krohelm

Got it started last night. The firing order table could use slightly better documentation - I interpreted the Cylinders label as defining the 1234 axis values to be cylinders, where the values would be the firing order. In fact, the Cylinders label is more appropriately Firing Order and the values are cylinder numbers. Maybe my brain is wired backwards, but maybe put a note in the PC Link documentation? :-) CAN Lambda is discoverable by the ecu (can "see" it and set the lambda # and comm rate) but not contributing a runtime value. Need to figure this out before starting again. Really blew me away how well it ran after I fixed the amateur firing order mistake. Little time with a working lambda and I think it'll idle better than the factory ecu. Good work Link people!

Got the parts, built a patch harness and plugged it in to see what PCLink thought of the state of things. At 7 degrees C both the water and air temp sensors are within a degree or so of what weather.com says the temperature is. TPS works great. Thanks for the tips. Looking forward to installing the o2 sensor, wiring the ignition and running the vacuum line to the ECU over the next few days.

Seemed redundant, but the factory ECU liked to idle better when I recalibrated the TPS sensor so it was signalling 0 correctly. Won't bother with the TPS=0 wire. I'll test the temperature/resistance later and use the std Bosch calibration for now. Thanks for the confirmation. Yes, my fuel pressure regulator is MAP referenced (via a tiny vacuum line into ITB 1). Are you suggesting that I connect the Monsoon's built in MAP sensor to the inlet manifold, or are you suggesting that I use the Toyota MAP sensor? Seems to me like maybe the Link one will work better, especially since there would be a ~3 foot vacuum hose acting as a manifold of sorts to buffer the ITB vacuum pulse. I'm not using open trumpets, I've got the 20v air intake plumbed to the AW11 airbox in the trunk. There's probably a little vacuum in there to read under WOT I'd guess, but data logging will tell all soon. Does the Monsoon have a BAP sensor built-in in addition to its MAP sensor? I'm doing programming and planning my wire harness; should have at least a partial harness done next weekend. Really eager to get this wired in!

Yep, looks like according to the "Digital Input Allocation Chart" in your G4+ manual, digital 1-8 are 500hz. If you upgrade your ECU, 11-16 inputs (like on the XTreme) support 6500hz, which should be good to 6500 / 53 * 3.7485 = 459MPH without modifying your source signal from the 53t rings you've already got fit. Just yet another option to consider :-)

Inputs for this engine: Digital Inputs Start Position +12v(can connect throttle closed whenever it's supported by Link as an input for idle control)Analog Inputs 83420-20040 factory engine coolant temp sensor Which Sensor Type should I use here?Factory inlet air temperature sensor Which Sensor Type should I use here?Factory MAP sensor Should I even use this? I'm basing my tune off of TPS and using the built-in MAP sensor as a BAP "Equation load source". If I do TPS tune, should I also use "No FP Correction"?Factory TPS sensor Pretty sure I'll need to just spend a few minutes with a volt meter and get the right values, should be ok.If I need to calibrate these sensors, how do I associate a Cal Table with, e.g., the TP(Main) input?

That's a good plan. I have a dyno lined up tentatively for March. I should have the installation completed by then barring any really major surprises. Let me know if you want to supply an MR2 connector, they do indeed appear physically compatible. I might be able to find one at a local pick & pull but having a contingency is desirable! Thanks again for your time and replies. I'm still open to input on things that have tripped people up. Pouring through club4ag, they've got a lot of good information too.

Thanks Scott, I hope your Christmas/New Year was as good as mine :-). I could have sworn the Monsoon had the ability to take a knock sensor as input, that saddens me greatly: I was planning to set timing conservatively, but my car may sit at times (aging fuel) and I'd like the safety net of an ECU action on knock. Maybe I'll just have to drive more! CAN-Lambda is ordered, when are you releasing the CAN-Knock (and can I be an early adopter)? At 11:1 compression on U.S. pump premium, I'm sure to be detonation-limited rather than advance-limited. How do you recommend setting timing for the Monsoon & Atom ecus? With an ECU knock retard I'd advance to the first hint of knock, back off maybe 2 degrees and go boldly forth. There's no silver bullet number for this, but what factors would you consider and how would you weight them in your decision for where to put your timing in relation to an observed "knock point"? This is how I'm thinking, but there are probably more factors or different ways to think about them. Edge_of_knock+5° seems pretty safe in my mind (per load/rpm cell), do you feel otherwise? FactorAggressive AllowanceConservative AllowancePump Octane Variance+1°+3°Fuel Age Variance+0°+1°Fear Uncertainty and Doubt+0°+2°

I have a 4age 20v Blacktop Toyota engine in a mk1 MR2. The engine was installed with a harness from WireGap and plugs into the factory Blacktop ECU just like a factory loom. Runs great. Wife got me a brand new Monsoon for Christmas (I hinted it might be appreciated) and I'm now planning to do coil-on-plugs imminently, and maybe supercharge a couple (3-6) pounds in the future. I'd like to get the ECU up and running sooner though. I need to make a translation pigtail from the "factory" Blacktop harness to the Link Monsoon. Is there a convenient wiring diagram for this someone could share, along with any special notes for configuration (fixed timing advance for first startup, VVT recommendations etc.)?I need a knock sensor. Do I need the Link knock light system, or is the knock sensor itself enough for this? (I'm going to datalog every trip and do nerd science with the data)I need a wideband o2 sensor. I think I need the Link/Bosch CAN lambda sensor (for the extra data), or can the Monsoon read the Bosch LSU4.9 sensor natively?Additionally, any general guidance on a 4age 20v Blacktop would be appreciated. I'm new to tuning, but have been (1) reading forums nonstop for months, (2) watching High Performance Academy instructionals, (3) reading Performance Fuel Injection Systems and (4) working on cars for 15 years. I plan on carefully proceeding to attempt road/track tuning and supplementing my experience with Dyno time for that perfect edge, hopefully after I've achieved a passable tune manually. If I suck at this I'll just go pay the dyno guy to do it for me, but I really want to learn it myself ;-). I need to order a Link A pigtail and a 20v ECU socket to get the harness patched across. This will be a project that unfolds over the coming months. I look forward to learning Link!