krohelm

Based on logged VE tuning with VVT ON or OFF, about 3.5 hrs of driving show maximum VE would be chosen as follows for RPM/TPS: 22502500275030003500400045005000550060006500700075008000101100000011111115111000001111112011100000111111251111000011111130111110011111113511111001111111401111100111111145111111011111115011111111111111601111111111111170111111111111108011111111111110901111111111111010000111111111100 This seems like a pretty valuable use case for which to be able to define a map. I have been digging in PCLink but I can't find a place to translate this map into an input for my Switched Cam auxiliary output.That red range in the middle is the highway cruising zone. I'd love to have that tuned correctly!

Thanks for the detailed reply! I definitely don't want to just consider rpm, especially as I'm going after drivability first, performance second. The factory ecu kicks in VVT around 40% throttle while ECT is above something like 50c. If I'm not worrying about coolant temperature (which definitely, I won't ever flog it cold, it's not a daily driver) then maybe yes it can all just be reflected on the main fuel map. I'm new to this stuff, but very eager to learn, and posts like yours are very helpful; I wish I had VVTi but hey, 20v's sound really good :-). I missed my dyno appointment due to lambda problems, but have another scheduled in a few weeks. In the meantime I'll be gathering logs on the road and learning. FWIW I just took a 2 hour drive with a really aggressive >5% tps at 500-7500rpm to get VVT data logged. I think from this information I can plot the optimum rev range choices at least for the low RPM crossover. I'll need to dyno to get it perfect, but it should be a pretty reasonable first cut to just use max resolution pc logs. Hopefully there's just a low & high crossover or the condition will get pretty ugly. However accurate this app is in absolute measurements, it does show at least show the relative behavior of my factory ECU very consistently: https://network.perfexpert-app.com/results/Om73daQtqJ I'm hoping to fix that torque hole (you can definitely feel a "flatness" via butt-dyno on factory ECU). With a drivability focus, that point likely differs around the fuel map. Is there any way to have a "general purpose map" where I can define ON/OFF for my cam switch (e.g., rpm / tp(main) <maps to> aux4 on/off)? This would still let me use 1 fuel map but get way more value out of my cam switch!

For my 4age 20v Blacktop I'd like to trigger VVT like the factory ECU, considering ECT, TPS (or maybe mgp) and RPM. I'm just uncertain about the best way to model this in PCLink with regard to volumetric efficiency. I think advancing intake cam by 30 crank degrees changes VE - if this is true, what's the right way to account for it in PCLink? It's a little more complex than just filling in the VE table, since the same throttle position & rpm can have advance or not depending on coolant temperature (and maybe other factors). I have an aux set to CAM-Switched with a virtual aux condition chained to get a couple more conditions. Dual Table Mode set to Dual Table, activated by the VVT aux trigger. The most obvious solution to me is to use the 2nd fuel table and basically tune the engine twice. Is there a better way to handle triggered-VVT VE shifting on a modeled fueling tune? 4age 20v modeled.pclr

Iterated with Simon, and regardless of the log files and voltmeter measurements - I ran a new power supply pair and it works (I tried this parallel twice before). While I'm curious what was wrong with the +/- I had, I just do not care enough to root cause it; my car works and Link tech support is amazing. On to tuning!

Can you log more stuff on PC, like runtime values for trigger1/2 errors etc? It's really looking like you've got a trigger signal quality problem; maybe your arming voltages are too low, resulting in extra triggers. File time 6:01.243 engine speed is 37,350rpm - not a very plausible figure. If you have an oscilloscope, you should shoot for arming threshold around 1/2 the peak trigger voltage at each rpm range as a starting point. Lower voltage threshold is more susceptible to noise (e.g., ignition component emi), but higher voltage can cause skipped trigger signals. Maybe also double check your cam sensor to make sure it's clean, not sending extra cam pulses accidentally.

Bosch has some pretty detailed information here, including graph over time of heater voltage: www.bosch-motorsport.com/media/catalog_resources/Lambda_Sensor_LSU_49_Datasheet_51_en_2779147659pdf.pdf Observationally, CAN-Lambda waits 5-7 seconds after engine rpm exceeds 400 before engaging the sensor. My air is still pretty cold after 5-7 seconds, I'd love to have a virtual output control when rpm is 0 and when it's "as measured" for CAN output to id 958 (iirc that's where can-lambda 0 gets rpm). That way I could delay heating further.

