Nettlez
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Posts posted by Nettlez
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Ok will try setting up open loop and tweaking master fuel. By tweak to you mean lean off? as when the car is running this map that's mean for a 2.5L with higher compression its running around 10:1afr at idle even though its bigger? I would have thought a 2.8 would have wanted more fuel hence why I wondered if it was the compression related.
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I think my vr polarity is correct as I took a scope to check it, I can upload that too if you want? Yer that sounds like a good idea as it was struggling to idle. So am I not right in thinking that because of the 0.140" hg spacer it will be running richer? I'm just thinking its got considerably less compression so it won't be as efficient?
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Yer I have done trigger calibration, just at idle though not with it revving. What are you thinking? No injectors are Siemens 600cc ones.
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I have recently built up a bmw m50 2.8l engine with 0.140" head gasket spacer and wired in a G4+. There is a BMW E36 plugin base map but this is mean for a 2.5L single vanos engine, I have edited it to suit my non vanos engine sensor wise as they have different cam sensor and ignition timing. My question is with my engine now being lower compression than what the base map was meant for what would you need to alter to make the base map more suitable? Advance ignition timing? As with the base map on it runs very rich 10:1AFR even though its mean for a 2.5L and it struggles to idle and will die as it warms up if no throttle is applied, only needs 5% and it will say running but then once it gets to around 80 degrees the afr starts to yoyo from rich and lean. The car is booked in for mapping in roughly a month, its been to one garage but it seems a bit out of there norm so im just trying to get a good understanding of what effect the changes I have made have on the mapping side of things. Attached is my edited base map. Thanks in advance
BMW E36 G4+ Xtreme Plugin rafe edit - idle stepper 4 wire not 3.pclr
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Blown Ecu??
in G4+
Well after taking it apart again yesterday to double check timing it started, turned it off to put timing light on then it wouldn't start again, it would just splutter, then battery died. Thinking it was really rich before to account for bad timing, and now the timing is right it needs to be leaned off. Either way my Ecu seems to be ok! :-) thanks
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Blown Ecu??
in G4+
I had the engine apart to check timing and adjusted it as it was slightly our then once I put it back together I left the earth for my coil packs and igniters off and turned tried to start the engine, it didn't fire then I realised what I had done. Then after re connecting the wires it still wouldn't fire, I manually turned each coil on and they all clicked, suspecting I may have blew the igniters I brought some new ones but still no joy. Checked timing and it's all good, I'm getting fuel and spark but it won't run. Will I have damaged the Ecu in some way leaving the wires off?
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Hi
I have recently just built an m50b28 and i just used the black extreme sample and edited it to suit my setup as the e36 plugin base map is for vanos engine which has a different cam sensor type and crank trigger wheel. Mine started fine with master fuel set at 12
Cheers Rafe
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Thanks yeh that looks to be the same, I have got aem 30-5132 boost gauge and aem 30-5130 wide and but they look to be the same. I was confused as it wouldn't let me put a minus figure in for psi and the table supplied in the instructions doesn't show kpa. All sorted now thanks
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Thanks for the reply, I just found that when I updated the software so that's one down. Yes I just want to use it as a map sensor, I noticed also now on the update there are extra map sensor calibrations, there's one for a Bosch 3.5 bar which seems very similar to the aem one, do we know if it's the same?
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Hi,
I'm trying to set up cal tables for my AEM wideband and boost gauges. I'm having trouble with putting a minus figure in for the boost gauge and then it wont let me have decimal increments for the afr gauge. I have attached pics of the tables that are in the instructions that come with the gauges, I just want to put these figures into a cal table for analog input.
Thanks
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just for information it was 276 to get it started :-)
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How much cooling they need will depend on how much current your coils pull and how often or long the engine spends at high load. Most electronics will give a significantly shorter life expectancy above say 85C so you want to take some steps to minimise this. The general rule is they need to be mounted to an aluminium plate of reasonable thickness and surface area and you really want them in reasonably open air so that convection can do its job. You should also use heat transfer paste on the mating faces (the modules normally come with a small packet). Certainly under the dash is ok but I wouldn't be sealing them in a box.
