Richard Hill
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Posts posted by Richard Hill
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Yes, either will work, just select lambda1 for the corresponding input in the link software. You might need to connect the sensor ground too.
HTH,
Richard.
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What vehicle have you got, and what ecu ? I am a big fan of hold power from a setup and tuning perspective as the ecu doesn't disconnect eveytime you cycle the ignition (most cars have a one shot crank ignition switch).
It should work in your application if you set the hold timer to about 10 seconds
HTH,
Richard
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A simple, tried and trusted solution for earths is :-
main engine strap goes from chassis to engine block (normally one of the engine mount points)
Coil on plug earth goes from head to a splice to each coil on plug ground ( I usually use an inlet manifold bolt as this does create a very low resistance path to the spark plug earth strap.
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What ignition amps are you running between the ECU and the coils?
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Are you using the trigger calibrate menu which will lock the timing to the offset value ? As cj mentioned a trigger scope and a log would probably help
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If you're not using narrow band lambda you could nick the analogue volt for that off the main ECU header plug...
The problem with temp. Inputs is they have an internal pull up resistor which is quite a high value, which will result in a low reading. If you can work around this then yes, although the calibration will show temperature, I guess you could create a custom calibration and ignore the temperature units. Calibrate as a percentage or maybe litres.
HTH
Richard.
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The GDI ecu has a dedicated output pin to drive a spill valve. You must use this, and set your peak and hold currents accordingly.
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Connection
in G4+
45 minutes ago, StijnDvx said:hi the ecu is out of the car and on the bench
green led lightning up and the firmwatre process doesnt detect the ecu
How are you powering the ECU?
I'm guessing it needs power on pin A-11 +14V (Main Relay) and A-10 (Ground)
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
It’s exactly the same process as doing a firmware update, just you choose an older version from the selection box. So, open up pc link but donot connect, if you use auto connect then just click ok to the pop up that tells you the software is version is too old or whatever. Then ecu controls>update firmware as per normal.
Brilliant, that's useful to know.
Thanks.
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On 1/7/2019 at 8:06 PM, Simon said:
Or alternatively you can roll back the firmware to 5.6.5 using the 5.6.5 pclink. (firmware can be changed with our PC link needing to connect.
Sorry, can you explain how? I didn't think you could connect to a newer firmware with an older version.
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Can you post a log file too? That would definitely help to see what might be causing the problem.
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Yes, that pinout looks correct, have you tried the following (no pull-up, the base map for the car with your sensor has pull-up off, but the 1-3 has pull-up on)
Mitsubishi EVO 1-3 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr
Mitsubishi EVO 4-8 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr
the speed signal pin for your ECU is 66, (as opposed to pin 86 on the 4-8)
HTH,
Richard.
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What version of the 610 driver are you using? Intel released one about 10 days ago, might be worth trying.
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/98910/Intel-HD-Graphics-610
HTH,
Richard.
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At the ECU end, white is can high or +, green is can low or -, connect these to the corresponding white CAN1+, and blue CAN1- at the dash end.
HTH,
Richard.
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Yes, the expansion connector allows you access to anvolt 5 and 6 on pins 5 and 6 . You could also use any spare inputs you may have on the main header (an volt 4, pin 37) . Maybe also fuel temp on an temp 3 ( pin 71) .
HTH
Richard.
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You don't have to pull the sender, that just makes it easier to work out the full voltage swing to check the potential divider values are correct.
I always calibrate with the sender in the tank. With a partial tank of fuel I disconnect the union at the fuel rail and pump the fuel into a container until the fuel pump draws the last pure fuel. That voltage is empty. Then add in 5 litre increments until full, noting the voltage at each point.
HTH,
Richard.
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Tach signal
in G4+
If you are not using air con (aux 3) or purge canister (aux 4) you could put the tachometer on one of them, alternatively you could put it on the expansion connector (aux 8). Then assign tachometer to that output in pc link
HTH,
Richard.
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Try the input units as volts. See what reading you get empty and full. (Ideally If the sender is not in the car, just move the float from min to max to test and read off the raw voltage )
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
Then Ign 7 or 8 would be the easiest. 1 wire from the solenoid goes to a switched +12V supply, the other wire goes to the expansion connector, ign 7 or 8.
Link help specifies adding a flyback diode for output protection on non aux outs , is this the case for ignition drives too?
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The newer Fords have a single analog output and a PWM output (which I think goes to the instrument cluster). The Fiesta ST180 pedal is like this. The only option I found was to connect the single analogue APP signal to both of the AN Volt inputs. This does reduce the fault tolerance of the system and also wastes an Analog input, but sometimes its the only way. Unless we can use PWM input for APP....
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the only units in the Cal are Lambda so for 14.7 Stoich :-
7.3=0.497
22.39=1.523
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That might be because some Lambda controllers output 5V on power up, before the sensor is active. Set error high to 5V to disable, but monitor the voltage to see if this is the case.
Also, input value B should be 5V
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An5 min and max should probably be 0.05V and 4.95V respectively
HTH
Richard.
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As Neil mentioned, probably better in the long run to let the ECU control the boost valve on an aux out. What ECU are you running and what engine ?
Wideband With Plug&Play - R32 GTR
in G4+
Posted
Yes, pin 50 should be fine.