Mr_Flibble Posted February 25, 2021 Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 I managed to sort the timing out (problem with the hardware in the end) But now the engine just seems to run then when (I think) it gets to temp the engine just dies like it ran out of fuel. The second issue is my old CPU used to send some sort of signal to the boot/roof ecu and the link 4 doesn't seem to so the roof no longer retracts and I have a constant warning light on my dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 25, 2021 Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 Need more info. What ecu, what car? Has it been tuned? Please attach a log of the stall and a copy of your tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted February 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 It's a link g4+ hc92+ It has not yet been tuned, I just need to get it to run long enough to get the vehicle to the garage. soller.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted February 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 Although this log is a little better, I was adjusting the fuel up as it felt like it died because it was fuel starved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted February 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 Ignore the fuel settings as I greatly increased them to try to make it keep running. It was running fine on 12ms and 8% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 There is something wrong with your MAP sensor or its wiring. It is the MAP dropping to zero which remove all fuel causing it to die. Idle MAP would typically be fairly steady around 30kpa, you can see in the pic below it is bouncing from 0-102 and it is reading 2kpa where my cursor is which makes it stall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted February 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 Ok, thank you so much. I will get that fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted February 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 Ok, thank you so much. I will get that fixed. Also is it my imagination or is it knocking a lot ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted February 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2021 Ok next issue it seems like it is now not getting enough fuel. I have recalibrated the sensor but it made no difference. And my fuel % is set at the max it will go. delsol.pclr and here is the log And I cant upload the log file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted February 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2021 Sorry doesnt matter went back to basics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted March 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2021 Ok the issue with an output from the ecu to the boot loader I dont suppose anyone has come across the issue ? It seems that 2 lines from the ecu connect to the boot on the cars wiring diagram they are referenced as 52 and 53 ( I believe) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted March 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2021 here is the diagram from the workshop manual; I have circled the output I am interested in as this not working totlay removed on of the cars tricks (the main reason I like this car). It is called a trans top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 1, 2021 Report Share Posted March 1, 2021 Since our plug-in ECU is designed for a civic it unlikely uses these pins. The connector/pin numbers on these ecu's are normally labelled A**/B** etc as per pic below. Can you tell me which pins you are calling 52 & 53? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 Hello, Sorry for the delay, It appears that the pin in question is actually A 25 and depending where you look is called IG2 or IGP2 One place even calls it IG1 (according to some service manuals) Why another service manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 5, 2021 Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 A25 is just the main 12V supply to the ECU. IG= Ign. IGP = Ign power. There is another 12V supply on Pin B1 hence IG1 & IG2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Sorry there is also pin 18 which is brought to ground when the bootloader is active, in the normal ecu it causes the ecu to limit itself so you can't drive fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 23, 2021 Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Mr_Flibble said: Sorry there is also pin 18 A18 or D18? We have ign 2 on A18, so it would be best to disconnect that boot loader wire if it is on A18. D18 is labelled "upshift indicator" in our diagrams - I think it may have been a shift light in some type R's. D18 is not connected to anything in our ecu. If you want the "speed limiter" when boot loader is operating like factory then you will have to move that wire to a DI. There is DI6 on the expansion loom or DI3 on pin B9 could be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted March 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Thanks, its A18, it ties directly into the speed sensor to disable the mechanism if you move to fast limiting the speed is something I don't want as there have been a couple of times I could of done without it. Now i just need to setup a resistor or 2 so i dont blow fuses by feeding it directly from the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Flibble Posted March 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 Incase this ever comes up I cut the blue/white wire on A18 then wired a 100k resistor to the main +ve feed and the boot loader now works without warning light and buzzer. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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