Vaughan
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Posts posted by Vaughan
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Not likely to be anything to do with those two errors, they are more a diagnostics thing than an actual error hence why they have been hidden in the new release.
I've just noticed your log actually shows it running rich (not lean, was thinking of the numbers the wrong way round) from startup until warmup and then goes lean once it gets to 80deg C.
Do you have a log with the some acceleration in it showing it being lean and then back to regular fueling after the acceleration?
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G4x xtreme
in G4x
There isn't an Xtreme sample map in the current release, there should be one in the next release.
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It looks like the ign switch signal comes in on pin 118 as a 12v when on signal and the ecu pulls pin 97 to ground to turn on the main relay.
If the main relay does indeed power the engine, fans and ECU then what you would need to do is hook up pin 118 to a DI (set to ignition sw) and to ecu pin 120 (ECU power), this will also require a diode to ensure that only the ECU is powered up by the ign switch and not the rest of the items connected to the same circuit. You will also need to connect a spare inj or ign pin to pin 97 and use it as your hold power output (you probably can't use an aux as if the other side of the relay coil is constant power this could hold the ECU power on). This is all assuming that the other side of the main relay coil is connected to constant power and not a switched power.
The help manual "Wiring Information > Power and Ground Wiring > ECU Hold Power Wiring" section might help explain the general idea better
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Looks like the main relay is controlled by some circuitry on the bottom board of the ECU, not explicitly by an ECU output. It or the wiring could most likely be modified to allow the ECU to hold itself on.
An alternative could be to have a kill switch to turn off the engine without turning the ECU off (RPM Zero timeout fan setting will need to be set appropriately).
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Does the ECU show any errors for CAN2?
Have you got CAN 1 and CAN 2 plugged in the right way around?
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It is possible to use the cam sync but you will have to be careful how you set it up. The 1jz vvti pattern looks like what you say your pattern is so I would recommend giving that trigger mode a go. I'm not sure if it's possible to setup a cam with multiple teeth for sync when using multi/missing trigger mode in G4+, it is possible in G4X.
You will need to recheck your calibration angle if you change to the 1jz vvti mode
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I believe you want to use the 1jz vvti trigger mode
in terms of offset you'll need to figure that out with your fuel turned off and a timing light
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G4x xtreme
in G4x
A lot of the PCLink software is visually very similar, the biggest difference being that unlike in G4+ where you go to the aux/DI/anv pin and then set what it is you now go to the function and select what pins that function is using.
I recommend just having a play with the software, have a look through all the features and read the help manual if you are unsure what something does.
I also recommend using the new asynchronous injection function (under Fuel Main) which greatly reduces the need for accel fuel and is a lot faster to react than traditional accel fuel.
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If it is a distributor car from factory the tacho most likely needs modification to work with an ecu signal instead of a coil signal. I've modified an mr2 tacho before with a couple of resistors, not sure how to do your one but some people have managed to trigger coil controlled tacho's by wiring a relay coil up to simulate the coil signal.
I believe the sweeps happen when the ecu powers up.
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That basemap doesn't appear to have fuel turned on and is setup for modelled fuel (which doesn't have a master fuel value).
have you had it running long enough to get a Lambda reading?
Have you tried putting more fuel into it just to get it running and allow you to warm it up and set it up properly?
Do you have any logs of your start up?
I believe there is also a newer firmware available than what you are running, never a bad idea to use the most up to date PCLink and firmware especially if it's a new tune.
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I don't have any experience with that particular motor but you should just need to connect your trigger 1 to the crank sensor (I assume the 1.8vvt motor has a crank trigger unlike the earlier 1.6 with cam sensors only) and trigger 2 to your cam sensor. Connect an aux (one of aux1-10, aux ign5-8 or aux inj5-8) and a switched power wire to the vvt solenoid. That should be all you need to do specifically for the vvt wiring.
You might have to add wires to the loom for inj3&4 to run sequential fuel as they are connected to the ECU header but the earlier vehicles don't use them and so might not have wires connected to those pins.
Other than that have a look through the plugin pinout and the loom in your car to make sure you have all the wires you need to do what you want, you may even be able to use another pin like aux7 (purge) for your vvt control instead of adding an expansion loom.
One final note, the factory wiring for the early mx5s has the MAF turning on the Fuel pump so you may want to rewire that.
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I use the link 1/8BSP sensor, seems to work fine
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Will require quite a bit of rewiring but don't see why not
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@RossobianconeroThere is now a new release on the website which has that axis dp issue fixed.
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3 wire ISC
in G4+
Use Aux 1 and Aux 2, set to ISC Solenoid and ISC Solenoid Slave.
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Your ECU most likely has a second CAN bus available which can be used for any additional CAN stuff you want to add.
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Attach a copy of your basemap please
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The advanced settings allow you to change the initial cut, final cut and cut range among other things. The help manual has a section explaining how it all works but smaller start cut values might help as could a larger limit control range.
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If that's a PCLink log then it is possible that knock occured on all cylinders but the log wasn't fast enough to capture it.
Have a look at the post start enrichment settings if the engine is lean for a time after startup.
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In the Engine Fan menu there is a setting for each of the 3 fans called "Engine Fan X on with AC" where X is the fan number. Turning this setting on means that the fan will turn on when AC is on.
If you attach a copy of your map I can change that setting for you.
What do you mean by "hard wire kilometer"?
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Apologies if I got that wrong, I did test it with a relay I had lying around and it seemed to work but it was done on a G4X plugin not a G4+
G4x atomx
in G4x
Posted
Probably just need a log of the exact problem so I can see what the different fuel values are doing, this means I need to see it being lean and then dropping back to good fueling after some acceleration.
What I'm looking for is what different values are contributing to the amount of fuel going into the engine and trying to find which one is causing this change between lean and running right.
Thanks