gixer Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Hi, i have a freshly installed G4+ Fury and experince several problems, so firstly i want to know that my triggers are setted right. Thank you very much in advance for the help. The motor is BMW M50B25 VANOS with inductive/reluctor crankshaft sensor and hall camshaft sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 17, 2020 Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 Due to that cam tooth edge being right under the the point at where the ecu does a sync check (the first tooth after the gap) I think using the multitooth/missing mode is going to be problematic for you. I dont think M50's normally have this problem but nevermind there are a couple of things we can try. My first suggestion is to try the Chev LS7 (90 offset) trigger mode. This mode uses a 60-2 crank and it checks for sync somewhere around the 9th tooth after the gap. After swapping to this mode you will need to change trig 1 back to reluctor and redo the base timing. Let me know if that doesnt work, there are a couple of other options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted February 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2020 What you think about this option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 18, 2020 Report Share Posted February 18, 2020 Yep that should do fine (assuming it is just the on/off type vanos in this engine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted February 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2020 So, strange things start to occur with the modified trigger wheel. First the car wont start on Cam pulse x1 Sync mode like before and i managed to start it on Cam level setting, but more strange is how the trigger scope looks like. The scope is taken on runing engine and engine dont run good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 22, 2020 Report Share Posted February 22, 2020 Triggerscope looks ok to me. Change back to cam pulse 1x sync mode and add or subtract 360 deg from your offset. I suspect you are probably firing on exhaust stroke when you tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted February 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2020 Thank you very much! Ill try it as soon as possible and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted February 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 I did what you told me and it works, thank you. I setted the base timing with stroboscope. Now i have different problem, i cant manage to run the pwm cooling fan which i used with the Ecumaster, before i swap it for the Link. Are all 10 aux outputs of the fury able to.run it and do they have build in pull ups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 23, 2020 Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 Aux 1-8 would be suitable and have week internal pullups. Just set the AUX to GP PWM and configure to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted March 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 Hi again, we tuned the car yesterday with good results, but i have another problem, i think temp sensors, especialy coolant one, shows much higher temp then it realy is. How to calibrate them accurately? Before i had same problem with Ecumaster and one guy boil them in oil, but he tolds me that different ecus have different resistors and may be the values will be different, but i dont know did he measured them, connected to the ecu or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 A quick check you can do is remove the sensor and put it in a kettle of boiling water (while still connected to ecu) and it should read near 100°C. You can do the same in ice water to check it at 0°C. If they are stock BMW sensors then they should just use the "Std Bosch NTC" calibration setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted March 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Can i use cal1 table, set it to ohms and type in the boxes the resitent values of the sensor? And if i can do so, which pull up to choose 1kohm or 10kohm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 You can enter it but you dont need to. That table you have there matches the "Bosch Std NTC" calibration that is already built-in. You should use the 1K pull-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 A little different question, could i use my Link Fury to run LS1 turbo engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Yes, however the Fury only has 6 ignition outputs so you need to wire the coils in pairs to fire in wasted spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 But injection can be used sequentional, right? There is 8 injection drives. And what will be the dissadvantage to use wasted spark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 9 minutes ago, gixer said: But injection can be used sequentional, right? There is 8 injection drives. And what will be the dissadvantage to use wasted spark? Correct. The only disadvantage with wasted spark Vs Direct spark is you cant do individual cylinder knock control or individual cylinder ignition trims with wasted spark. You can still do knock control or individual trims on pairs of cylinder however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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