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G4+ Fury, EVOX


h82lose91

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Your pinout shows Ign 5 is the ECU hold power, and Ign 6 is the E-throttle relay.  But your ign outputs in your map are set up opposite to that. 

Can you swap the functions between ign5/6 in the map and see if Aux 9/10 voltage comes right.  You can view Aux 9/10 voltage on the runtimes screen (F12), ecu status tab as below.  Right now you only have 1.1V on that pin.

yKndWyK.png

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Our EvoX trigger mode was originally designed to have the Intake cam connected to Trig 2 and exhaust cam to a DI, your wiring is opposite, but I think it will possibly still work as the pattern is the same on both cams. 

First, on DI 2, change the active edge to rising and turn the pull-up resistor on.

Next I would do a cam angle test on each cam and use the lowest result from each as your offset (trig 2 vvt offset and DI 2 offset).  use a test pulse count of 2 for the ex cam test and a test pulse count of 1 for the intake test. 

Read this help file page for instructions on the cam angle test: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test

If they are still not happy after the offsets are set then we may have to move two pins in the ecu connector to fix it.

 

 

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Exhaust control still looks a bit erratic and slow to me.  I think it might pay to swap those intake/exh position sensor wires to see if it is related to something that is hardcoded into that VVT mode expecting exh to be connected to a DI.  Base timing and vvt offsets will need to be set again after doing so.  

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Actually just noticed in your log the ecu is not happy with something about the trigger too, you will notice dwell time is all over the place and nothing like what is being commanded.  This generally means there is a trigger issue and engine position is being calculated incorrectly.  VVT wont work well when the trigger isnt giving accurate engine position.  

So first step is to swap that int/exh cam signal to see if that solves the trigger problem.  If not please do us a triggerscope. 

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Yeah, looking closer.  Control on the intake cam is a bit erratic.  I notice you have PID setup set to custom, did you try it on the defaults?

It looks like you need to do a TPS calibration as your TPsub shows 97% when your TP main shows 4%.  

And if you set your E-throttle target and idle base pos and idle ign tables to something like below it will probably improve your idle alot.

WCw0iaL.png

1Eemj0R.png

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Im working from the original "base calibration" map I was supplied.  Thats something "they" had set up, maybe because they had the triggers backwards, or the other shenanigans, so nothing surprises me.  I'll recal the TP/AP and tweak the idle control, and set PID to Default.

 

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Changed to default, recal'd DBW, Change Idle control settings.

Idle is much improved and stable.  Early in the log while idling and warming up it randomly stalled, fired right back up.  Probably a fuel issue, will install new lambda sensor tomorrow since its hopefully done killing them! LOL!  Also stalled pulling it in for the night.  Thats at the end of the log.

Trigger Swap, default pid, idle, random idle stall.llg 12_03_20 Trigger Switched, default pid, idle control.pclr

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Unfortunately the VVT is still not controlling well.  You are going to have to go back to custom PID and experiment a little to see if you can improve it - otherwise leave it for the tuner.  

Generally I would set up a time plot like below with cam position and target plotted on top of each other, they should generally follow each other reasonably well.  You can see in this pic below exhaust is not too bad, but inlet is bouncing around +/-5deg when its trying to target 20deg.  This is probably too much proportional. 

Your DBW calibration still doesnt look right.  Are you using the TPS calibration in the E-throttle section where it moves the throttle automatically? 

xfvafnu.png

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Sorry got in a rush last night.  Had just done the AP recal not TPS.  Did that this morning. Looked at log from yesterday and the random stall, I saw fuel pressure drop off.  Not sure what happen there, car has over 1/4 tank of fuel.  Is it possible the vvt issue is related to a questionable oil control solenoid?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok got the intake cam solenoid swapped out and set the vvt pid control to default.  Looks way better to me but want to confirm. BUT..... Im getting a voltage spike at steady state RPM and the ecu is shutting off and back on it appears.  Any ideas on this?  Stock ecu, this isnt an issue. Alt has been check and no issues.

12_18_20 New Intake Cam Solenoid.pclr New Intake Sol, Default VVT, Batt Spike Shutdown.llg

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Can you unplug the ecu and check you have 12V on pin A5 with ignition on.  Sometimes if there is a blown main fuse the ecu will still power up but there is no longer a path for the flyback to be dumped back to the battery so it has an effect of "pumping up" the internal voltage.  

It is a bit fishy that it is not charging though, it is sitting at 12.00V most of the time.

I do know the factory alternators originally have some ECU control but I know of a few guys running them with no ecu control with no reported problems.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

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