Brilliant, thanks for the reply, fingers crossed it all comes this week and it gets up and running
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Thanks for the help guys. I have ordered some of the Bosch 3 channel amps and some plugs. And as for the trigger two yeh I swapped the wires because it wasn't starting just to try it, will swap it back. Fingers crossed it for these and it will come alive.
Do these Amps need a lot of cooling? It says they need to be on a heat sink so will do that but didn't know if they would be ok in a box under the dash seeing as they were originally in the Ecu?
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The stock ecu has built in ignition modules. You must install an ignition module between the Link ecu and the coils.
ah right, any recommendations on what igniters I could use? How do they have to be wired?
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still no joy with 276
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It is safe to try with 276 degrees also. -84 or 276 is the correct angle for both m50 and m20.
With igniter I mean an ignition module between the coil and ecu. The m50 coils can NOT be wired directley to the ecu.
ok I will give it a try with 276 degrees. These are the actual coils I brought. Do these bot have a built in ignition module? There was nothing else wired in between them and the Ecu before?
http://www.autodoc.co.uk/ngk/7007510
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Hi.
Have you tested the injectors and coils that they work as they should with the PClink software?
You have wired in ignitors for the coils? as these does not have built in igniters.
Fuel pressure okay?.
Had a quick look on your file and that seemed okay. I know the trigger angle 84 degrees as you have is okay for wasted spark, but Im not 100% sure if it is 84 or 276 that is correct for full sequential. Have you tried both? (s54 use 276).
Eivind
also just found this, there's a picture and small write up towards the bottom saying the non vanos wheel is used on the m20 m50 and s54 but the picture shows the angle as 84 still? yet the trigger angle in the link ecu help for an s54 is listed as 276?
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have you tried using the e36 base map?
yes I tried using that base map but editing it to suit the non vanos as it has a different crank sensor and timing offset as well as my injectors and what not but to no joy unfortunately
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Hi.
Have you tested the injectors and coils that they work as they should with the PClink software?
You have wired in ignitors for the coils? as these does not have built in igniters.
Fuel pressure okay?.
Had a quick look on your file and that seemed okay. I know the trigger angle 84 degrees as you have is okay for wasted spark, but Im not 100% sure if it is 84 or 276 that is correct for full sequential. Have you tried both? (s54 use 276).
Eivind
Thanks for the reply Eivind. I have tested the injectors and coils as per the pre start up checks by manually enabling the outputs and listening for an audible click and they all matched up to the correct output and make the click noise. By ignitors im not 100% sure what you mean but the car uses pensile type coils and are all brand new and are like the item below:
I haven't tried a different trigger angle as I looked at the tooth count and the maths said it was right as well as the other info I found on the internet so didn't want to risk damaging the engine, would it be safe to try the 276 trigger angle? Ande the fuel pressure is ok, adjustable fuel pressure regulator set to 3.5 bar and gauge currently still on and reading ok
Have you tried adding/retracting 360 degrees to your timing offset? Could be firing 360 degrees off.
No I haven't tried that, seems to be a common thought that it might be out. Im guessing there is no other way of checking other than using a timing light? or is it safe to just try it and see if it fires?
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Hi,
I have recently been building a BMW E30 M50 non vanos turbo. Finally I have got everything finished and I have got oil pressure then came to try starting the car but it just will not start. I have been through the ecu first time setup and start up several times looking for something I have done wrong but cant seem to find anything. The ECU was a wire in job as there isn't a plugin option for the non vanos, the ecu is a link g4+ extreme and this engine is usually in a bmw e36 early model. The engine is stroked to a 2.8 from a 2.5 but its still essentially a 2.5 non vanos. All I am after doing is getting the engine running so I can check for leaks and top fluids up before it goes to be mapped properly at the end of August. Would be very grateful if someone could have a look at the file to see if anything it a miss, thanks
Random high engine rpm data logging
in G4+
Posted
Hi,
Im having some trouble with a bmw m50 engine, the car is idling fine then all of a sudden dies, twice now at 59ect. I ran data logging and noticed that on both occasions the data log reported spikes of around 3000rpm, but I was sat in the car and it never went anything like that. What could be the causes of this? Failing crank sensor? It is new but not genuine. Is there a was of data logging the trigger signals? I select them uder setup but then can never see them when watching it back? Data logs attached
Thanks
open loop idle died 59 degrees.llg
59 then died again 2.llg