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Wiring in an xtreme g4+ on a wr250x supermoto single cylinder


Camal

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Hey guys can you tell me if I would find any issues installing this ecu on a single cylinder motorcycle ,for trigger this bike carries a cranksensor magnetic type, from the workshop manual ,I do not see any trig wheels other than The stator/generator 

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That is not a trigger scope attached.  Can you please do a scope and attach.

In your log you have many trigger errors so that is the first thing to fix.  

The 2nd problem is your MAP sensor is reading 4kpa so you are getting no fuel.  Your BAP is 101.3 so your MAP should read the same with the engine off.

You also only have 1ms dwell, not many inductive coils will work with that little, especially at cranking speed.

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I'm using a msd cdi on a denso pencil coil for ignition, the map readings,had that corrected it's now 14.5 psi bap is 14.7 ,the trigger is only crank it's a 12-1 (11 actual tooth and a missing tooth) I do not have a cam sync ,it's a single cyl 

1 minute ago, Camal said:

I'm using a msd cdi on a denso pencil coil for ignition, the map readings,had that corrected it's now 14.5 psi bap is 14.7 ,the trigger is only crank it's a 12-1 (11 actual tooth and a missing tooth) I do not have a cam sync ,it's a single cyl 

I am presently trying to find out the degrees to have the bike start ,my setup is 1 tooth per TDC single point, using wasted spark  on ignition 1 wire ,the ecu is link g4 + xtreme

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14 minutes ago, Camal said:

I do not have a cam sync ,it's a single cyl 

With no cam sync, you will have to set ignition mode to wasted spark and fuel mode to multipoint group.  

 

15 minutes ago, Camal said:

I'm using a msd cdi on a denso pencil coil for ignition

MSD's typically wont work with 1ms dwell at low rpm, they were originally designed to be triggered by points which gives long dwell at low RPM.  Set it to 2ms flat for now, you may find it works better with dwell set to duty cycle mode later, but I know they usually work ok with a flat 2ms so that will be the best starting point.

 

Still need to see a triggerscope...

 

23 minutes ago, Camal said:

am presently trying to find out the degrees to have the bike start ,my setup is 1 tooth per TDC single point, using wasted spark  on ignition 1 wire ,the ecu is link g4 + xtreme

Not sure what you are asking here?  Why did you say it is 12-1 earlier, and now 1 tooth per TDC?  How does it have 1 tooth per TDC without a cam sensor?

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2 hours ago, Camal said:

I'm using a msd cdi on a denso pencil coil for ignition, the map readings,had that corrected it's now 14.5 psi bap is 14.7 ,the trigger is only crank it's a 12-1 (11 actual tooth and a missing tooth) I do not have a cam sync ,it's a single cyl 

I am presently trying to find out the degrees to have the bike start ,my setup is 1 tooth per TDC single point, using wasted spark  on ignition 1 wire ,the ecu is link g4 + xtreme

Sorry my phone doesn't show the file I asked for two files from the guy that has the laptop and he sent me the tune and a crank log 

1 hour ago, Adamw said:

With no cam sync, you will have to set ignition mode to wasted spark and fuel mode to multipoint group.  

 

MSD's typically wont work with 1ms dwell at low rpm, they were originally designed to be triggered by points which gives long dwell at low RPM.  Set it to 2ms flat for now, you may find it works better with dwell set to duty cycle mode later, but I know they usually work ok with a flat 2ms so that will be the best starting point.

 

Still need to see a triggerscope...

 

Not sure what you are asking here?  Why did you say it is 12-1 earlier, and now 1 tooth per TDC?  How does it have 1 tooth per TDC without a cam sensor?

Ok so I believe that setting is wrong as at the time that is what I was using on the single  injector setting but the  drivers showed up as off and I couldn't turn them on so please disregard

 

2 hours ago, Adamw said:

With no cam sync, you will have to set ignition mode to wasted spark and fuel mode to multipoint group.  

 

MSD's typically wont work with 1ms dwell at low rpm, they were originally designed to be triggered by points which gives long dwell at low RPM.  Set it to 2ms flat for now, you may find it works better with dwell set to duty cycle mode later, but I know they usually work ok with a flat 2ms so that will be the best starting point.

 

Still need to see a triggerscope...