Hi Adam, no worries, I just have to throw out the net as wide as possible at this point. This now has me pouring back through the FSM for my 20v to see exactly where the ground is terminated - which is definitely not a bad exercise! I'll be online tomorrow morning NZ to continue the troubleshooting. Thanks for the note, rrob, will follow up if that is somehow the issue. :-) edit: Yeah, it's definitely a proper ground. Diagram is attached. For reference, E1 on the ecu is "Engine ground." The O2 sensor grounds to the engine head, I know the post it's in good condition. BTW I did not use OX and HT for CAN bus I ran a shielded twisted pair just for it.

For what it's worth, I'm on my 3rd LSU 4.9 sensor connected to a CAN-Lambda & Monsoon ECU and still have not gotten even one to work. I would try just about anything at this point to get my CAN-Lambda combo up and running. If there were a compatible NTK sensor with even rumors of higher durability I'd be all over that personally.

Anyone else have one of these that's working? What PCB REV is yours?

+12v and ground come from the old o2 sensor wires. Power comes via the efi relay and the ground appears to be the engine head but I didn't trace it through the loom. I jumpered directly to the battery to see if power supply was a problem and it made no difference, status rotation was exactly the same. There's no voltage error from the CAN-Lambda and voltage does test fully in spec while it's heating... Resistor is for the CAN bus termination. 120 ohms is needed at both ends of a high speed CAN bus line. Link ECU's have the one end covered internally, and since the CAN-Lambda doesn't have a termination resistor you have to provide one on the main bus wire after you tap it for the CAN-Lambda. 0 CAN bus errors and data is constantly flowing as you can see the CAN-Lambda temperature and status continually rotating in the logs.

I had trigger 1 errors until all of the mentioned problems were addressed. It's probably just arming voltage on NE and maybe 360 degree offset due to G1. Config file would help reduce guesswork.

I have a 20v with a Link Monsoon running in my garage. I also used G1 for my trigger 2 - I had to add 360 degrees to my trigger offset (G1 seems to be TDC exhaust, but no big deal +360 is all you need). Give that a shot and yeah, post your config file. Also, your arming threshold voltages are too high. At 0 RPM use 0.3v, at 1000 use 1.0v. maybe 3 at 2000 and 3.5 3000+. Might be lower for you but this is working without trigger errors for me,

Got the replacement CAN-Lambda. Installed it, put in the new o2 sensor, same problem. I drove the car around for a little over 10 minutes, no change in the condition. Sometimes error code 33, sometimes error code 34 with no rhyme or reason for which one it is as it goes through its reboot cycle. 33: Open circuit APE-IPE 34: Open circuit RE-IPE This is the 3rd brand new LSU4.9 I've used with the exact same behavior. 2 from New Zealand and 1 from Amazon in USA.Still, no errors with the CAN bus. I used high quality twisted, shielded, grounded wire terminated with a 120 ohm resistor after the tap for the CAN-Lambda - I didn't expect a problem there. PCLink shows all CAN checks OK and error counts 0.No problems supplying power. 13.9v while it's heating. I jumped directly to the battery to rule out the possibility of low voltage that my Fluke was somehow missing.O2 sensor threads in freely by hand, no binding or twisting. It's mounted in full compliance with the CAN-Lambda manual.Wire connectors are not pulled or stretched - all connections exhibit proper relief. Log file from drive attached. What else can I try? Log 2017-02-23 7;48;46 pm First drive no lambda.llg

Thanks for the reply and explanation, Dave. I chatted with Simon and it appears that I may have gotten a pre-production CAN-Lambda from my dealer based on the connections being soldered. I'm now in the process of having it replaced. This is my first experience with Link support physically, I hope it works out as well as their Internet support which I've been really impressed with!

Yep, I'll be chatting with him in the morning. I don't think I'll bother about solder vs. crimp on the connection, I'm more interested in getting it to work for the moment. The power wire was just trimmed too short and pushed in. I rectified it really quickly with my fx-888d. If I really get feeling ambitious maybe sometime I'll replace these pins with crimped pins. The CAN-Lambda module is 100% non-serviceable near as I can figure or I would definitely be checking each solder pad with a magnifying glass looking for any hint of a defect that might explain the operation. Both of the brand new o2 sensors I've tried do heat up, but then code 33 or 34 happens. It always happens right at about 520c after heating looking at the logs.

