Fordya42 Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 I have a what i think is a miss fire not 100% but the engine certainly does not seem happy, i did have an issue where the car was cutting power at 3/4 to full throttle but found a split pipe from my turbo to actuator, can only presume it over boosted hence the cut in power and popping and banging but now with a new set of plugs and coils it seems to be missing at 6500 rpm, limiter is set at 6900 i have attached a log file can someone look and tell me if they see anything wrong, Thanks Log 2021-06-23 7;50;18 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 Your trigger error counter starts to climb pretty quickly above about 4700RPM so I would say you have a trigger issue. You will need to find someone with an oscilloscope to get a capture of the crank/cam signals to see what is wrong. If you know someone with a G4+ Storm or higher that you could borrow, then another option would be to plug that in and use the built-in scope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordya42 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 lol ok it is a storm, so how the hell do i use the built in scope?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordya42 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 ok so i think i worked it out Trigger Scope Log 2021-06-24 7;57;57 am.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Sorry, not sure why I thought it was an Atom originally, I must have had someone elses map open at the time. So yes we can see the problem in that scope capture, the tooth after the missing tooth gap doesnt crosss the zero volt line, the the ecu will only see 57 teeth instead of 58. This is typically caused by a poor gap design on the trigger wheel. What is the engine? Is it a factory trigger wheel or some aftermarket kit? Do any of the teeth around the missing tooth look damaged? In the pic below the yellow line I have drawn is how the signal should look, but you can see the blue trace underneath doesnt cross the white 0V line like all the other teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordya42 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Fantastic thank you its a focus st engine in an autograss car, its only been an issue since its been rebuilt, it runs a custom crank trigger wheel on the pulley end of the engine due to standard flywheel/pick up making it being to wide for the chassis. I will check the crank sensor and try again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 The common cause of this type of effect is the gap design of the trigger wheel. An article from the help file attached below to explain. If the wheel doesnt look damaged then you could increasing the sensor airgap which may help bring that voltage down. If that doesnt help you are probably going to have to get a new trigger wheel cut with the correct design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordya42 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 so things have got worse i have fitted, new trigger wheel, new sensor new wiring, and still the same, so i decide to update my firmware and now ecu is stuck in boot mode and wont update and wont run the car hellllpppp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordya42 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 ok so firmware has been updated successfully, but still have same issue, really weird as the car has been mapped fine on the rollers, but only had this issue since its been rebuilt ihave now replaced everything except the ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 So the trigger wheel now has the correct design that is shown in my pic above? Can you attach some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordya42 Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 So I have now fitted 3 different trigger wheels, and am now back on the original, the one thing I did that fixed it was to change out the crank sensor for one with a much smaller steel core to it, approx 3mm diameter my original sensor approx 5/6mm, no errors, no miss fire and back on original loom. The original sensor and replacements where all genuine Ford, its now on a magneti marelli sensor, after 14hours of chasing my backside, she's alive and kicking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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