 

Not sure what you are asking here?  Why did you say it is 12-1 earlier, and now 1 tooth per TDC?  How does it have 1 tooth per TDC without a cam sensor?

 

Screenshot_20201123-200456.png

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2 hours ago, Adamw said:

With no cam sync, you will have to set ignition mode to wasted spark and fuel mode to multipoint group.  

 

MSD's typically wont work with 1ms dwell at low rpm, they were originally designed to be triggered by points which gives long dwell at low RPM.  Set it to 2ms flat for now, you may find it works better with dwell set to duty cycle mode later, but I know they usually work ok with a flat 2ms so that will be the best starting point.

 

Still need to see a triggerscope...

 

Not sure what you are asking here?  Why did you say it is 12-1 earlier, and now 1 tooth per TDC?  How does it have 1 tooth per TDC without a cam sensor?

 

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On 11/21/2020 at 5:03 PM, Adamw said:

Please attach a triggerscope of it cranking and your tune.

How to do the scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=3XclIA

Ok got engine speed ,arming voltage was wrong so now I got engine speed

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9 hours ago, Camal said:

Ok got engine speed ,arming voltage was wrong so now I got engine speed

Already sent the trig scope, trouble I'm having is with timing.  the timing light it strobes every time the missing tooth passes the sensor (right?) , however the TDC mark on the stator wheel  which is pretty close to the missing tooth  when it lines up to verify the engine is at TDC compression stroke the cranksensor it self is about 4 or so teeth away from the missing tooth, so I added some marks to see exactly when the strobe light flashes in relation to the TDC mark on the crank cover and  it flashes almost 180 degrees away from where the TDC mark is , I did a trig offset of 180 which had the ligh flashing exactly at the mark for TDC ( where the marks on the wheel lines up with the mark on case) no ignition table values are in .the rotation of the engine is clockwise ,now the bike in this setting will catch over/ combust a few times while cranking like it wants to stay on ,then just stop catching and I won't get it to do so again until hrs later it will only crank from there on.

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Image showing the reference of the where the tooth that would pass before the missing tooth in relation to the tooth at the sensor using wrench

Screenshot_20201124-081344.png

40 minutes ago, Camal said:

Already sent the trig scope, trouble I'm having is with timing.  the timing light it strobes every time the missing tooth passes the sensor (right?) , however the TDC mark on the stator wheel  which is pretty close to the missing tooth  when it lines up to verify the engine is at TDC compression stroke the cranksensor it self is about 4 or so teeth away from the missing tooth, so I added some marks to see exactly when the strobe light flashes in relation to the TDC mark on the crank cover and  it flashes almost 180 degrees away from where the TDC mark is , I did a trig offset of 180 which had the ligh flashing exactly at the mark for TDC ( where the marks on the wheel lines up with the mark on case) no ignition table values are in .the rotation of the engine is clockwise ,now the bike in this setting will catch over/ combust a few times while cranking like it wants to stay on ,then just stop catching and I won't get it to do so again until hrs later it will only crank from there on.

Wrench head showing where the sensor sits the marks on the wheel H being TDC and I being ignition marks ,in that position H lines up on the TDC mark on the crank case cover ( cover is off and the stator coil an sensor attached inside of it ) and you can see the missing tooth gap right above ,hope this info helps ,so you can help me thanks again.

Screenshot_20201124-081131.png

Screenshot_20201124-081037.png

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Sorry I dont undersatnd if you have a question?  If you need to move the spark in relation to trigger wheel you adjust the trigger offset.

 

9 hours ago, Camal said:

now the bike in this setting will catch over/ combust a few times while cranking like it wants to stay on ,then just stop catching and I won't get it to do so again until hrs later it will only crank from there on.

Are you saying it stops sparking or doesnt have enough fuel?  Do you still have RPM showing when cranking?  Does the timing light still flash?  Have you increased master fuel or tried starter fluid to confirm if it is a fuel problem?

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Yes I am trying to find out if there its something wrong I'm doing because the bike will turn over a few times ,not all the time but would not stay on, then Will stop turning over all together , strobe light still flashes , injector still pulses ,I'll try some starter fluid and see if it's a fuel problem ,it's frustrating cause at one point it's like I'm guessing stuff to try to get the engine running

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