Kurt_XK Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Problem: Can't connect to ECU from computer. When using "auto" I get an orange box and "searching" but never a connection. When using manual and trying to connect after selecting "COM3" I get a red box and "Offline." Background: I am working on a brand-new build/installation with a FURY ECU. I am running Windows 10 version 1909. I have PCLINK installed version: 5.6.7.3632 I have the USB cable plugged into the top plug (one with a rubber o-ring). In Windows device manager it is recognized in "Ports (COM & LPT)" " Link Engine Management USB ECU (COM3)" there is NO yellow triangle or exclamation. I believe I have the most updated drivers installed. I downloaded them and when I tried to install them, windows informed me they were the most up to date. What I've tried: tried switching baud rates. Selected new baud rate, hit connect, and powered off and on the ECU (via keyed ignition switch) Ensured ECU is powered by observing a "blue light" on front of ECU. (although dim) Verified I had +12VDC powering ECU. Closed PCLINK, restarted Windows, opened PCLINK and tried to connect. Checked "slow connection" tried to connect with same results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 25, 2020 Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 Sounds like you have done everything correct. I'll just make sure you have nothing plugged in to the CAN/Comm port below the USB port - this can mess with usb comms if connected at the same time. 42 minutes ago, Kurt_XK said: Ensured ECU is powered by observing a "blue light" on front of ECU. (although dim) This doesnt sound quite right, depending on the background lighting I would generally consider the LED is reasonably bright. If it were me, the next thing I would try is remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Just to eliminate a bad ground or similar. All it needs to go live is +12V on pin A5 and Ground on A34. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt_XK Posted January 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2020 1 hour ago, Adamw said: If it were me, the next thing I would try is remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Just to eliminate a bad ground or similar. All it needs to go live is +12V on pin A5 and Ground on A34. I just tried this and was able to get it to connect. The LED is now bright. Do you think a ground issue may be the likely cause? UPDATE: Confirmed it was a ground issue. Thank you for the assistance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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