jason_voyles Posted October 16, 2021 Report Share Posted October 16, 2021 Hello everyone I'm completely new to standalones and ecu tuning in general so bare this in mind. I have been fighting a crank no start issue on this new plug and play unit. I am running 1000cc bosch injectors a dw400 fuel pump I have the regulator set to 40, i do have the pump on its own circuit and switch. I have gone through everything to the best of my ability but i just cant get it to start up or act like it wants to start up. I have checked for spark which I have the timing should be at the stock 15 degrees that it was at on the stock ecu. I have check to make sure all the injectors where working which they were but i did notice that injector 4 was firing in cylinder 1 and cylinder 2 was firing injector 3 and cylinder 3 had injector 2 firing and cylinder 4 had injector 1 it seems like it was flipped on the injector firing but I'm not sure if that is a normal thing considering I haven't touched anything with the fueling but the master number to try and get it to start. sr20 base.pclx TriggerScopeLog.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 16, 2021 Report Share Posted October 16, 2021 Something is wrong with the trigger/CAS. There are patches of teeth missing from trigger 1. There will be no fuel or spark commanded until the ecu gets the correct signals from the CAS. It could be wiring or a faulty CAS. Also, check the ECU connector is fully seated, it is pretty easy to get the bolt tight without the ends of the connector fully home on the nissan ECU's. How were you testing the injectors - using the injector test function? That would suggest there is a wiring issue if the wrong injectors are firing. Did you do the same test with the coils to confirm the right one sparks when tested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2021 I did use the injector test function as well as the test function for the coils, the coils did spark correctly from cylinder1-4 but the injectors where from cylinder 4-1 for some reason. I do have a wiring specialist harness that is fresh and brand new. I will check and make sure that the harness is fully seated and nothing funky is going on if not I will try out another cas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 17, 2021 Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 Ok, your loom is incorrect in the injector wiring in that case. Unfortunately almost every wiring specialties loom I have seen has a error somewhere. But incorrect firing order on the injectors isnt going to prevent it from starting - as long as the coils are good it should still start. You will want to correct those before tuning, but it is not high priority right now. Need to get the trigger happy first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 I have since put a known working cas in and made sure everything was timed right when putting it in. here is the new trigger scope with the new one TriggerScopeLog new.llgx sr20 test.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 17, 2021 Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 It's different, but still not right. Can you unplug the CAS and check you have at least 12V across the 12V & ground wires in the CAS loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 i do have a little over 12v on the 12v and ground wire while cranking voltage drops down to 9.6v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2021 i did switch the dip switches to adm and now it shows trigger 1 shows active with no errors but before on the jdm setting it would get errors, but now i have no rpm speed while cranking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 18, 2021 Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 The dip switches were correct before, change them back. The voltage should be ok. Can you do us a short PC log of it cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 yes read some more info about the switches, i just changed them back and will send a log shortly. PC Datalog - 2021-10-17 5;09;14 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog5.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 18, 2021 Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 Im still most suspicious of voltage. The PC log shows battery voltage initially dips to 6.33V, the ecu then disconnects and when it comes back online half a second later battery voltage has only recovered to about 8.6V. Can you try doing another triggerscope with the spark plugs out. Without plugs it is easier to turn over so voltage wont drop as much, this may help confirm if the issue is the voltage drop or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 new scope with no plugs TriggerScopeLog noplugs.llgx here is also a log with no plugs log with no plugs.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 18, 2021 Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 Nup, it is still showing missing teeth on trigger 1. Batt voltage is still much lower than normal in the log (still drops to 5V at the start of cranking) but even after it recovers to about 10V after a couple of seconds there is no RPM signal so trigger is still not happy. Im not really sure what to suggest next. The electronic hardware that records the triggerscope is separate to the ECU micro which also shows the same thing. So we have two pieces of electronic hardware that are showing us there is a problem with the trigger signal so I think it is likely they are not telling us lies. I would normally suggest it was likely the CAS at this stage but since you have already swapped that it is hard to imagine you would have 2 duds. To take the starter motor load out of the equation, what happens if you pull the CAS out and spin it by hand or with a cordless drill or similar? Do we then get RPM? jason_voyles 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2021 Yeah I’m a little bit confused myself, considering I didn’t have issues on the nistune I was on, I was logging and checking different things all day so the battery could have just been real low and no happy with the constant starts here and there. So I will throw it on the charger and log the first attempt after work tomorrow, if no dice I like your idea with the drill made me laugh a little I’ll definitely have to try that, and if that doesn’t work then we can both safely say I have a wiring issue that I need to trace and or I have another busted cas. If I does show up on the drill method then I guess I can move forward into looking why I have so much voltage drop from the starter, maybe because the engine is brand new and still in the breaking in stage or something of that nature. But I appreciate all the help this far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 so update i have since gotten a new starter from isr and have installed it with new 0 gauge wire and a 100amp breaker but when i go to crank the engine with crank over but then will pop the breaker, i do notice when i flip for fuel it does seem to pop the breaker almost right after, and then will just pop the breaker after with no fuel pump turned on. I have checked all grounds even put a ground from the starter housing to the frame, i have gotten a brand new battery. I am getting cas signal but im not sure if there is not enough fuel or no spark is being commanded i am going to test again for spark while cranking. update 2 i am getting spark perfectly while cranking with the plugs out as well as a cas signal no plugs spark test.llgx also what would be a good baseline for the master fuel for 1000cc injectors crank with plugs in.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 28, 2021 Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 Batt voltage still drops very low, but at least CAS is happy now with plugs in. Master fuel around 10ms will be in the ballpark. 100A breaker is a bit on the light side, really, I've never used a breaker on the starter supply but when I was at MSEL making isolators they were rated for 1000A and we would commonly see 200A in the logs during cranking. If you havent checked base timing yet, try the offset around -85 as a starting point. jason_voyles 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 Thanks so much Adam I will try that after work today! And I’ll size up to a bigger breaker as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_voyles Posted October 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 well thanks so much adam we had a mission success, i got it to start and it runs great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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