3sgte swapped celica wont start

[Adamw]

You should have just done it how I told you to do it since there were less wires moved and less chance of mistakes.  All of the changes you have made didnt need to be done as I said earlier they only needed the function changed in the software and in the spreadsheet I already listed what to assign the auxes to.  The changes you have made should still work, just my aux assignment list will now be wrong. 

[koracing]

FC is fuel pump control and should be set to Aux 7 normally so moving it from 70 to pin 23 makes sense.
FPR is fuel pump speed and usually that relay gets bypassed as it's a common failure causing low voltage to the fuel pump.  So while you could pin this to 57, I'm not sure I would worry.
Yes you do have TVIS so you should enable that to an aux output.

RSO and RSC also change - RSO is idle valve opening, and RSC is idle valve closing on the 3 pin IAC motor.  So your instruction to move the pin 4 to pin 18 isn't exactly correct.  You should move pin 4 to pin 5, and pin 5 to pin 18 unless there's an easy way to reverse the function of the pins in the software I haven't seen. -- <EDIT> RSC is pin 5 on both early and late so ignore this part - I'm not sure why in link's help menu showing pinout it states that this is the idle valve open pin </EDIT>

 

Also not mentioned is that there are two different size pins on the factory connectors and you can't simply move every pin to every other position.  Overall I'm not a fan of this making a customer repin their harness, as well as cut and solder wires or source new pins because of the confusion Link has with 3SGTEs and how they are desgnated.  

Perhpas it would behoove link to add something like this on their site:

Use the following guide to determine which version you require:

1990-1991 Celica Alltrac/GTFour not including RC edition. 1990-1992 MR2 Turbo.  <- V1

1992-1993 Celica Alltrac/GTFour and 1991 RC edition Celica GTFour, all 1993 MR2 Turbo, 1994-1995 USDM MR2 Turbo.  <- V2

1994-1999 Celica GTFour and non-USDM MR2 Turbo. <- V3

[Adamk]

21 minutes ago, koracing said:

Yes you do have TVIS so you should enable that to an aux output.

The previous owner bypassed the tvis, I don't have anything for it anymore.

Also, quick question. Are you sure about swapping Rso and Rsc? They seem like they are in the proper spots based on the diagram. 

[koracing]

36 minutes ago, Adamk said:

The previous owner bypassed the tvis, I don't have anything for it anymore.

Also, quick question. Are you sure about swapping Rso and Rsc? They seem like they are in the proper spots based on the diagram. 

Just rechecked oem pinout diagram and you are correct they should stay how you did them.  I got confused when I looked at Link's help menu and it showed the RSC pin as being the idle valve open pin.
 

[Adamk]

11 hours ago, Adamw said:

You should have just done it how I told you to do it

Sorry, It's just that I began re-pining it before you made the corrections so as I was doing it I went along with what seemed right

2 hours ago, koracing said:

Just rechecked oem pinout diagram and you are correct they should stay how you did them.  I got confused when I looked at Link's help menu and it showed the RSC pin as being the idle valve open pin.
 

Now, I got the car to start and run for a few seconds at best (longest was 30). Here comes the fun part that I didn't tell you guys... My engine is in fact a 5th gen 3sgte that's running on 2nd gen electronics  . I know that a few things are different, injector size, compression, valve duration? I was wondering if I could get some help to get it "running" so I could take it to the nearest tuner. So far I've switched to the st205 base map fuel table and it does help but not too much, its running WAAY too rich (grey smoking pouring out). Any tips on what I should do?Repinn3.1.pclx

Repinn3.1.pclx

[Adamw]

Can you do a short log of it cranking or running if it will.  Your battery voltage was only 6.5V with engine running when you saved that map?  Maybe start by investigating the missing power supply. 

 

[Adamk]

1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Can you do a short log of it cranking or running if it will.  Your battery voltage was only 6.5V with engine running when you saved that map?  Maybe start by investigating the missing power supply. 

