Subaru wrx sti V7 Wastegate %DC - Active map

[Warchild]

Hi Guys

 

Kindly send me an example file with values in this table? The stock base maps are all 0 figures. I have always used a GFB to control boost, but we are now moving it back to ecu control and I want an example of how this table must look please.

[Adamw]

You really just start with zeros and increase the number until the desired boost is reached at each RPM.  For open loop you can usually get away with just a single row.

Below is the table from our V11 WRX.  STI with stock twin scroll and stock boost solenoid, it runs about 240kpa peak and I taper it off to 220kpa above 5000RPM due to the injectors running out of flow.  

[Warchild]

Many thanks Adam! That is how I did it , so I am glad I was on the right path ! It is INSANE how much better the car is now!!

One question ... I finished mapping the car yesterday , and all was perfect , then later on drove again, and then it boosted about 0.3-0.4 less ? I had to again increase the values until it was on the same boost as before. then again later it will over boost because of the extra values I added.

Is it the boost solenoid that needs replacing or what ? The car has a rotate mount Turbonetics turbo, external waste gate and dumpvalve.

Also, I saw a file from another user on here, different car etc, and on his settings he has boost target etc, which I don't have ??? See his attached settings

1.2 BAR MAP.pclr

[Adamw]

1 hour ago, Warchild said:

One question ... I finished mapping the car yesterday , and all was perfect , then later on drove again, and then it boosted about 0.3-0.4 less ? I had to again increase the values until it was on the same boost as before. then again later it will over boost because of the extra values I added.

Often air temp causes the variation.  Log air and water temp and see if the boost variation is related.  Then you can add trims to the IAT comp table to get it more consistent as temperatures change.  

 

1 hour ago, Warchild said:

Also, I saw a file from another user on here, different car etc, and on his settings he has boost target etc, which I don't have ??? See his attached settings

You have a target in closed loop, in open loop you dont have a target.  Still you need to get open loop working well first before changing to closed loop.

[Warchild]

I have disabled IAT completely , so it is not that . I will order a sensor from you guys along with the AFR kit and enable that again later.

I mapped the car with the new AEM water/meth system, so it is not that as well.

The ECT was running in the same ranges ( 85 - 96 degrees ) while mapping . Maybe wastegate leak .. I don't know

What is the reason to keep with open loop boost control or to move to closed loop ? What is the best one and why ?

[Adamw]

4 minutes ago, Warchild said:

I have disabled IAT completely , so it is not that .

Not sure what you are on about, it is the law of physics, the density of air changes with temperature.  You cant just disable a law of physics.  You need to look at if the boost changes when air temp changes, and if it does then fill out the IAT compensation table to correct it.  Usually you need more wastegate DC as air temp increases.  

 

7 minutes ago, Warchild said:

What is the reason to keep with open loop boost control or to move to closed loop ? What is the best one and why ?

Open loop is easy to set up and get decent results within about half an hours work.  Closed loop will give better control and more consistent boost day to day but is much more involved to set up and tune.  I can spend 3 or 4 hrs on the dyno and then still be needing small tweaks afterwards before I have it right, and that is with a fair bit of experience up my sleeve.   

[Warchild]

We misunderstood each other

I know what you meant with changes in IAT yes. That stayed the same (IAT), we at sea level and the weather was the same the whole day. You say that I must fill out the IAT compensation table, but that is what I meant, that I disabled my IAT sensor on my ecu, so filling out the IAT compensation table won't have an effect as I am not reading any IAT ... Or am I STILL missing something LOL

Many thanks for the explanation on the Closed/Open Loop settings, much appreciated. 

[Adamw]

How do you know the IAT stayed the same the whole day if you dont have a temp sensor?  I know in our subaru for example the IAT can change from 30°C to 90°C in about 30seconds of hard driving, obviously not related to the weather at all. 

You need an air temp sensor.

  

 

[Warchild]

Ok lemme make a plane then with that !! will fit the stock Maf sensor, which has the IAT tensor on it close to the intake filter to try and get an average temperature reading 

[Adamw]

You really need a temp sensor in the manifold or close to it - at least after the air has been compressed by the turbo.  Not on for boost control but it is needed if you want the fuel tune to be consistent.

[Warchild]

Yes I agree ! I am making final arrangements with client orders and will order one ASAP ! Will drill a hole just before (10 cm or more) before the AEM water/meth nozzle to get the 100% correct IAT readings in the system.