be to do with the overrun fuel cut and ignition retard but I'm unsure if its safe to have a dabble with these figures? If so what sort of changes is safe to make? or is it strictly a tuner only job?
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Great thanks for everyone's help
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so I can report back that with the cam set to hall, pullup off and rising edge it works fine, have attached a sope
with it being swapped from reluctor to hall does this effect the map at all?
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Ok I will give it a try today :-) oh and by the way trigger priority is all ready set to trigger 1
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Yer I have messaged that chap to see if he can shed any more light on the problem. I find it weird how it's been fine for quite a while then just now it's got a lot worse. Guess I will have to wait for Simon to see if it's ok to set it as a Hall type
Crank Timing
in G4+
Posted
Just a quick one, so I have just got the car together with its new engine but it’s not running right, hunting on idle and stalling when the revs drop. It’s got a 3.0 crank (was a 2.8) and 1.5mm over bore making it’s a 3.15l, exhaust cam on the intake. So I want to check the base timing but I seem to remember it being a bit of a pain to do a zero. So it’s a Bmw m50nv engine and the crank settings are 60 missing 2, so does this mean that each divot on the wheel equates to 6 degrees? So an easier number to used could be 12 so two divots before?