 

Cranck w idle log.llgx It idles for a little bit at the end then died. Battery voltage seems good.

[koracing]

If you want I can remote log in to your laptop and help you set up a version of my 4th/5th gen base map that matches your output configuration.

[Adamk]

1 minute ago, koracing said:

If you want I can remote log in to your laptop and help you set up a version of my 4th/5th gen base map that matches your output configuration.

That sounds great, if you can do it. Should I pm you my number? 

[koracing]

Sure.

If you look on my website I have my cell number in the contact section for texting purposes.

[Adamw]

Is it still stock injectors?  If so I would start by doubling that master fuel number.

Ignition dwell time wants to be about half its current settings for running (fine to have more at start up RPM/voltage, but it has way too much when running).

[Adamk]

39 minutes ago, Adamw said:

I would start by doubling that master fuel number.

Are you sure about doubling it? For the st205 map its 9ms vs 15ms for the st185. I would expect it to be lower no?

[Adamk]

58 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Is it still stock injectors?  If so I would start by doubling that master fuel number.

Ignition dwell time wants to be about half its current settings for running (fine to have more at start up RPM/voltage, but it has way too much when running).

The car wouldn't start, the car has 5th gen 3sgte injectors + rail, just making sure we're on the same page  

-50% ign dwell x2master fuel.llgx

[Adamw]

A master of 15-20ms is about normal for a 500cc injector on an engine with a 500cc cylinder.  9ms would be more typical for a 800-1000cc injector.  

You only have 2.5ms dwell at cranking now, I suspect that may be too low due to your low battery voltage.     

Try something more like this so it gets more dwell at cranking speed/voltage:

[Adamk]

20 minutes ago, Adamw said:

A master of 15-20ms is about normal for a 500cc injector on an engine with a 500cc cylinder.  9ms would be more typical for a 800-1000cc injector.  

You only have 2.5ms dwell at cranking now, I suspect that may be too low due to your low battery voltage.     

Try something more like this so it gets more dwell at cranking speed/voltage:

Still nothing, I tried lowering the master fuel to something like 17 and it did idle for a few seconds though.  I attached both of them below.

master fuel 24.llgx master fuel 14.llgx

[Adamw]

I dont really know then, a bit hard to guess with no lambda connected.  I would definately expect master should normally be bigger for stock injectors so it seems you are getting more fuel than the ecu thinks - maybe the fuel press is higher than normal or the injectors are modified/higher flow?

RPM trace is a bit wobbly, is it running on all cylinders?  

 

[Adamk]

5 minutes ago, Adamw said:

I dont really know then, a bit hard to guess with no lambda connected.  I would definately expect master should normally be bigger for stock injectors so it seems you are getting more fuel than the ecu thinks - maybe the fuel press is higher than normal or the injectors are modified/higher flow?

RPM trace is a bit wobbly, is it running on all cylinders?  

 

Oh you just reminded me, I was playing around with the fuel setting (can’t remember off the top of my head) and I set one of the options to low (it was originally on high for when the rpm was over 1800 or something) and the car idle’d better. 

[koracing]

After a few remote sessions, adding an AEM wideband and an autex fuel pressure sensor, and me loading in a modelled fuel calibration based on tunes I've done on similar motors, the car still was not starting.  Tried several different trigger offsets and putting the fuel values up and down and all around.  Then I helped him check to make sure spark was working.  It seemed spotty so new spark plugs went in.  Once we got that working, it would run with the ignition trigger offset set to -180, but he had raw fuel coming out of the exhaust.  Being I had no audio, I could not hear the engine, but it apparently was only running on 2 or 3 cylinders.  Spark plug 1 was like new, spark plug 2 was like new, spark plug 3 was black and sooty, spark plug 4 was nearly all clean but darker than new.  After buzz testing the injectors - nothing was happening on injector 1.  OP Adam found some wiring issue with the injector and fixed it and I ended up putting the offset angle back to zero and he apparently got it running and idling around 13.5:1 was the last message he sent me.