Serviced the power wire connection and checked the car. Still does the same thing. Power to the connection is well within spec, the CAN-Lambda connection is now visibly electrically sound. Log file like the original post one attached... Log 2017-02-18 7;09;13 pm.llg

I hope this doesn't affect my warranty coverage, I'm just trying to debug my CAN-Lambda! I observed a low o2 sensor voltage error one time just now while experimenting with powering the CAN-Lambda while the engine is off and no CAN connectivity back to the ECU for first 2+ seconds of power. Since I've verified that the voltage at the connector I've provided is 13.9v while heating and the engine is running (and the o2 sensor requires >= 10.8v according to the spec sheet) maybe there's a problem with the CAN-Lambda Deutsch plug. So I disassembled the pwr & gnd pins on the CAN-Lambda plug. The pwr wire is not assembled totally correctly, so I'm going to re-solder it. Notice that the shielding of the red wire goes into the Deutsch solder pin... it's hard to see in the picture, zoom in if you can. This is not the recommended means of assembly: These connectors are technically supposed to be crimped (not sure what connector places have against solder, but apparently even these solid pins are supposed to be 100% crimp connectors) but be that as it may, wire jackets don't belong inside the solder pocket. Black wire looks great, please don't take away my warranty coverage Link people :-( Reference http://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/39051ed66cf0bac8360059bb809f47cb.pdf for the reference to the technical document 0425-205-0000, found at https://laddinc.com/products/deutsch-products/deutsch-information-drawings/ which lists crimp tool HDP-400. Looks stupid expensive, I'll just make the red wire look like the black one.

Thanks for the reply Dave! I have not seen this option in PCLink, how can I set it this way? I wanted to try this but didn't want to force the mode by leaving the CAN bus unplugged for >= 2 seconds after power up. Actually, this is a CAN-Lambda setup. I found the setting in "Help Browser" but it looks like that setting is only applicable to internally controlled lambda sensors - which Monsoons don't support. :-/ I'll try to work out a pre-heat test. There are a few features I wish I had, I wish I could upgrade this ECU!

I use G1, but that turns out to be wrong. No big deal really, my trigger calibration just adds 360 degrees to the offset to get TDC compression. I'd use G2 if I did it again.

I really appreciate you taking the time to offer your thoughts :-).

5.6.5, I keep up to date like an addict.

No. I installed the o2 sensor the CAN-Lambda kit came with as it came. Then 2 days later installed another new o2 sensor from Amazon. No modifications, just screwed them into the m18 boss that came with the CAN-Lambda. I had the boss welded into the original o2 sensor location; it's elevated 25-35 degrees above horizontal, a couple feet down from the header and before the flex pipe.

Made a test harness to check voltage under load. It does not draw the feed line below 13.85 volts while the heating element is on at the point of connection to the CAN-Lambda. Video of voltage cycling with load as the CAN-Lambda cycles the o2 sensor through calibration, heating and errors 33 & 16. https://goo.gl/photos/DijeiVstLmUe1QgB8

By the way I'm in the United States and I need this thing working within a week or so (have dyno time scheduled shortly after, makes shipping back & forth with NZ challenging). I'm willing to try lots of things. I still can't figure out how to disassemble the wiring harness on the CAN-Lambda non-destructively, if someone knows how I'd love some tips... I've got a spare DTM-4P connector I'm going to make into a test harness for the CAN-Lambda. Any bright ideas as to what I should look for? Voltage under load at the connector maybe, but what else? Maybe a set of tests I can do with a DMM on the o2 sensor or the CAN-Lambda?

TL;DR: Add a 22uF capacitor to your CAN-Lambda, as close as humanly possible to the device. Nasty problem with my CAN-Lambda. On startup, watching the runtime values "ECU Status" tab, Lambda 1 box: Before startup, it's OK/diagnostic/waiting for rpm. After startup it cycles. Calibration Heating Error After heating code 33 Open circuit APE-IPE code 16 Heated too long While heating, the temperature very rapidly rises to 500-600c (2-4 seconds depending on exhaust gas temperature) before the code 16. What I've tried: Carefully inspected wiring harness on o2 sensors. No issues. Carefully inspected wiring harness on CAN-Lambda. No visible issues, but I couldn't disassemble the pins to verify the crimps on APE and IPE wires (lack special tool or understanding of connector). Replaced o2 sensor with a brand new one from Amazon. Exactly the same behavior. Allowed the engine to reach operating temperature with mixed low and high idle. Verified 0 CAN 1 Receive Error Counter. Verified 0 CAN 1 Transmit Error Counter. Verified 0 ECU Fault Codes Verified operating battery voltage 14.2v Log file is attached. Observe parameters Lambda 1, Lambda 1 Error, Lambda 1 Status, Lambda 1 Temp to see the cycle. It's the same with both LSU 4.9 sensors I've tried. Pclr is attached for 4age 20v engine. It's a work in progress. Log 2017-02-16 9;36;52 pm.llg 4age 20v.pclr